BeoVox 2600 Refurbishment

67 replies

Hello BeoWorld,

A while ago I sourced a pair of BV2600's as an added speaker alternative to my vintage BeoSystem. This particular model of speaker does not seem to be very popular in the Beo-World and after a quick and informal survey of you, the members, you indicated that I should indeed publish a refurb thread on the 2600.

With some spare time this evening I am going to kick off such a project starting with the crossover. I am going to try and post this as I progress tonight to keep you lot entertained. So, without further delay, sit back, relax crank up your music and enjoy the show!

Location: San Francisco

I'm an automotive audio and acoustic engineer. I design loudspeakers and full sound systems for new automobiles. I also dabble with studio, consumer and pro audio projects from time to time.

To start off this project right, I have sourced ALL of the necessary parts before the project.

Here is the equipment. For those of you that have a pair of 2600s and want to refresh the crossover, you will need 25uF and 8uF capacitors as well as a 2.2ohm resistor.

I have sourced the following:

(2) 25uF 400VDC +/-5% Solen Cap
(2) 8.2uF 250V ERSE Pulse X Cap (8.0 not available)
(2) 2R2 10W Lynk Resistor

I ordered the above (as well as many others..) from Meniscus Audio. I have to give them honorable mention as they have yet again exceeded my expectations in customer service. I will admit I ordered relatively cheap components and the 8.2uF cap I originally selected (a unit that cost $0.80) was out of stock. They did not keep me waiting and instead substituted that one for a unit that cost roughly 6 times more. A small gesture, but one worth mentioning as I will not have to wait for components that are out of stock as I would if I were shopping anywhere else!

Also, the guys at Meniscus are nice enough to include candy. I have already eaten almost all of it and there is one left, saving this for later!

On the far right are a pair of DIN2 plugs to re-terminate the speaker wires with as the original owner did not use a BeoMaster with this pair of 2600's.

Location: San Francisco

I'm an automotive audio and acoustic engineer. I design loudspeakers and full sound systems for new automobiles. I also dabble with studio, consumer and pro audio projects from time to time.

First off is the easy part, removing the frets. I have to say, these are the easiest B&O frets to remove!! Easy enough to remove with one hand! They are attached with some super strength hook and loop and will require some strength. Don't be afraid to apply your strength, the fret is mostly made up of metal and will take the abuse.

Location: San Francisco

I'm an automotive audio and acoustic engineer. I design loudspeakers and full sound systems for new automobiles. I also dabble with studio, consumer and pro audio projects from time to time.

And here they are! I have high expectations for these speakers, they have all the right ingredients - a giant tweeter, woofer (with a rubber edge roll!!!!) and the most solid cabinets I have ever owned - 0.75" all around! 

Location: San Francisco

I'm an automotive audio and acoustic engineer. I design loudspeakers and full sound systems for new automobiles. I also dabble with studio, consumer and pro audio projects from time to time.

And here is our port of entry, the woofer screws.

Location: San Francisco

I'm an automotive audio and acoustic engineer. I design loudspeakers and full sound systems for new automobiles. I also dabble with studio, consumer and pro audio projects from time to time.

A word of warning about the fasteners, they are aluminum. As a consequence, they are very soft and will be easy to damage, so be gentle removing and replacing these.

EDIT: Aluminum? I must have been properly tired or something to miss the giant spot of RUST! Aluminum - yeah right. Erm..

Location: San Francisco

I'm an automotive audio and acoustic engineer. I design loudspeakers and full sound systems for new automobiles. I also dabble with studio, consumer and pro audio projects from time to time.

Here is the woofer out of its home. It seems the B&O engineers were kind enough to spec a long enough amount of wire so that removing and replacing the woofer would not require desoldering the connections causing a large hassle.

Location: San Francisco

I'm an automotive audio and acoustic engineer. I design loudspeakers and full sound systems for new automobiles. I also dabble with studio, consumer and pro audio projects from time to time.

Show your tools Evan, there are folks out there that never done this, and want to learn, besides this is the first bench thread for a long time, we are all watching 😂

Location: Mexico city

Retired
Printing machine technician
Restored various 1960-70 items
Rock and Roll music
Collecting Vinyl
Restored Jukebox Wurlitzer 1050

Inside the cabinet you will find enough stuffing to fill a mattress!

Location: San Francisco

I'm an automotive audio and acoustic engineer. I design loudspeakers and full sound systems for new automobiles. I also dabble with studio, consumer and pro audio projects from time to time.

I hate that gray stuff, be careful with the glass fiber, it yucks if on your skin, keep it well into the bags.

Location: Mexico city

Retired
Printing machine technician
Restored various 1960-70 items
Rock and Roll music
Collecting Vinyl
Restored Jukebox Wurlitzer 1050
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