In some cases, the break is between the coil and the solder tab. A fairly easy repair.
If the break is inside the coil, a new diapraghm must be fitted. I have never done this myself in this type of tweeter.

Martin

Martin

Thank you for that....I will advise the fellow accordingly, If he chooses I will attempt the solder tab method, if its a diaphragm replacement I will suggest he looks for  replacement tweeters. I will chronicle the experience if it develops into an exercise.

Regards Craig

Hi Martin I see your name mentioned in nearly every thread.

 

I am the guy who needs his Beovox S75 fixing, it is just one tweeter that is dead the rectangle shape one.

 

There is no brand name on it but from my online research I'm assuming it is a Audax / Peerless or Seas, does anyone know which one it is? Maybe I can just purchase a replacement of ebay.

 

I can attempt a repair as I have nothing to loose I can unscrew the tweeter how will I identify a break between coil and solder tab will it be visible?

 

My last tweeter repair resulted in me being unable to correctly line the coil and magnet back correctly!

 

But in this situation I have nothing to lose.

The tweeter is a Peerless KO10DT 4 Ohm.
Used in Beovox S60 and Beovox S75.
Note that most of the tweeters you'll find of this type are 8 Ohm and not suitable.

Martin 

 

I got lucky and found that tweeter for £15!

 

Now I got bigger hi end equipment but more faults to deal with.

 

Please see my post for my Beogram 4002 tone arm is not moving.

 

And another post for my Beovox M75 decayed woofer surrounds, do you know where I can get the replacements?

 

Thanks very much for helping me!

Hi,

Instead of starting a new thread:

I'm doing a small resto job on a set of S75s, and it's looks like they've seen a small amount of moisture* - not directly, but enough for a what appears to be spots in the paint on the tweeter (both in fully working order). Before I break anything - is it possible to separate the pieces so I can give the front plate a quick do-over with some fine grit sandpaper and a couple coats of black?.

Thought I'd better ask before I break something ( :

Cheers, and thanks.

* another sign of moisture was a bit of "fungus" on the magnets. Strangely enough, only on the tweeters - nothing to see on any other driver nor on the cabinets which looks more than decent.

Just adding a picture.

https://imgur.com/CCczFmO.jpg

It looks like the leads for the tweeter are embedded into the grooves on the face plate, so should not be separated.

Yeah. That's my thinking as well, so another plan has been cooked up - I'll keep you posted ;)

And thank you!