The CX100 drivers, as most other speaker drivers used by B&O, are custom produced so the answers are:

1. You don't find cheap replacements anywhere. They don't exist.
2. You can still buy new original drivers from B&O but they are not particularly cheap.
3. You can have your drivers prof. repaired, that will be the cheapest method.

4. A membership grade of minimum silver is required to place sales/wanted ads so this post will
be deleted shortly.

Martin

And I must add:

It is possible to find cheap replacement drivers that fits in size...Sadly a lot of people has done this over the years...😠

Don't do this at home kids...   You ruin the sound of the speakers...

As Dillen said -buy originals or get the old ones refoamed.

I refoamed my cx50's and it was simple to do, so give it a go

Cheers Nick

I've just refoamed a pair of CX100's and 50's at the weekend.  The first I've done and it was much easier than I thought - messy getting the old foam and glue off but it has been well worth it.  They play really clearly and sound great now.  Go for it.

Dave.

Quite easy isn't it?

Did you do the shimming as well?

Leslie wrote:

Quite easy isn't it?

Did you do the shimming as well?

Of course he shimmed, its the only way to do it properly😂

Hush Soren, let the guy speak😎

Nick said it was 'simple, I said it was 'easier than I thought'.  Now, without really wanting to get into huge discussions and potential disagreements about the necessity of shimming - NO, I didn't shim.

For every professional speaker repair expert who says shimming is vital, there is another who says that it is not necessary - UNLESS, there is obvious physical damage to the cone, voice coil, spider.  Normally, the 'rub method' should suffice - which is the method I used and have had 100% success.  I have gradually cranked up the volume from my Beocenter 9000and played very bass heavy music with no indication of distortion/rubbing so am satisfied with the performance of my refoamed speakers.  I haven' got equipment to generate 10 hertz signals to pre-test them.so rely on my hearing and fingertip sensitivity alone.

For some, this won't be enough and they may prefer the almost guaranteed shimming method.  If the foams are stretched during fitting - this isn't guaranteed either according to some refoamers once the shims are removed. It's a matter of personal choice, time availability, aptitude of the person refoaming or indeed the absolute necessity of shimming.

Yesterday I read about a professional speaker repair guy who refoamed a speaker and there was a slight rub once the glue had set-up (noticeable when played).  He simply turned the speaker in the cabinet by 180 degrees and the speaker has performed flawlessly for over 18 years. 

For the next refoming I do, I may well shim to see how much more work is involved and to see if I can tell any differences in performance - but with my 53 year old hearing, I doubt it now!

Dave.

Dave Farr wrote:

For every professional speaker repair expert who says shimming is vital, there is another who says that it is not necessary - UNLESS, there is obvious physical damage to the cone, voice coil, spider.  Normally, the 'rub method' should suffice - which is the method I used and have had 100% success.

I guess it has most to do with what kind of drivers you are refoaming. The CX series is a popular entry level job, because they are always broken and new drivers usually cost more than the speakers did. They are also small and have forgivingly large tolerances, so they aren't that difficult to get done. Same with Penta midranges. This may create a false sense of confidence and lead to disappointment once you try to do some bigger bass drivers from say, M and S series or RL140 without shimming.

The big issue is finding good quality foams. After refoaming, my CX100 and CX50 pairs sounded quite unimpressive, which is why they didn't end up in regular use.