Nice system - well worth £50.

1. Belt for the CD50 clearly needed but these are temperamental machines - I will be surprised if this works!

2. BC5000 - New belts again - much more likely to work!

3. May need the springs playing with. A little bend upwards wouldn't hurt! See if you can work out where the impact point is. Well worth fixing - a superb deck.

Is the S45-2 the ones I gave you? They have rubber surrounds so should not need refoaming. The phase link unit is heavily doped but are normally fine so I am surprised they need any more attention than new capacitors. These are superb speakers and are always worth fixing - in my view better sounding than S55s.

Certainly try changing belts - even I can do that! - but don't be too surprised if the CD50 needs more work. 

Thanks Peter - yes, the sound on the record deck seems amazing to my untrained ears, even with the turntable scrape...  it's a little bit discoloured and the perspex is a little scarred but I seem to remember reading on here that WD40 is good for cleaning the aluminium and Brasso does a good job of sorting out the perspex?

I might have a go at the springs tomorrow.

The speakers I'm meaning to refoam are S45s that I bought off eBay a few months back - they're teak ones, as opposed to the rosewood S45s you gave me which still sound fantastic. 

I got the teak S45s so they'd match the Beomaster 2400 and Beogram 2402 you gave me... now I think I'll pair the rosewood S45s with the 5000 system if I get round to the refoaming.

Hey, the master control panel works and everything! 😁

It is just about the biggest remote control in the world ever, though...  would it be possible to control it using a Beo4 or a Beolink 1000 instead, or are they different systems?

DrewSavage wrote:

It is just about the biggest remote control in the world ever, though...  would it be possible to control it using a Beo4 or a Beolink 1000 instead, or are they different systems?

Completely different, unfortunately. Look for a

tournedos wrote:

DrewSavage wrote:

It is just about the biggest remote control in the world ever, though...  would it be possible to control it using a Beo4 or a Beolink 1000 instead, or are they different systems?

Completely different, unfortunately. Look for a Terminal 5000 if you want a hand held remote for the system (I think I just saw a member selling one in the sales section - I need one too, but not that much 😕 ).

There used to be a converter product that allowed using Beolink 1000 compatible remotes, but fat chance finding it anywhere...

Cheers!  Yes, I agree... I've got a spare Beo4 at the moment and Beolink 1000s seem to be pretty cheap on eBay so I was really looking for a quick and easy solution.  A Terminal 5000 would be handy if one fell into my lap but at the moment I think it makes just as much sense to either use the master control panel or just walk across the room to the unit.  Particularly considering the size of my new flat...

Re:- the scraping turntable. Are the transport screws fully released?

Chris.

PS, am I right in assuming this was the "Last chance" ebay sale that was going to the tip if no one bought it?

There's a

I'll limit my input to what I've worked on 😐 and know well:

1. The BM5000 - definitely replace the bias trimpots, if nothing else - that will help prevent catastrophical problems in the future. And adjust the bias currents.

If you're feeling adventurous, browse this - it may give you incentive to get started!

Medogsfat wrote:

Re:- the scraping turntable. Are the transport screws fully released?

Chris.

PS, am I right in assuming this was the "Last chance" ebay sale that was going to the tip if no one bought it?

There's a link on ebay UK at present.

Spot on about the last chance - and cheers for the heads-up!

I've double-checked the transport screws and had a bit of an upward bend of the springs and the turntable seems to be floating perfectly.  Putting my ear to the unit, it seems that the scraping noise is coming from the front left, where the drive belt goes from the turntable and vanishes under the casing.

Could it be as simple as something in there needing lubricating in some way?  And if so, is it easy to get the casing off without making everything go horribly wrong?

I'd still put the scraping sound down to the platter height not being correctly adjusted. There isn't really anything that could cause this near the motor assembly (unless the pully has worked its way up/down the motor shaft which is pretty unlikely, not impossible though as it is a push fit).

When adjusted to the correct height the platter top surface should sit approx' 2mm proud of the aluminium surround.

Chris.

Access to the internals is fairly easy & is gained by removing the aluminium top plate/platter surround. There are 2 screws underneath to the left & right hand sides of the front edge to remove which allows you to remove the top plate. You must remove the platter first & take care not to damage the tonearm (which goes without saying). There is also the start switch to look out for which is simply slotted into the front facia on the right hand side - there is also a multiplug to pull for the control buttons. The top plate comes off by lifting the front edge & pulling slightly forward to release where it sits under the lid hinge at the rear.