PS. Yes, via a masterlink cable

The Passive works in one of two ways:

• As a simple amplifier:  In which case it uses the Powerlink input only (no Masterlink connection, and no IR eye required).  This is how you should use it to power your ceiling speakers in the same room as the BS9000.
• As an amplifier in a LINK room:  In which case it makes use of the ML input only, and needs an IR eye to be connected so that you can control the BS9000 from the link room.

If using it in the first option above, connect the Passive using a Powerlink cable to one of the BS9000's Powerlink/Speaker outputs.

link

Have you enquired with a local B&O dealer whether they can supply crates/boxes? I have, in fact!  Poking around for solutions over the past weeks is what led me to this forum, actually.  For edification of future generations, I contacted the custom integration partners" in both the Seattle and San Diego areas (as neither answered, I left messages with both).   The Seattle dealer pointed me at B&O, who informed me that if it wasn't on the website it wasn't for sale.  The San Diego dealer told me that "not UPS-approved, whatever that means" packing crates were available in the Netherlands, quantity 4, $100 each.  Said boxes were 3-5 weeks out and it was unclear if shipping to San Diego was included in that price, but now I think I'll chase that loose end down, thanks for reminding me.

The $100 shipping boxes are $85 ea to ship so... $740 and 3-5 weeks for factory cardboard or $800 and 2 days for a bespoke shipping crate.  Shout-out to Reeltime AV of San Juan Capistrano for teasing the shipping price out of B&O via an extensive email chain that took a week to produce a definitive answer despite the fact that I have nothing to buy from them...

Working now on a beomaster 6500. Setting voltage to 240 V, adjusting trimmers, replacing the big power supply caps. Maybe I will replace the relay for power, the one for muting looks good, but the output one is corroded and I see some heat damage on the board in that area as well. I might have to do a full recap but I couldn't find a kit, if someone knows where to get all the caps in one go that would be great.

^ Great work Camiel, and welcome to Beoworld!  I've always admired how much electronics is squeezed into the BM6500 packaging - but that must make it difficult to work on.  One day I hope to get hold of a white one to match my BG6500.

Danish Sound Parts (one of our sponsors) do sell some spares for the BM6500 but I can't see a capacitor kit unfortunately.  Good luck with the project!

<h3>Another project nobody really needs — but it’s a lot of fun.</h3> Control your old BeoLink PC2 / BeoPort on Windows 11, Linux, and probably macOS as well. You can also hook up a small ESP32 with an IR transmitter to control your BeoMaster. The ESP32 can connect via USB or Bluetooth, giving you plenty of flexibility. Multiple user interfaces are available: Terminal / GUI / Web (a mobile version is on the way).   link  

Are these the linked threads that you were after?

/forum/general-discussion-and-questions/reverse-engineering-of-bampo-drivers-beoport-and-software-beoplayer

/forum/general-discussion-and-questions/the-masterlink-protocol-and-opensource

/forum/imported-unmapped/using-a-raspberry-pi-as-a-diy-equivalent-to-logitech-harmony

(I searched using google with search term:  XXXXX site:archivedforum2.beoworld.org    (where XXXXX was the five digit reference towards the end of your given link addresses - i.e #5328, 28687 and 30181)

thx

I have recently purchased a pair of Beolab 8 and have been tinkering with the Mozart REST API. The result is a small Windows remote app for B&O connected speakers, that currently runs nicely on my PC only. I wonder if there is an interest in the community for such a little tool.

You can think of it like a spare Beoremote Halo on your PC. That's about how it works. Plus additional features like ad blockers for internet radio and Spotify, the option to stream from anywhere and a few more gimmicks.

If you find that interesting - I'd really need some beta testers - please send me a private message. You need a Windows PC and a connected

Received a complimentary Form1 with another purchase, it the usual condition - without foam.  After reading the archives on the issues everyone was having with the original foam, I bought a cheap set of Logitech 150 foam replacements for $10-for-2-sets, and affixed them with trim adhesive.  Not ideal nor exact replacements, but serviceable given the time and effort I was willing to put into it.  If someone ever has a better solution, I can always shave them off. Unit seems to work fine without the upper cushions, but then, I'm not overly concerned with comfort, fit and finish of this particular headset.  Hopefully someone else can find this information useful to repair their sets without foam.