Different colors of wire was used in the Beolit 39 so, even if there's not a lot of wires
in there, to answer your question you will have to be a little more specific as to where.
Can't you tell the original colors from the remaining pieces of insulation ?

I suggest you use a type of wire that will stand the heat among the valves
and power resistors for future safety.

We don't discuss vintage stuff too much here so let's see some photos of your work, please.

Martin

It was my intention to change the wires with some silicone types, but the color of the old ones has faded a bit.

I have removed the chassis from the cabinet and it looks pretty good exept for a few minor things.

The tubes installed is ECH3 EF9 CBL1 and CY1. The ECH3 and EF9 are not the originals for the Beolit, furtunately I found the Philips CCH2 and the EF5 in my stock.

The main electrolytic is the original one, but maybe new caps must be installed in the capacitor box.

I am not sure if the 2 ceramic resistor on the dial lamp has the right location?

I just cleaned up the chassis before starting the repair.

The chassis no is 39413

Joergen

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The two ceramic resistors at the dial lamp socket are not original.
I'm sure, they were introduced in the valve heater series chain to compensate
for the voltage difference from the original CCH2 frontend valve to the ECH3.
Can they be calculated to apprx 115-120 Ohms ?

I did something similar in my restoration thread (as I'm sure, you already read);
/forum/general-discussion-and-questions/create-puc-for-beosystem4-based-tv#post-2043343

The capacitor box will definitely need new capacitors.
I did this too when I restored a Master 39K;
/forum/imported-unmapped/bampo-en-telenet

Silicone wire will be fine.

Martin

Hi Jorgen,

Nice to see that you have started to repair your Beolit 39.

Here's a picture of the chassis of my Beolit 39.

It's a bit older than yours and has serial number 37880.

You can see that mine doesn't have the ceramic resistors.

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Rudy

And both of these chassis confirm that neither of the Beolits in my resto thread had the original capacitor.
It should be a block dry (paper/wax) capacitor rather than an electrolyte.

Martin

Rudy, it is nice to do some restoration again which I haven`t done for years.

Martin, when I had a closer look at the radio, I can see that the filter cap should be a Hunts 2x24uF (as the 39K), it has been replaced with a similar Wicon 2x24uF. With the tube line up it`s more or less converted to a Beolit 40, so the circuits has to be wired back to a Beolit 39.

The radio is missing two bakelite hex screws which secure the chassis, also the power switch is faulty.

Best regards

Jørgen

After a approx 10 nice hours, this wonderful radio is again back in service, after maybe more than 50 years break.

The original tubes are installed and the filter capacitor is changed to the original Hunts electrolytic 2x24uF (with two modern capacitor build in). Several contacts are cleaned, and a number of caps replaced. There are still some work left, as I would like to change some of the wires when I find some suitable parts. Also the cabinet needs a helping hand to complete this project.

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