Remote Mains Switch Problem

28 replies

I have two remote mains switches that have ceased to function. They will turn on and apply power to the outlet if the bypass button is pushed, but will not work in automatic mode.

Ive opened one up, and it appears that the main relay is used for both modes. That kind of eliminates it as the issue, though I thought that would be the culprit. 

Anyone have experience repairing these? Any advice appreciated, thanks.

I'm sorry I can't help you Jeff, but I would like to know more myself.

This is what you are referring to correct?

Location: San Francisco

I'm an automotive audio and acoustic engineer. I design loudspeakers and full sound systems for new automobiles. I also dabble with studio, consumer and pro audio projects from time to time.

That's it. The failure mode on both is that they stop switching the power outlet on in response to the trigger voltage from the receiver, etc. but work when you turn on the push button. 

Live opened up one of mine, thinking it might be the main relay, but it appears that the on button doesn't switch the power directly bypassing the relay as I thought it might, but applies a switching signal to the same relay, so obviously the main relay is working. 

Likely culprits seem to be either a single transistor in the switched path or this small rectangular black box that I haven't figured out what it is yet. I guess one of the caps could be bad, need to dig out my ESR meter and test them. 

 

 

Sorry for yet again not being any help 😁 There is practically no info on these boxes anywhere on the net. I'm trying to workout whether or not I can integrate one of these guys.

What is the input voltage for the trigger? 

Location: San Francisco

I'm an automotive audio and acoustic engineer. I design loudspeakers and full sound systems for new automobiles. I also dabble with studio, consumer and pro audio projects from time to time.

It uses the Powerlink trigger voltage, but I can't remember what that is right now. Originally I think these were designed to operate off an older Beomaster, they use an adapter for Powerlink. A wire comes off the Powerlink plug and ends in a female small power plug such as you'd find on a wall wart power supply. 

I have to assume most of these for sale on eBay and such are probably also broken despite what the sellers say about testing them, since they appear or work if you just try the on button. 

Ive got mine apart, will take a picture and post it tonight. 

Well, here's a picture of the guts,or would be if I could figure out how to post it.

Anyway, the small black box is an optoisolator, which appears to be an obsolete and unavailable part. So, it that's the issue, and I suspect it is, I appear to be SOL. Unless I can find something that would work. There's other possible issues, bad resistors, caps, transistor, but it will take a bit more testing to isolate (pun) the issue.

If it is the optoisolator I'm screwed.

 

Jeff wrote:
If it is the optoisolator I'm screwed.

No you're not. I'm sure some generic part would work, but it would help to know what the original part is...

It's an Isocom H24A2. All the listings for it seem to be zeroed out in the online catalogs. Not sure what would be a replacement, it was hard to tell from the listings but there has to be something I hope.

I found the datasheet

I have no real reason to think it's toast, it just seemed like the most likely component from looking at the others. I know the main relay is OK, because that's tripped for both the auto and manual on functions from the way it's wired.

This will undoubtedly take more digging. But, if I manage to fix it I'm sure it will be of interest to others in the future. These seem to be odd little boxes.

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