Welcome to BeoWorld.

1.) Sounds like centering could be an issue. You just refoamed these? Lightly press inwards on the drive in question -can you hear a "scraping" sound? Don't run these if you do, you may be able to remove and refit the foam before it is too late. Drivers are apparently still available (I have never personally sourced them) for these if it is a loss.

2.) I can't offer much advice here... but I think you may need more equipment than just your typical workbench tools... FM signal generator???

3.) Have you tried both the CX and M's? Have you tried different wires? Don't spend the $200USD for a B&o store... they almost certainly won't be able to help. Member: Dillen on BeoWorld has comprehensive cap and light kits available for these w/ excellent instructions. Any qualified e-repair shop can handle the fitment should you not want to try yourself. These BM's are very compact, but serviceable... the worst part is getting them apart, getting to the boards, and getting them back together.

4.) Either of your speakers should be fine w/ the BM, though it may struggle to push the M's a bit. Just what was your multiple speaker setup?

I can confirm that both the user and service manuals are on site if you decide to upgrade to silver.

RE: Your other post tagged on the BM3000 wiring thread... I would be happy to provide pics... but... as mentioned... these are not the easiest things to access and are SO tight, that pics prob won't do you that much good! With that said, Dillen's instructions include shots of the important areas with highlighted components.

Hope that helps a little... I am sure more posters will be along soon! 🙂

I agree that it sounds like a centering problem - I would be tempted to simply replace the unit.

The BM2000 issue sounds as though a kit from Dillen is required but I would not be able to manage to do this myself and you may feel the same. An electronic TV repair shop might give you a decent quote - certainly cheaper than B&O.

Which type of Beomaster 2000 are we talking about ?
It's correct that kits exist for the older 1970's version but none are available for
the newer 80's one. At least not yet.
My guess is that yours are the newer version - because it was bought with CX speakers.
In that case, distortion is almost 100% safe to say from the hybrid amplifier IC since
practically the whole amplifier is in there.
Alignment of the tuner is rarely needed - and as already suggested - not a task to perform
on the "kitchen table".
Any faults here will likely be something else like f.e. a dried out capacitor, a drifting resistor
or a faulty semiconductor. The alignment itself usually does not go bad so I suggest you take
a couple of DC voltage readings and compare to the service manual.
Regarding signal amplitudes and distortions;
As you have a little electronic knowledge, the easiest thing for you would be to connect
a signal generator to the tape input (f.e. 1KHz sinewave and 0,5Vpp) and an oscilloscope to
strategic points in the signal path and check for signal amplitude and curve shapes
and compare left/right.
If the fault lies within the FM tuner you have to connect an FM signal generator, preferably
one with a stereo pilot, modulate with f.e. 1KHz and check the signal paths again.

The bad refoam job is typical for owners wanting to try their luck with this task.
They've heard that it is oh so easy but nobody told them about shim'ing and aligning
so they ended up disappointed and with wasted money.
Depending on the type of cement used for the job, the speaker may still be rescued.
Alternatively, and fortunately, this is a type of driver that is still available, and that even new.

Martin

Dillen wrote:

It's correct that kits exist for the older 1970's version but none are available for
the newer 80's one. At least not yet.

My bad... 😳 I need to add "may have" next time! 😁

Sorry should have noted before, its type 2913 (mid 80's)

I'm surprised to read it is only 30W amp, as the back of the unit says 170W!  It never had problem pushing the M75's.

1- I inherited the BM2000 about 10 years ago and I know i stupidly played it at lower volumes despite the deteriorated foams.  (it actually didn't sound bad as long as the bass wasn't driven to much) I know you're all probably cringing ; )  I did get lazy (didn't want to remove and buy new dust caps) and didn't insure the coils were centered when i was re-foaming

so it may already be too late.  do you suggest i remove the dust cap and inspect the coil for center, shim if necessary, then reglue the foam to the frame?

Does anyone know what a new driver would cost in US$?  the other woofer in the same unit shows signs of cracking in the paper cone, i might replace that one too if cost effective.

2- As stated, the tuner never worked well for me. would a good tv repair man be able to repair the tuner section as well as trouble shooting the Amp problem?

3- yes i tried different wires, different speakers, and i noticed while it will push some sound thru the CX's it wouldn't push much thru the M's.  I'm glad to hear your opinion on B&O shops. i was starting to feel i was being cheap, but a budget is a budget, right?  Do you recommend any e-shops in particular?  I'm in the states on the west coast and would like to avoid shipping long distance.  I am more interested in investing in the repair especially if i am part of it and learning.  I never much like to just hand things over and pay for things to be done for me, but i do know my limitations and the B&O stuff is too special to give up on!

4- the multi speaker set-up included the following:  from "speaker 1" outputs to a speaker switch with four outs I had the (A) M75's in the living room, (B) cheap RCA 1.5W 6-Ohm spkrs in kitchen, (C) Aiwa (9.3 Ohm on my multimeter) compact system speakers in the garage.  I think my problem arose when more than one pair was on at a time, lowering the impedance beyond spec. I was ignorant as to the importance of impedance values and how to calculate their values when grouped together (in this case in parallell)

I'm really excited to be getting all this help (thank you, thank you to all!) and to see where this goes.  A light at the end of the tunnel?  Definitely!

Dillen,

since mine is one from the 80's, does that mean i'm out of luck for parts, or just a "kit"?

Greg

There's no kit and no plans of one. But that usually means that a specific need for a kit hasn't been noted.
I believe, I have a couple of amplifier hybrid IC's in the drawer and the rest is more or less standard
components so I don't see a parts problem, really.

Most TV repairers will also be able to check an FM tuner.

Martin

Great!  That's very encouraging to know that parts are available.

I'll post again after i get the unit tested by someone qualified.

Thanks!

Greg

The 170W is what it will consume at full power. So if you imagine it producing 60W of power, and imagine the heat it produces (Class AB produce a fair amount of heat!) and the other little bits (lights etc), it soon adds up! It will drive most speakers well though - you only use a couple of watts most of the time !