You'll notice that the two connectors in the centre at the rear of the amplifier board are push on types,or should be?

Simply disconnect one at a time and connect your meter between the pcb pin and it's  disconnected cable.

Set the meter to measure current,initially use a range above 100mA to allow for switch on surge,then set the current using the appropriate preset,which hopefully you have also replaced?

A good idea would be to clean the pin and it's connector with antioxidant to ensure a good connection later too

Regards,

Nick

Thats great, crystal clear!

When you say replace presets, do you mean the whole wheel assembly, or just the tantals behind?

I have a spare wheel ass. just in case.

Tantals where replaced!

many thanks!

No,the preset resistors on the amplifier board that you adjust the idle current with.I imagine that Martin supplied these in his kit,but if not then it would be sensible to replace them too.

Nick

Garten wrote:

Thats great, crystal clear!

When you say replace presets, do you mean the whole wheel assembly, or just the tantals behind?

 

I have a spare wheel ass. just in case.

Tantals where replaced!

 

many thanks!

Nick refers to the idle current trimmers.
Not the fingerwheel potentiometers for the FM station presets.

Martin 

Ahh, many thanks, Yes trimmers ofcourse replaced from the kit.

Left side stable as a rock (red/white cable) but right side (solid red cable) is oscillating wildly in a 50mA span.. adjusting the trimmer only moves the span ..like 70-120 or 80-130

Any idea what is causing the idle current to do this?

Thanks

//g 

Hi all,

To update my own post, i had a short on the back of the amp board, had forgot to cut a protruding wire from one of the caps, terrible. all sorted, all is stable and well.

The only thing that seems odd is the stereo lamp.. its always on. It flickers slightly during tuning, but it nevers goes off. I assumed first that it would be TR22 according to the service manual. (seee pic) but then i noticed that even with one or both of the mono buttons depressed it keep being lit. I have actually yet to find a situation where it is not lit.

Ideas?

Login to view image

Many thanks, I'll get back tomorrow after checking..  looking at the schema again...

TR21 is a BC113 and TR22 is a BC148

Both seem to be replacebe by BC549B would you agree? seems my closest match.

I also have these in my inventory, but the BC549B seems best replacement for both, any thoughts?

BC559C

BC557B

BC253B

BC547B

HI all...

All was fine and dandy, until suddenly smoke and panic...

TR58 is toast and  took 470Ohm Resistor 578 with it.. totally blown... aswell as spanking new cap (553)

As soon as i switch it on the 470hm resistor puffs a little,.. on light is present, and all else seems well.

only way to keep it from burning is to disconnect the "push on" white/red connector  front middle of the board, and a white-brown connected wire under the board (point H)

when i meaure and compare to "the working channel" seems the wire underneath to the working left side (solid brown) has 26v while the white-brown of the nonworking side has 54v (I assume its 54 and not 60 as i have it set to 240v in sweden which is approx 230 inreality)

So possibly i have an issue with this wire.

It commes from the bundle of resistors connected to the large filter/reservoid caps.

In this post, they are all changed, i can seem to find what components they are from the schematic/listing, and frankly they are crosscoupled in a way that I have a hard time understaning,

Looks like they are the 56K, 68K and 1,5k.. but there are more than accounted for by that part of the schematic

http://archivedarchivedforum2.beoworld.org/cfs-filesystemfile.ashx/__key/CommunityServer.Components.PostAttachments/00.00.35.78.67/BEO3000_5F00_optres_2D00_2.JPG

/forum/general-discussion-and-questions/beogram-2000-no-sound-with-beocenter-9500

Any help or hints would be very appreciated.

thanks

//g

Garten,

Assume that the original circuity is not to blame as it worked about 40 years.  From the moment you are restoring a system, anything can happen and you must check and re-check every steps you made.  From the capacitors polarity, soldering, wiring, selected replacement components, etc...

When you are asking for advices, we assume no mistakes were made but we are getting into a tough calls...

Before starting a project, I'm hoping you are taking lots a pictures of the original components where you refer to them afterwards, if not, your in troubles.  Also check all the soldering you made with a magnifier making sure you have not bridged components accidentally.

Good luck!