BeoMaster 5500 - A hot topic!

24 replies

Hi everyone.

As I mentioned in another thread, one of my acquaintances has a BeoMaster 5500 and a MCP5500 that are acting up a bit, so he asked me, if I wanted to take a look at it. I told him about the usual problems with dried out electrolytic caps and bad trimmers, so we agreed that it was probably best to give it a complete overhaul.

He had told me, that there was a humming sound in the speakers and that the BM would turn off by itself quite often. After he had dropped the BM and MCP off at my place, I hooked a pair of speakers up to the BM and fired it up. There was clearly some humming, and it sounded like the humming from the BM was being amplified through the speakers. I unplugged the speakers to listen to the BM, and it was indeed humming by itself. I turned the BM off again and unplugged it from the mains. It was here I realised how hot the heatsink had gotten. I only had the BM turned on for a couple of minutes, but the heatsink was very hot, so something was clearly wrong!

I had made some initial research on the BM5500, and at some point I found link on Beocentral describing that high frequency noise in the preamplifier could make the power amplifier overheat badly, so that was definitely something I wanted to look at, as I had a feeling the overheating wasn’t just caused by a pair of trimmers that had gone out of spec.

I got the BM on the workbench today to make some measurements and tests to give me an idea of what was going on. I took the cover off first, as I wanted to measure the idle current. I noticed that the screws for the tuner board were loose, so it could seem someone has been in here before.


I slowly increased the voltage on the variac until it reached 220V. Everything was looking fine, so I turned the BM on. Idle current and power consumption raised quite a bit, but since the idle current must be measured with the volume at 00, I turned it down to that. With the volume at 00 the I got a measuring of 21 mV between TP200 and TP201, which is 10mV more than specified which isn't all too bad.

Power consumption at this point was 220V x 0.17A ~ 40W. Heatsink was staying cold. 


I then increased the volume to 02 which more than doubled the power consumption (220V x 0.42A ~ 90W)! 

I then looked at the idle current. I had to press the '1000' button to get a useful reading. The idle current had tenfolded so it was 200mV now!

The heatsink was getting hot quite fast when the volume was more than 00. I noticed a strange thing when playing with the volume. At 08 it would use 120W but at 10 it would drop to 80W. This was in fact the case for the whole volume scale; power consumption would increase and then drop again for every few steps. I could hear a slight change in the hum when the power consumption dropped. I turned the BM off again and cut the power.

Next step was to try with 3P22 disconnected. Power consumption dropped to 35W with that disconnected and idle current was measured to 18mV. Naturally changing the volume wouldn't change anything now, as the power amp wasn't getting any signal from the preamp. 

Since the power amp seems to be OK, the next step will be to see, if adding a 100nF 63V cap to the B-E junction of 2TR8 as described on Beocentral will cure this problem. 

/Dennis

Dennis wrote:
With the volume at 00 the I got a measuring of 21 mV between TP200 and TP201, which is 10mV more than specified which isn't all too bad.

It's more than double the specified value. I'd suggest you rectify that before adding extra caps anywhere.

The 10 extra mV across the two emitter resistors clearly isn't the source of the overheating problem as I ruled that out by disconnecting 3P22. The heatsink was cold as long as the volume was at zero with 3P22 connected and all the time with it disconnected. Besides that, Martin wrote here that he sets the idle current to 8mV across one of the emitter resistors, so it really isn't that far off. 

The Beocentral page was actually linked from a blog owned by a Danish guy who also repairs old B&O equipment, and he had the same problem with a BM5500 and solved it by adding the 100nF cap, so I think it's a general BM5500 problem. 

More will come when I've ruled out the overheating problem. If adding the 100nF cap doesn't solve the problem, I'll have to dig out my dads old oscilloscope from the back of closet. ❓

/Dennis

Double post.

Replace the small (10uF and 22uF) caps near the voltage regulators.
They lose their filter properties, introducing noise on the voltage rails to the preamplfier.
In severe cases the noise is easily audible, often "digital"-sounding and changing in character
depending on the volume and tonecontrol setting (and at a volume unrelated to the volume setting).  

Martin

@Martin; Thanks, will change them first then when I get back to it later this evening. Do you think, that it would be a good idea still to add the 100nF like the four 220nF capacitors C215, C216, C415 and C416 were added by B&O to stabilize the power amp? And do you know, if there were made other corrections in the circuits during production? 

 

I almost have all parts needed for this project now. I have chosen to use the following caps for this project:

- Radial electrolytic caps over and including 4.7uF will be replaced with Panasonic FC-series except for the big reservoir caps which will be replaced by a pair of Nichicon GU-series.

- Lower value radial electrolytic caps will be replaced by WIMA MKS2 film caps.

- The axial electrolytic caps will be replaced with Nichicon VX-series except for C6 on the fan regulation board, as I couldn’t find that value in the VX-series. I will use a Vishay for that instead.

Besides that I will change the backup battery, the mute relay and the trimmers for the idle current where I will use Piher PT10s. Most of the parts have been bought at Mouser. I have saved the BM5500 as a project there, so if someone wants to use the same parts, I can send you the list. Mouser can’t deliver 1uF 50V WIMAs before April though and the 2.2uF 63V WIMAs I had bought turned out to be too big to fit on the boards, so I bought some 1uF and 2.2uF 50V WIMAs elsewhere. 

/Dennis


B&O added the four polyester caps to prevent self-oscillation.
Since this is a Beomaster 5500, I would expect to find them already fitted (though they may not show in the schematics).
If not, you could choose to do it - but if the problem relates to the input signal, they will not fix anything and I think I would leave it as-is.

Are the two large cans defective? Are yours the golden or blue type?
These are usually in suprisingly fine condition and of a very good quality. I wouldn't replace them unless
I really have to - and in that case I'd gladly fit good used ones from a donor Beomaster.
The same goes for the two large ones in Beomaster 6000. I've always found them exceptionally good and they practically only fail if
physically damaged.

Also - what made you choose FC, VX and GU series?

Martin

Yes, the 4 220nFs are there - C215 and C415 seem to be different though as seen on the picture below... And they didn't spare on the thermal paste!

I think I'll try to see first, if the 100nF fixes the problem and then maybe leave it there if it does to prevent it from happening again in the future. They new electrolytics will age as well as the old ones - the 100nF won't. 

According to the owner, the BM has turned off by itself quite a lot of times, and I can only imagine that was due to overheating, so the two large cans will probably have seen quite a lot of heat, which is why I've decided to change them. And besides that they are 30 years old after all.

Regarding choice of caps; I wanted caps from reputable brands and other people seems to have had good experience with those.

/Dennis

You didn't tell me, if those "bad, ancient, well-cooked and heavily overdue" large cans are golden or blue?

Martin

@Martin; Golden Roederstein as seen on the picture below. 

 

I got board 2 (output and powersupply) out of the BM. 

I considered mounting the 100nF cap on the underside of the board, but following the traces I could see, that it was also possible to mount it in the holes of J36 and R16 as shown on the picture below and thereby get it on the component side instead. 

Here's how it looks mounted in place:

So, I got the board back in the BM for a test. I was very pleased to see, that the idle current and power consumption would now stay at the same level no matter how far I turned up the volume and the hum is gone as well. Will try it with a pair of speakers tomorrow as it's getting late now. A thank you to the guys at Beocentral is in order! 

Next step will be to recap the board and get the trimmers replaced and idle current adjusted. 

/Dennis

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