Congrats and nice find :) Yes the led's fail in the displays and so you end up replacing the actual chips with SMT LED's. Very fiddly and not worth doing one or two you need to do the whole display really! Finding the correct colour of red led is important otherwise the displays look orangy. Then you have to match the brightness, as the old leds are not very efficient and new much brighter... Good fun :)

I keep promising to finish my 8000 referb on here so that is what I will do next and you will be able to see the processes involved. A full referb is a good 2 days of hard work!

Oh and the control will work fine your 6000!

Thanks for the reply. Thus far, I'm not sure to what extent the display is working. I plugged it in (without any speakers connected), and the case seems to be more along the lines of the unit refusing to come out of standby mode. When first plugged in, the decimal point on the leftmost display was the only one lit, though the MANUAL light was also lit. Toggling the manual/automatic switch had an effect on it, as did moving the stereo/mono switch for the MONO indicator. Pressing the buttons on the front panel had no effect The tuning meter registered a solid '2' regardless of how the tuning knob was moved. I unplugged it and plugged it back in, but since then, the only sign of life is the aforementioned decimal point, as the other lights (as well as the meter) now do nothing. Any ideas? Thanks in advance!

-Adam

Great find ! Never seen one in the flesh .

Hi Step1,

I read your comment about "orangy" LEDs...what is your favorite SMD LED for the display refurb? Thanks!

Adam: Congrats on your find! And I thought  I was lucky when I got a 8000/9000/8000 set for $150 from craigslist a couple years ago...;-)

valve1 wrote:

Great find ! Never seen one in the flesh .

From what I understand, the Beolab 8000 and 6000 System components are more common than you might expect. They were the cream of the B&O crop, so-to-speak, and an outstanding set of components by many standards. Even though I'm in the US, I've managed to acquire a matching set of 8000 components (two times over in the case of the Beogram 8000 and Beocord 8002), along with a Beomaster 6000. My guess is that the rarest component from the series is the Beogram 6000 (type 5751), which was little more than a radial-tracking Beogram 2402 with a simple Datalink interface, and therefore didn't match the components it was supposed to match!

-Adam

HarryPierce wrote:

Adam: Congrats on your find! And I thought  I was lucky when I got a 8000/9000/8000 set for $150 from craigslist a couple years ago...;-)

Yeah, it's been an odd, strange journey through the 8000/6000 series for me. Started with my first Beogram 8000, a $100 swap-meet find nearly three years ago. Last year, a friend of mine sent me a Beocord 8002 he had lying around for the cost of shipping (suffered some damage during the journey, which has been repaired). Earlier this year, my eBay score happened, netting me a Beomaster 6000 and another Beogram 8000 (both non-working) for all of $70. Now, I've completed my collection of 8000 series components with this latest find. All I need to track down now is a pair of Beovox MS150s or equivalent; I have yet to see any B&O speakers for sale in my area, but who knows.

-Adam

I agree, the Beovox MS150 would be a nice addition to a 8000 line-up!! Hope you will get some soon. 

Ah ok well start by checking the reset circuit - there is a critical adjustment here. Also check the 5V power supply and associated capacitors.

AdamAnt316 wrote:

Thanks for the reply. Thus far, I'm not sure to what extent the display is working. I plugged it in (without any speakers connected), and the case seems to be more along the lines of the unit refusing to come out of standby mode. When first plugged in, the decimal point on the leftmost display was the only one lit, though the MANUAL light was also lit. Toggling the manual/automatic switch had an effect on it, as did moving the stereo/mono switch for the MONO indicator. Pressing the buttons on the front panel had no effect The tuning meter registered a solid '2' regardless of how the tuning knob was moved. I unplugged it and plugged it back in, but since then, the only sign of life is the aforementioned decimal point, as the other lights (as well as the meter) now do nothing. Any ideas? Thanks in advance!

-Adam

Think they are HP's but would have to check. You need something that emits a similar wavelength to the originals, about 650nm or so.