You might want to reconsider storing equipment in an attic depending on the temperatures that occur in your particular attic. I know that my attic gets above 120 Fahrenheit / 50 Celsius in the summertime. IMHO, this is too hot for storing equipment. I store my excess equipment either in my cool, dry basement or on semi-permanent loan to family and friends. I've considered removing belts from the tape decks for long term storage. This may save the step of cleaning up the "goo" if the belt degrades that far. For the lithium batteries... Whenever I replace the soldered-in batteries, I install a socket. This would make it easy to remove/replace the battery if needed. As far as the equipment use affecting battery life, I think that it is dependent on the specific design. I've seen some designs where the battery powers the memory backup regardless of the power status of the equipment. I'm also curious about people's opinions about the "use it or lose it" when it comes to capacitors. I've read contradicting things on this subject (i.e. the subjective versus objective problem). Glitch

Thanks Glitch - that's very useful! It's only one of the BC2300s that has been in an attic, and I will try to get hold of it next week and see what condition it's in.  I think there are some Redline 60.2s up there as well! Good tip about the battery sockets; I don't think the BC9500 would have room for a socket in the original battery location but I could relocate for ease of access.  The BC2300s should be more straightforward with enough room under the microprocessor cover (I think it's identical to the Ouverture picture that you posted in the FM tuner thread). Do you have a recommended battery socket with pins that match the PCB hole spacing?

So yesterday on a visit to my Mother-In-Law I ventured into the loft and retrieved just a few of the 12-year storage items - they actually all belong to my son but there's no room in his current flat: (ignore the barometer, that's from another loft!) Login to view image And inside the boxes found: MCL2P with Original Instructions and the 15v cable for powering MCL2AV, plus bottle opener! Login to view image Some cables! Login to view image Some remotes (needed more of those! ?) Login to view image Plus the BC2300 in great external/cosmetic condition Login to view image All will be carefully tested over next few days and I will report back any interesting findings!

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MCL2P with Original Instructions and the 15v cable for powering MCL2AV,

I did not expect the 15V cable to be gray, but what do you know. On the other hand these connectors was also used on the Beolit power supplies so they might have had plenty in stock.

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I did not expect the 15V cable to be gray, but what do you know. On the other hand these connectors was also used on the Beolit power supplies so they might have had plenty in stock.

The connectors are actually a little strange - the external contact has a small plastic sleeve on it that will slide up and down. I am not sure of the purpose, but it does need a bit of force to push it into the MCL2P socket, whereupon there is a positive 'click' once fully inserted: I had a quick play with the BC2300 last night.  It's a Type 2612 SW1.4 version (one-way IR) with the linear (straight line) CD laser movement.  Mixed results:

• Door opened and closed fine first time - very smooth and small gap between panels when closed.  Door motion sensors are working fine - less sensitive than my older 2-way BC2300.
• All keyboard buttons work fine - this was my first ever B&O fix when I fitted a new contact foil back in 2010.
• FM and AM radio work fine - FM presets were still stored from 12 years ago and no problems with FM offset (checked with known stations).
• Display a bit dim - but I have seen how to adjust contrast in a YouTube video, hence may attempt this.
• CD not working!!!  It tries to play and then I get the < > (no disc) display.  I took the back off and put it in test mode.  The CD tests all run smoothly will the laser coming on, trying to focus and full linear movement up/down.  Trying to play CD in TESTMODE then gives a Focus Error 2.  I'll investigate further but possibly hijack your Ouverture CD thread, as I think it's the same CD module.  In the meantime here's a picture with the rear cover removed:

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The connectors are actually a little strange – the external contact has a small plastic sleeve on it that will slide up and down. I am not sure of the purpose, but it does need a bit of force to push it into the MCL2P socket, whereupon there is a positive ‘click’ once fully inserted:

Interesting with the design of that connector as the connector I am using for mine is not sitting very well in the socket, and as the MCL2AV is designed to have the connections downwards this design would sure help to keep the the connector inside.

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CD not working!!!  It tries to play and then I get the < > (no disc) display.  I took the back off and put it in test mode.  The CD tests all run smoothly will the laser coming on, trying to focus and full linear movement up/down.  Trying to play CD in TESTMODE then gives a Focus Error 2.  I’ll investigate further but possibly hijack your Ouverture CD thread, as I think it’s the same CD module

Sounds like some of the same issues I had. Although I dont thinkt the focus error appearead on my ouverture.

Also in the MCL2P box - solid plastic plug 42mm long.  Any ideas what for? Login to view image Perhaps the unused type number label is the MCL2P 'accessory', and the plug from elsewhere - the BC2300 perhaps?

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I seem to remember seeing something similar in white before, but can’t remember what it was for.

It's familiar to me too! Perhaps used to push a hidden reset button, or as a depth guide when drilling holes?

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I actually discovered that I have one of these connectors, so I might as well put it on my power supply for the MCL2AV to help secure the connection better.

It's also the same size as the connector on the , although I replaced mine with a PL plug, I kept the plug, and just managed to find it in my 'small spares' box.  The 'extra' black plastic sleeve is in a fixed position on the remote switch plug: Login to view image

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Have you tried testing the MCl2P yet? I was wondering if the 15V output for the MCL2AV is always on? I guess I has to be on in standby for the MCL2AV to be active, and then the MCL2AV can wake the MCL2P from standby via powerlink.

Just testing it now (prompted by your post, and the fact that my wife is out so I can use the living room!)  Yes the 15v (measured 14.75V no load) is always on.  One thing that I remember from before is that the BC2300 will not 'mute' the MCL2P, despite using a fully wired PL cable.  I have a(nother) Passive arriving in the next few days so I will check mute with that also. Easiest passive speakers to access for test were my Audiorama 8000s, still in their Winter blankets! Login to view image CD still not working - must crack on with that task ...

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This might be related to the fact that the MCL2P only use pin 1 in the powerlink connector for powering up. This thread https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/powerlink-power-up-vs-speaker-on/ mentions pin 1 as powering up and pin 4 as a mute function on older powerlink speakers.

Yes I think you are right - I was just working my way through the service manuals to remind myself of the powerlink pins. I also just checked two different PL leads with the multimeter - one was fully wired and the other had all except pin 8 connected. I'll let you know when I check the Passive EDIT: And I just found my 14-year old post on the same subject! /forum/general-discussion-and-questions/is-bang-and-olufsen-in-trouble#post-2130714