If the big wheels are viewed side by side with the rest of the mechanism above, then the belt goes all the way around the big wheel on the left, and then loops under the one on the right, with the outside of the belt going around the little wheel in the corner and then stretching up to the drive wheel.

Perhaps you could post a photo and I could draw it on?  

Thanks for your reply . Aside of the picture is the driving wheel , fixed on the iron bridge wich will be fixed over the two alu wheel. 

thanks for your help

Best regards ueli

Ask the seller for mounting instructions.

Martin

cpucomp wrote:

Thanks for your reply . Aside of the picture is the driving wheel , fixed on the iron bridge wich will be fixed over the two alu wheel. 

thanks for your help

Best regards ueli

Yours looks different to mine, but then I know that there are two versions.

If you look at this thread:

Cancel my last!

Have a look at this video which shows a belt change on a BC2500.  The tape deck on your 9500 is very similar, except that your motor is mounted in a different place and feeds the system via an additional belt.

I think you will be able to work it out from this: link

By the way, I found the video linked from this thread: link

Guy wrote:

(And as an aside, Martin (who posted about asking the belt supplier) sells belt replacement kits and always includes excellent fitting instructions!  This explains his reticence to help out the competition!)

Competition is healthy.
Having said that, I make next to no profit on the belts I provide so I really don't have to sell any.
The far majority of my belts are from my own production because most of the cheap standard belts generally available on Ebay etc. are
useless in B&O.
I need quite a few belts (and other else-unavailable parts) for my own repairs and restorations so I have to make some myself.

Producing molds, having chemical analysis done, casting, testing etc. is both very costly and timeconsuming.
For most of the parts I provide I will never reach the point of break-even.
And I also spend time making instructions.

So competition doesn't bother me. What bothers me is all the damage done to nice vintage B&O decks caused by wrong belts.
I've seen no less than five different size belts sold for the same deck - by the same seller. None of them correct, and
even if the size was close to being correct, the elasticity was far off.
I've even seen drain- or sewer pipe gaskets (!) sold on Ebay as belts for Beogram 1000 etc. They were about the right size but stiff as
plastic and of course absolutely useless.
Not a single day goes by without one or more emails or Ebay messages from frustrated belt buyers.
Some of them stopped when things didn't look or feel right - but unfortunately not all.
I do my best to help out where I can. That often begins with sending them the correct parts - and sometimes also
replacement parts to take care of whatever collateral damage was caused.

So please don't get me wrong.
I help a lot of people every single day. Parts, advice, diagnoses etc.
More than a few times did I send my belt mounting instructions to people who
bought belts from Portugal or wherever, and several times was I blamed when motor bearings got damaged and the motor
started screeching after just a few playing hours, when electronics burned etc. etc. etc.
I've heard it all enough times to only supply my instructions to people who bought my belts.

But yes, there are two very different deck types. OP has the later type and it's somewhat identical to the
deck used in Beosystem 2500 as Guy mentions.
Don't be surprised if something doesn't seem to fit or if the motor makes more noise or draws more current
than normal. Blame that on the belts and stop using the deck asap. I'm running out of spare motors.

Martin

Hallo Martin

Besten Dank für Deine Antwort. Vor einigen Tagen stand ich mit meinem Beocenter am Abgrund (sprich verschrotten) , nun bin ich einen Schritt weiter....

Ich verstehe Deine Argumente sehr gut , ein solches Gerät in der Schweiz reparieren zu lassen, übersteigt sehr oft den Realwert eines Gerätes (wegen sehr hohen Fachmannkosten, sehr oft kostet schon nur der Gedanke, einen Schraubendreher in die Hand zu nehmen).

Also versucht man es selber, sucht nach Ersatzteilen in der Bucht und bestellt dei dem, der so etwas anbietet und ist froh , etwas gefunden zu haben. Im Nachhinein ist man immer wieder etwas schlauer).

Nun drehen die Räder wieder, solange   alles richt eingestellt ist , d.h. in die richtige Position geschaltet ist , wechsle ich die Spielrichtung (Tonkopf ausfahren, drehen, einfahren ), bleibt alles stecken und ein Schleifgeräusch ist zu hören.Drehe ich nun mit dem Finger am rechten Schwungrad (etwa eine viertel Drehung ) verschwindet das Geräusch und das Tonband funktioniert wieder. Gleicher Vorgang passiert, wenn ich von Vorspulen auf Rückspulen schalte. Meine Diagnose: sobald der Widerstand auf den Antriebsriemen ansteigt , dreht die Antriebswelle weiss , durch und generiert das Schleiffgeräusch , weil die Haftung/Andruck Riemen zu klein ist.

Folgerung: ich möchte zwei (2)Stück Deiner Flachriemen/Antriebsriemen bestellen . Wie kann ich bezahlen , wie lieferst Du. Postfach in Weil am Rhein vorahnden, Paypal ebenso. Sonst Lieferung per Post in die Schweiz.

Danke und Gruss  Ueli 

PM or email me.

Martin

may I have your e-mail adress? or where do i find it?

Mine: ***@bluewin.ch

Thanks