Bang & Olufsen Red Line Authentic DIY ABR (Auxiliary Bass Radiators) Successful Repair

25 replies

Design concept failure

As we all know, after about 15 or so years the foam used in B&O & many other manufacturers speakers turns to mush, cones fall away, speakers become seemingly useless.

 A market has arisen providing a readily available supply of replacement foam rubber rings, and appropriate glue that breaths new life into these majestic wonders of 20th century design. This is great, but ABR's (Auxiliary Bass Radiators) are rectangular.

Mushy foam rot on a rectangular bass radiator found on Red Line Bang & Olufsen Speakers

Bang & Olufson speakers seem to suffer badly, and in the case of the Red Line series, the design concept fails completely after about 15-20 years.

A rectangular metal plate supports a foam/rubber material that is glued across a metal diaphragm, it radiates a resonance, as the air contained within is distorted from the traditional drivers to the right of the speaker cabinet. This concept provides a good bass output.

Background

The foam had perished in my newly acquired Red Line 45’s, and after visiting the wonderful B&O fan site, www.beoworld.org members advised that B&O aware of this failing, released a tuned port conversion that sadly is no longer available. So my challenge was to replace the sticky mushy foam with new, perhaps longer life foam. I scoured many DIY shops, building merchants, only managing to find carpet underlay, which is made of a very similar grade of rubber but quilted and attached to a canvas or fabric back.

Fishy Inspiration

Laminate floor underlay also seemed to have similar properties, but alas at only 1mm thick, and quite week, it was no good. Almost giving up I took my daughter to see rabbits at our local pet shop. Eureka!! The foam rubber used to lay at the bottom of fish tanks was perfect, although a little thick, approximately 4-5 mm; it was the best I had found for the purpose. It’s tough, resistant to heat, oil, water obviously, and light, it also happened to be black unlike underlay which is brown or white. So my mini project is off to a good start.

On removing the foam from the plastic I noticed it had properties very similar to memory foam, found in expensive mattress toppers. I am yet to find if this has any additional value but it would certainly enable me to man handle it. It also cuts very well, with a knife gently heating the blade tip, it go’s through like butter. So forming two gaskets was easy. There are several holes so I simply used the end of drill bit, warmed in a candle and then pressed to form holes where required.

 

Template drawn on the rubber/foam gaskets surface then cut using craft knife, drill bits, scissors & candle

To dismantle the speakers I removed the 10 retaining screws at the rear of the cabinets. Carefully prising the fronts away, and removing the green and black wires from the rear terminals. There are 6 cross head screws holding the ABR's metal diaphragms. If you look carefully you can see one end of the diaphragm is narrower, allowing easier removal.

Once removed I vacuumed the old residual foam and lifted the dislodged ABR's from the speakers. Using a credit card! and tooth brush most of the mushy foam was removed from all metal surfaces. Finally I pasted them all with Nitro Mors, left for an hour then rinsed in cold water, wire wool took the remaining stubborn foam/glue off. I placed each part in the oven on high to dry and all the stubborn glue burnt off. You don’t have to do this I am just finicky about preparation, plus its quite dangerous with toxic fumes.

 

Using a credit card! and tooth brush most of the mushy foam was removed

Now the ABR's diaphragms, plates and gaskets are ready for reassembly. I used Araldite Rapid, about £4.99 from Home base. Very strong and tough, I tested an off cut of foam on my steel ruler and left for an hour. It was fine just very slight deformation nothing to worry about, more then enough to support the ABR's.

After cutting the gaskets, I mixed the glue spreading evenly over the ABR's diaphragms, the glue gives you about 4-5 minutes to adjust.

I then placed the foam gaskets onto the ABR's diaphragms. I placed quite a bit of weight on top evenly spread, and left for an hour.

Tricky Rads

The ABR's centre plates (Radiators) proved quite tricky, when aligning to ensure equal space around the edges it was more guesswork than a precise science.  The glue again was applied in a similar pattern to the original shadow left on the metal radiators surface. I carefully placed Weight equally across the surface by placing upturned cups and a flat surface where weight is then applied for an hour.

 

Reassembly is a reverse of above, although be careful when replacing all the screws, if you use an electric driver make certain its torque setting is at about medium, as the cabinets screws can be brittle.

 

 Proof is in the pudding; my authentic repair is almost complete

  

Before & after repair measured frequency levels displayed using Adobe Audition 

 

A fully repaired and beautiful sounding Red Line 45's

Fully reassembled I tested both speakers at various volume levels using a Beomaster 3000, 3500 and Beogram CDX/2. I am personally happy with a good solid bass reflex, perhaps too much deep tone at low volume, only a trained ear would pick up, but as the Redlines tweeters provide such clarity it is a happy balance. I am still on the look out for B&O replacement ABR's so if anyone out there has any or a pair of good RL45/60's drop us a line, thanks to all 😁Beomatt

If you have any questions then you can contact me via Beoworld.

Very well done (and very quickly too I must say).

Regarding the bass performance - if they are stood directly on the floor the bass is definitely more prominent. I think they sound better (and more controlled) on the floor stands - if you don't have them they do crop up fairly regularly on ebay, the RL60 versions are the ones to look out for, the RL140 stands are much too large and won't fit).

There are two styles of RL60 stand, the earlier "double leg" type and a later chrome pole riser type - depending on your taste (the pole types seem to crop up slightly less often).

😁Thanks for the advice, as for the timescale I am used to fast effective repairs goes with my job as an engineer, Beomatt 

Beomatt wrote:

😁Thanks for the advice, as for the timescale I am used to fast effective repairs goes with my job as an engineer, Beomatt 

 

I too am an engineer - my ABR frames are underneath my piano upstairs (and have been for a good while) waiting for me to do something with them. (My RL60's currently have the tuned port conversion)

Stop tickiling the ivorys and repair them or send them to me and I will do them. I have offered my refoaming services to another fellow member, I am going to look around for thinner foam/rubber. If you have any suggestions drop me a line cheers again Beomatt

😁Hey everyone I have found the perfect foam rubber replacement for ABR's Its Neoprene foam on Amazon at about £6.70 incl p&P in various colours A4 sheets at only 1mm thick !! I've ordered some, so if anyone has any spare ABR's out there give me a shout cheers everyone BeoMatt

Here's the link

Pardon me if I appear a bit thick but aren't the ABR's longer than A4?

Yes, the ABR's are longer than A4.
I tried neoprene but gave it up because the required glue is very hard to find
and difficult to handle (very toxic if I remember correctly).
The replacement ABR mats that Anthony Garza in Texas made were extremely precise
repro parts but unfortunately also neoprene. I tried these too - and had to give up.

Martin

Very impressive repair Matt, thanks for sharing the details with us.

 

 

Craig🙂

Dillen - are you saying you don't refoam ABR's anymore or just that you don't use Neoprene?

Beomatt  -

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