There are two set screws and then it screws off.
Make sure to mark EVERYTHING, some of the gears are put together in a special way (coded)
but bears no markings of this, and they need to be put back together in the exact same way.

Martin

EDIT: I noticed the black marks on some of the gears, this is what I mean.
You need to make a similar mark on the edge of the CD tray as this also forms part of the gearing.

Dillen wrote:

There are two set screws and then it screws off.
Make sure to mark EVERYTHING, some of the gears are put together in a special way (coded)
but bears no markings of this, and they need to be put back together in the exact same way.

Martin

EDIT: I noticed the black marks on some of the gears, this is what I mean.
You need to make a similar mark on the edge of the CD tray as this also forms part of the gearing.

There was only one set screw on the inside hole and as stated i already have it loose. Yes i made the index markings, as for the cd tray i have it pulled out to its stop and considered that a good index for the tray gearing.

So it screws off counter clockwise ? Thanks,I will try it.

Indeed it does screw off counter clock wise. I am now trying to remove the large gear wheel by wiggling it and pulling strait up at the same time but it does not want to release.

It lifts straight up and off.
But you MUST mark the tray and gear together.

Martin

Dillen wrote:

It lifts straight up and off.
But you MUST mark the tray and gear together.

Martin

Thanks Martin, it did finally come off. I used an allen wrench as a pry bar gently pushing equally on three side, it was a very thight fit. What was left of the belt was a gummy mess on the gruved wheel, i cleaned it off and have the belt in what i think is the correct position. I never saw where it went so i am just guessing it has to go around the drive wheel bottom. Do i have it right? Also what type of lubrication should i use on the gear wheel faces and studs the wheels go on? Thanks for the quick replys and help,very much appreciated!

David

This comes out from fading memory, but that's not where the belt is supposed to go. In your photo, straight above the grooved pulley, you can faintly see a brass pulley - that is the tray motor and the other side of the belt belongs there 🙂 The plastic gears take care of the rest.

tournedos wrote:

This comes out from fading memory, but that's not where the belt is supposed to go. In your photo, straight above the grooved pulley, you can faintly see a brass pulley - that is the tray motor and the other side of the belt belongs there 🙂 The plastic gears take care of the rest.

Ok i see it now thanks, now i just need the lubrication question answered and i will put her back together. Thanks Mike

David

Oh yes, sorry, I noticed your question but forgot to answer. The optimal lubricant would be silicone grease (NOT silicon paste, which is a totally different substance!). I have personally used lithium grease which you can find in auto parts stores (the white kind in "toothpaste" tubes). It's a good all-around lubricant for these bigger caliber sliding and rotating parts you will find in many B&O kit. Sewing machine oil for the little parts.

In a pinch, anything that isn't too thick but won't evaporate either, and especially is not corrosive, can be used. This gearing is worth the "right stuff" though as it is hard work to redo it.

I agree with Mika.

Regarding lubricants, the most important thing is to clean off all the old
dried lubricants since this is what brakes the whole mech.
A combination of IPA, cloth, pipe-cleaners, cotton buds and patience will usually do.
The brass rods can sometimes hold on to the dried stuff very stubbornly
and you may have to use a little steelwool (gently) to get to the
bottom of it. The brass rods should be all shiny.
When cleaned, it's quite common to see it able to run fine dry but
because of the stress that exists on some of the gears, I would also
recommend a little (thin) silicone grease.

Martin