Beolab 5000 Amplifier Mexico

313 replies
......

Your list is more or less like mine, I have a handwritten list, but ended up with a kit (all axial) from Martin, my BL works good with the kit, but I would list which caps are really needed as axial and get the rest as radial, a lot easier to work with and easier to get within the values.

From Martin I got this conversion table:

4 uF = 4.7 uF

25 uF = 22 uF

50 uF = 47 uF

80 uF = 100 uF

160 uF = 220 uF

200 uF = 220 uF

400 uF = 470 uF

Where possible I would go for radials 105°C, Nichicon or Panasonic, the orinals are all 20% so keep within the margin or go one step up in uF and voltage. If I remember right, for the big ones, I went for Nichicon 105°C 2700 uF 100 V and 105°C 3300 uF 63 V

And as I told before change the "Black Drop" transistors with BC 550/560 B or C, (both low noice TRs) and make sure you get the polarity right, I spend some hours searching because or inverted polarity.

Come back with more, it is getting interesting, and remember we are checking on you 😁

 

Location: Mexico city

Retired
Printing machine technician
Restored various 1960-70 items
Rock and Roll music
Collecting Vinyl
Restored Jukebox Wurlitzer 1050

 

 

Now I have checked what capacitors needs to be axial and I get the following list:

Axial Capacitors, B&O component number first.

Comp. number                         Capacitor                      pcs.

127, 134, 168, 178 100µF 6,4V 4
473 100µF 64V 1
31, 48, 429 10µF 64V 3
63,346 160µF 25V 2
58, 71, 90, 104, 378 25µF 25V 5
142,182 400µF 40V 2
299,306 4µF 64V 2
13,82 50µF 40V 2
38, 59, 103, 417 80µF 25V 4

The rest are, or can be, radial.

Could you please double check with your list ? There are a few that I am not 100% sure about since I have not desoldered them yet.

I found a really good site to order through right here in Sweden, it is http://www.mouser.se/Passive-Components/Capacitors/_/N-5g7r/

 

 

Your values uF/V are as mine, amounts are with few differences, but there are differences in the build series. as for axial and radial, I have no lists separating as I went all axial, I buy nearly all my electronics by Mouser US. The axial values will be hard to match, but step up to the nearest possible, and check prices, there are big differences between brands and values  

Location: Mexico city

Retired
Printing machine technician
Restored various 1960-70 items
Rock and Roll music
Collecting Vinyl
Restored Jukebox Wurlitzer 1050

Hi,

I must say that I haven't replaced any transistors in mine. It is silent - no crackles or anything funny.

We are indeed following, even when silent!

Hi Søren & Jacques,

 

I admit most of this goes right over my head, but I still find it fascinating. 🤒

 

Jeff

Location: Victoria, British Columbia

My B&O Icons:

BeoCenter-9500.png BeoCenter-9500.png
Beovox.png Beovox.png
Beotime.png Beotime.png
Beosound.png Beosound.png
Beogram-400x.png Beogram-400x.png

Today a package from Mouser arrived! I bought Nichicon and Panasonic. I have now replaced all capacitors on one of the circuitboards. I noticed that I had ordered radial where it should be axial on one place so far. I will get back with a correct list of radial/axial along with the updated specs on each capacitor and other components that are wise to replace while in there. 

 

It was funny they had some capacitors sold as "Gold Tune" and others that were audio specialized. Not more expensive so I bought some.

Pretty big difference in size though, I did not check that before as you did Sören. I would actually like to have the three big ones as close the original sizes as possible. It is hard to secure them in place otherwise. And remember to check polarity on the big ones before removing them...! 

Okay!

My own Beolab still runs happily on its original big caps. I find that these original Wicon caps are impressively durable: all my Beomasters still have them in place!

Otherwise I usually use caps that fit, and it invariably means higher voltage - or more expensive ones - but it is not a problem. A good example is the QUAD 303 that absolutely need replacements, unlike B&O amplifiers.

For the big caps I went for the biggest diameter I could get, and with the help of some homemade foam pieces (hard foam mats used for stamping dies in the printing industry) I could use the original supports, my caps are shorter then the originals, it gave more space to make the soldering easier.

Location: Mexico city

Retired
Printing machine technician
Restored various 1960-70 items
Rock and Roll music
Collecting Vinyl
Restored Jukebox Wurlitzer 1050

The soldering was not very hard, unless for the biggest cap. The positive side had 3 cables soldered onto the pin... I did not want to shorten the cables but I might have to if I want to solder them onto the new pin... 😉

 

Now I have desoldered all aluminium electrolytes and replaced them with new ones from Nichicon and some Panasonic. 

Here is the total list of capacitors changed divided upon radial and axial ones:

Axial Capacitors

Pcs



100µF 6,4V 4
100µF 64V 1
10µF 64V 3
160µF 25V 4
25µF 25V 5
400µF 40V 2
4µF 64V 2
50µF 40V 2
80µF 25V 3

 



Radial Capacitors pcs
10 µF 64V 10
100 µF 6,4V 6
200 µF 10V 2
25 µF 25V 14
2500 µF 100V 1
3000 µF 50V 2
4 µF 64V 2
50 µF 40V 2
80 µF 25V 8
250 µF 16V

1

......
or
BeoWorld Gold Membership card
Join BeoWorld

Register to access the forums, reference material, and exclusive member benefits — including our monthly prize draw.

Become a Member

December 2026 Prize Draw

Gold Members Only

As a Gold member you're automatically entered into our exclusive prize draw — your chance to win iconic Bang & Olufsen products. A unique benefit of BeoWorld Gold membership, every draw brings a new opportunity to win something special.