Beomaster 1000 model 2318 repair project

64 replies

Hi all, my first post on this forum.

You guys are doing a sterling job and thanks for all the wisdom shared, it has already helped me a lot.

The reason for me wanting to restore/repair the old lady is that it is of huge sentimental value, it was bought the year I was born and has been in my family ever since. It survived my student years (running a CD player through the tape input) but eventually got stored when the whole AV revolution started and has only been used sporadically over the last 15 years.

I have read most threads relating to BM 1000 but not finding anything that specifically relates to my issues.  The model 2318 seems a bit light on information - even my included circuit diagram is for a model 2316/2317.

I recently started venturing back into vinyl and thought that the BM 1000 with my (still working and recapped) Beovox 1200's would make records sound the way I remember them ie kinda warm and cozy. 

That is when the problems started. The BM 1000 would not switch on.  Opened it up and discovered the large 3000uF 50V cap had leaked out a copious amount of gunk, I replaced that and she lit up just fine and worked for a short while (couple of days) although the left channel for QII was dead.

At the time that issue was limited to the QII input only, QI and tape and FM worked fine so that is a preamp issue I will have to address eventually.

I also replaced the two 3000uF output caps because I had a lot of distortion on the left channel at medium volume and up.

Unfortunately the following issues have now appeared. They are different for each channel and will list accordingly. My electronic knowledge is limited and at this point my testing equipment is limited to a multimeter. However I can solder well enough.

Left channel only hums softly. Like a transformer hum. The hum is not affected by volume, when on a single speaker the hum continues even when the balance is switched completely to the right channel. Some basic investigation revealed the following : the voltage at point J over resistor 678 is measuring at 350mV iso 24mV.  Temperature after 5 minutes is 55C. Turning the potentiometer has no significant effect.

Right Channel very soft and tinny sound, no bass whatsover. The voltage at point J over resistor 754 is 681mV and that temperature jumps up to 122 C within 5 minutes.  Turning the potentiometer has no significant effect.

The 30V reading at point J measured chassis side of resistor 678 starts at about 32V and then slowly falls to 29.85V but is not stable at the point, it fluctuates all the time.

I desoldered the potentiometer for 30V adjustment, cleaned and replaced it - made no difference. I did test it before replacing and it did give me 0-1076 ohm.

I have checked all three fuses, they are fine.

After 5 minutes the bottom of the unit (where the transistors are) and the heat sink are hot enough to raise nasty blisters.

Some pointers as to where I need to start troubleshooting would be greatly appreciated - I really would love to restore the BM 1000 to working order.

Thanks in advance

Anton

 

 

Welcome to the forum, get yourself a cap, lamp and trimmer kit from Martin (Dillen n the forum) and go from there, here is what I did

Location: Mexico city

Retired
Printing machine technician
Restored various 1960-70 items
Rock and Roll music
Collecting Vinyl
Restored Jukebox Wurlitzer 1050

Hi Søren and thanks for the welcome.

I have indeed read and re-read your thread a couple of times as it is detailed and the closest model to mine. Thank you for that.

I hear you about the recap/trimmer kit and will have to do that in due course.

I know this is a big ask but do you by any chance have an image of the back of your 2317's PCB board, there is something I need to check with regards to the wiring on the back of the board in the area of the speaker output capacitors. I am hoping you took a shot when you had it open and were working on it.

Regards, Anton

AntonvZ wrote:
I know this is a big ask but do you by any chance have an image of the back of your 2317's PCB board,

Just checked nothing there Anton, sorry

Location: Mexico city

Retired
Printing machine technician
Restored various 1960-70 items
Rock and Roll music
Collecting Vinyl
Restored Jukebox Wurlitzer 1050

Any chance of photos of the back, the dial and the serialnumber label?

Martin

Thanks for checking Søren

Thanks for checking Søren

 

Dillen wrote:
Any chance of photos of the back, the dial and the serialnumber label?

Coming right up, but not sure which dial you are refering to.

 

Dillen wrote:
the dial

Maybe this one?

Thanks for the photos.
The dial is the tuning scale - the one with the frequency numbers etc. All in the photos.

The left channel emitter resistors look burned. This will be the reason for the warm underside, because the underside is used as a cooling surface for the output stages.
Too high idle current is my guess - probably caused by a bad idle current trimmer. Don't power up again until it has been fixed; Replace the trimmer, the emitter resistors and check the output stage transistors.

The right channel will need the same treatment more or less.
And new capacitors in general will solve many problems.

Martin 

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