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Yes it is that one, I'm afraid. I know I wrote, that it might be doable without removing the plastic stuff above, but I haven't tried it and I wouldn't recommend it if your not very used to soldering in tight spaces.

So the best (even if it is tedious) option is to remove the plastic cover by unsoldering the components that are threaded through it. Those are all through-hole components, so comparably easy to remove with standard tools. The display is just in some sort of socket

The capacitor in question is an SMD type. A bit tricky do desolder and best done with a hot air nozzle. Since it's broken anyway, I usually pry the aluminium can off the plastic base with a flat screwdriver and cut the leads. You can then cut/butcher the base with a wirecutter and clean up with soldering iron and wick. It's a bit brutal, but effective. As replacement I used a leaded capacitor. Much easier to solder, and there's plenty of space.

Good luck!

thanks

On taking the plastic off, I missed the fact that the red LED was still attached - so I need to put a new one in. Do you know what spec that would be?

I did the same thing! I actually never replaced it, because it was the one for the timer and I never use the timer anyway. My guess (!) would be if you get any red LED with the right diameter it should be fine. 

Yes, a 3mm LED did the job. due to the last one breaking, I didn't know what polarity the LED should be on the board, so I just took a 50:50 and got lucky! Iit isn't a big deal to reverse it if it isn't. unfortunately, I didn't log which was positive on the board though....

The capacitor though did do the job! 

Congrats on getting it to work again!

For future reference: the long leg (anode, +) goes in the round hole, while the short leg of the LED (cathode, -)  that is on the flat side of the "bulb" goes in the square hole.