Beomaster 900K & a novice needing help

79 replies
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Hi there everybody,

 

this is one of those "just registered and the first post is a help request" situations. Sorry for that. But i'm no complete stranger to this forum, and as a lurker have searched and read everything i can find during a last week or so, but without result. I'm no *real* amateur of B&O, nor a collector, just someone appreciating the craftmanship and beauty of their work. I'm rather a vintage design buff. These things are just a thing of beauty to look at, just as a Polaroid sx-70 (just one example) is a thing of beauty to look at. I've especially always had a soft spot for the Beomaster 900 & 1000 variations, and wanted to get me one one day, but as it was not an obsession, time went by. Then recently i had the opportunity to get one 900K for the cheap, and so... i got it.

And here's why i'm here.

 

It doesn't work. I'm no technician, but am handy. I've already repaired and built stuff, as long as it's mechanics, but am at loss with electronics when no direct instructions are given, and here it's clearly *way* over me. I've downloaded and studied all the service manuals and schematics from the web but am just illiterate with electronics. I called the local B&O shop, but to my disappointment their prices already *begin* at a bit expensive, without any idea as to how high it might end up with. And this without knowing if it's going to be a complete overhaul or just one capacitor. And so i wanted to ask you specialists, if there might be something symptomatic with these models that i could try as a first aid before writing it off as definitely needing *professional* help. You know, testing this, measuring that, with those few components that are the most often the cause of failure in these models ?

 

Should you accept, i'll describe the patient a little to begin :

so it's a 900K with the dark grey grille in front. On the serial number sticker at the back, it's marked "S 290 BEOMASTER 900 K 919369". It is a model with the stereo decoder installed. It also has - and i don't know if it has any meaning, but i've seen different models so here goes - the voltage range of "150, 220, 130, 250, 110, 240". The exterior is in quite nice condition, nothing indicating bigger shocks. The knobs are all the heavy metal ones. Didn't come with any documents, outside or inside. That's for the model identification.

 

Symptoms :

does nothing. When i plug it, nothing happens. No sound what-so-ever. When opened, nothing seems broken or burnt to the eye. Nothing gets hot with time when plugged to the wall. All the lamps (well, all three of them that i've found) are burnt. I've tried with one replacement lamp and it doesn't light. The three fuses (is that all ?) seem all right, even though they were a bit covered in dirt (cleaned since).

 

And that's that. I've no idea as to what to try next. So if any of this inspires any of you, i'd be grateful for any advice, or be more than happy to measure or test any suggestions that you might have. I have a simple multimeter for testing. I can take photos if needed, but can't do extreme close-ups for a few days since i've not my camera with me (will be with an iPhone in the time being).

 

So there, thank you so much in advance for *any* assistance you might be able to provide, i'll sure appreciate all the attempts.

 

Sebastian.

Welcome to Beoworld !

What a nice radio !
The first thing would be to check if there is any voltage anywhere.
I suggest measuring AC voltage on the rectifier primary first.
Then DC on the secondary side. Let us know the results.

The dial lamps are good indicators for voltage and transformer function
so I suggest you make sure two good ones of correct wattage are mounted.
The stereo indicator lamp is not important right now but will also need
to be of correct wattage when a new is fitted (different from the dial lamps).

Martin

Welcome from me as well, and congratulations! A 900K was my first B&O piece as well 🙂

I'd add that you need to either measure the fuses or replace them with new ones - those glass tube fuses can be blown (or corroded) even if they seem OK. Sometimes the wire breaks when you remove them and the end cap gets twisted a little.

You have a rather early example there as the type designation is still S290. It got the normal four digit type designations in a year or two after introduction I think.

Hope it will be a simple fix!

Hi,

thanks so much for your quick replies, and your warm welcome.

I started by measuring the fuses, and what do you know, i should've certainly done it even before posting here ; the second mains fuse (the 0,25A one with a little "springy" wire), even though perfect visually, is dead. The other two are fine. So i'm off to try and find a new one right away. I'll try and source the correct lamps at the same time (if i get it right, that's two 6,3V for dial, and one of minimum 19V for stereo).

 

Will report ASAP.

Thanks again.

 

Sebastian.

Ok, so with a new fuse in place, when plugged to electricity, the SP1446 regulator transistor at the back gets extremely hot within seconds. I disconnected the unit immediately. Now what does this say ?

[EDIT] In the meantime, i looked a little closer, and the red wire leaving from the SP1446 has melting marks (seen how it gets hot, no surprise) [EDIT]

Sebastian.

Most likely a short somewhere.
Let's have an ohm reading (unpowered of course) across capacitor 514.
It's a 64uF electrolytic capacitor sitting at the rear center of the amplifier board, providing
a good and easy place to check amplifier voltage, easy to measure across from the solder side.

Martin

Dillen wrote:
Let's have an ohm reading (unpowered of course) across capacitor 514.

On the scale of 200, i get a reading of 00.3 (which means to me it's not shorted, right ?)

[EDIT] In fact no, it's exactly the contrary, i believe. It should go up progressively if it was working, right ? Told you i was useless in electronics. [EDIT]

I also had the time to mess around in my distress, and desoldered the SP1446 with its resistor to measure them, for what it's worth :

- the resistor = 13 ohm (i couldn't find it's supposed value in the schematics, what should it be ?)

- SP1446 (scale 200k) : C-E = 00.5 / C-B = 00.7 (no idea if i did that right ?)

 

Sebastian

OK, now desolder one pin of capacitor 514, lift it out of the board and measure again, this time we need two readings;
On the board tracks and directly across the capacitor.

Martin

Ok, i desoldered the minus (-) leg.

Across the capacitor = slowly raises to infinity (so now it means it was ok then).

I'm not sure what you mean by "on the board tracks", but if it means the solder joint of the leg that is still soldered (+) on the underside of the board, and directly the desoldered leg, then that's the same (raises to infinity), or if you mean the solder joint of the soldered (+) leg and the now desoldered empty (-) point on the board, well, it gives zero.

 

I'll be making a go at the local electronics store today to get the lamps, is there anything i could get that could be suspect and would be better off changed anyway ?

 

Thanks for your patience, i'm not really making this any easier now am i...

Sebastian

OK, you can solder back the capacitor 514 now. It seems to be OK.

The output stage transistors could be worth checking too but I doubt the fault to be here because the resistance is
so close to zero ohms. I would expect to see the emitter resistors reflected as the minimum ohmic value if an output stage is shorted.

You can desolder one side of the large power supply filter capacitor and measure across it like you did capacitor 514.

Martin

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