Beobuddy a few days ago sent a picture of the circuitry and my BL1 is exactly the same inside. On that pic is a big circuit panel at the top, then a copper wired whatever in the middle then a smaller panel at the bottom. On Beobuddy's pic where the fuse sits is slightly hidden by the copper but it is at the top left hand corner of this smaller panel. The fuse sits in a fuse holder with two silver coloured retainers each end to hold the fuse in place.The fuse is a glass fuse but blackened inside suggesting it is blown. Any answers to what this fuse protects and its value appreciated.

hi there,

I do not want to be negative but I think you should consider buying the entire electronic module!

I bought few years back a pair of Lab1 in new condition from a B&O dealer( without warranty) . After 2 months one of the speaker was dead. Cost of the repairing : 1000$ and I was lucky as the module was available.

6 moths ago my friend , which has also a pair of Lab 1, called me and told me that one of the speaker is dead. B&O repair center does not have any spare part for it, so he send it to a repair center ( not B&O as they do not repaair the speaker if module is not available). After 3 months in the shop, the guy told him that he cannot repair it.! Our chance was E-bay! We found a module for 500$ and now the speaker is working!!!

In your case I will check user:  broomstick   on  ebay. I remember I saw  that he has another module for sale few weeks ago!

Good luck!

It's a 4A slow blow fuse. It's located on the "primary side".

If this one is blown, then there must be a big short on the secondary side or in the transformator itself. But I don't think that it will be the latter.

But that shortcircuit must be more easy to measure.

Thanks for all the advice. I have spent so much over the last year repairing B&O equipment (Beosound 9000, 2 Beolab 4000's which failed within 6 months of each other) that I have to conclude that my B&O units are failing one by one. Repairing one BL1 is only likely to see a failure in the other BL1 in a short time i'm thinking. I will change the 4A slow burn fuse (tx for that) and if it blows again which I expect i will give up. Advice from B&O itself and their engineers has been laughable, but the workbench inputs have been great. My next thought is to strip out the amp/circuitry entirely and use the cabinet as a speaker unit but non active and just driven by an external amp. I can't junk the design and loveliness of these speakers so why not keep the outside and strip out the electronics. Has anyone done this and kept the existing speakers in place (as they seem fine), or alternatively replace the whole insides with new speakers inside. If new speakers any advice on what might work best with the B&O tower design to get the best sound. This at least can see their use as speakers extended for use with non B&O equipment, albeit not the quality of repooduction, which has got to be better than hanging them on the wall instead of pictures which my wife strangely has a problem with. Any suggestions.

I have replaced the 4A slow blow fuse, connected everything up and the speaker works! Goes from standby to green and stays there. Have run it all afternoon. Perhaps the problem will come back because that fuse protects something but for now all is good.

One last point....B&O came back yesterday and said that they would be able to repair the BeoLab on a chassis level. If I get it to a workshop in Malta , B&O Italy would advise them how to strip it down, then that workshop would send it to Denmark to the main repair centre and they would be prepared to repair it. So there must be spares available which is very welcome but complete about turn from B&O on the availability of sparers/repair issue. Not needed now unless the problem returns but good news!

@JohnMoore. I hope that you can read this post. I am trying to help (again) a friend who had a Beolab 1 also. His speakers seems to have the same problem green and red, then nothing. We live in Cambodia and the nearest dealer is in Thailand. I have transport 7 years ago one of his speaker for repair in Bangkok by plane. It was buzzing. They changed the main circuit board and it cost a lot, without taking into account the plane ticket. But now both speakers died as mentioned. We planned to bring again the speakers (plane tickets already bought) but they just inform us that they don't have the spare parts anymore (amplifier). Might be a tweeter problem... They could send a technician but we have to pay for everything ++... We might also have problem at the custom at the airport; 2 speakers will be difficult to hide. My questions: 

- Did the repair that you have done with the fuse VAL250V 4A slow blow worked?

- You mentioned a dismantling brochure of the BeoLab1 where did you find it?

I have been googling and your answers seem to be the best solution.

Your help will be greatly greatly appreciated. 

Best regards 

Sihariddh, it has been a long time since I replaced the 4A slow burn fuse but so far so good and I hope this e mail does not jinx anything with the Beolab 1. I downloaded the dismantling brochure from the net but i,m not sure where as so long ago. I don't know much apart from the help I got on the forum but you need to get to the circuitry and it is not as difficult as I thought. After disconnecting power,I laid the speaker on its back on cushions, removed the base, then removed the front panel which is done by a push in catch on the top of the speaker in the recess ..... you put your hand in the gap in the recess on top and feel around towards the front of the panel for the button to release the panel which slides off to release the top insides The speakers/ttweeter etc is revealed but you need to get to the circuitry which is below the speakers. I started to locate/unscrew until the front solid panel came free....I don't recall the steps but was not a problem if you go slow. For me when I looked at the revealed circuitry there was a fuse which was clearly blackened. Bebuddy forum members told me what fuse it was. I bought 5 locally for less than a Euro and replaced the blown fuse. The speaker worked and still does!!! I was and remain astonished that a 20 cent fuse could immobilise a speaker with these specs, and that you have to dismantle the whole speaker to get to it....but there it is. I had in fact checked the tweeter by also dismantling the other speaker and switching the tweeters but this was not the problem.....just a fuse and you can do it too if you go slowly and carefully.This was the solution for me....but if the circuitry generally is a problem then I think you have a bigger issue. Hope this helps.

Not to be negative, but I already fixed around  20 units. The fuses are mostly not blown. There are a number of culpritts which causes this red-green-red behaviour.

If it's the 4A fuse, then you're another lucky guy..

Thank you John for the fast reply. We'll try to do this fast fix this week end. It will surely cost less, and less headache than to bring it over there ... and bring it back. It took them months to get the spare parts last time. Now it's seems that they don't do the amplifier board (8006578) anymore. I am not sure about the tweeter availability? Thanks again.