Glad to hear that it now works, and that you like the looks and the sound of your system,

But I can't help thinking that the 'team of professional Audio installers' maybe should have read the userguide before starting the job.

MM

The issue of the system not integrating with non B&o TV and components is not covered in any manual. The b&o sales person did not know this was going to happen. This is a brand new system and it appears that some of intricate technical details aren't yet fully understood by all.

The issue of the system not integrating with non B&o TV and components is not covered in any manual. The b&o sales person did not know this was going to happen. This is a brand new system and it appears that some of intricate technical details aren't yet fully understood by all.

Sorry it was a hassle, but B&O addressed those 2 issues specifically in the installation guide.  Too bad so many installers are too brilliant to RTFM. But not knowing that an optical is fixed-level unless it has an inboard pre-amp? Even I know that.

In order to mix B&O and Non-B&O inputs, you should be able to just flip the yes/no switch in the back of Transmitter 1 when going from one to the other.  A pain, but it should work.  

Better TVs have a variable audio output with internal speaker on/off switch, though they are getting fewer by the day.  

Once again, if you buy an OPPO 103, you get a fantastic BluRay, a variable output pre-amp, multiple inputs, and a programmable remote. 

Uh oh, to avoid a pissing contest, from the installation guide.

B&O INPUT

Remember to set the B&O INPUT switch to YES.

3rd party product using TOSLINK (S/P-DIF) 

Connect 3rd party products to the BeoLab Transmitter 1 using TOSLINK cables. The volume of the signal must be adjusted from the audio system.

B&O INPUT

Remember to set the B&O INPUT switch to NO

Maybe I’m missing something here, but can you give me an example of an audio system where the volume is controlled by spdif? Sure I can lower the volume of an Apple TV for example in iTunes, but that wouldn't give me a bit perfect signal, would it?

I also can’t understand why B&O started with optical-in for their latest BL17/18. In practice, how would you daisy-chain 2 BL18’s in each corner of the room, fireplace in between, with a fiber cable? Why not coaxial like they did with the BL5? A lot easier to install. Cheaper too…

Also the BS9000, BC2 and BS5 with their coaxial spdif will send audio at a 100% volume. I thought these where were meant to feed Beolabs with digital inputs. You can’t use it to feed BL18's, even if you use coaxial-to-optical convertor. So where is B&O heading with these optical inputs?

symmes wrote:

Uh oh, to avoid a pissing contest, from the installation guide.

B&O INPUT

Remember to set the B&O INPUT switch to YES.

3rd party product using TOSLINK (S/P-DIF) 

Connect 3rd party products to the BeoLab Transmitter 1 using TOSLINK cables. The volume of the signal must be adjusted from the audio system.

B&O INPUT

Remember to set the B&O INPUT switch to NO

That was exactly what I was referring to in my post above!

There is even a paper version of the manual in the box with the Transmitter1.

MM

@DoubleU

the 'optical connection-thing' with the new B&O gear is a mystery to me too.

MM

Thank you all for your replies and input.

Reading some of your comments it is probable that some of you have direct connections to B&O, or are on the technical side of this business.

I am not a particularly technically savvy individual.

I am a customer, a successful business person who is willing to commit a great deal of money for something beautiful and enjoyable.

At the time of purchase in early December there were no manuals to look at - the first time manuals entered the picture was at delivery!

There was a long conversation with the B&O Sales Manager about what my needs and desires were and how did those match up with the capabilities of the wireless system.

I made it very clear that this system needed to be connected to my new "smart" TV and that this was not going to be a B&O tv and that I wanted the system also to be connected to my B&O 3200 and that I wanted to use my iTunes via AirPlay.

It would have been reasonable to hear from my b&O sales contact that if you use a non B&O TV you need to purchase a TV with variable external speaker volume control or failing that you need to buy a 3rd party pre-ampl.

Even better the dealer would have at his disposal a list of TV"s that fall into that category. For example none of the Samsung TV's have this but some of the Sony's do.

This information would have afforded me the opportunity of choice. The choice to buy the B&O system or not, and in my case which TV to buy.

To be perfectly frank I did not think I needed installers. It never came up during the purchase conversation that making this system work was so challenging that you needed installers.

My guys happen to be there to move my old and install my new TV and to hide all the cables behind the wall. They are a decent and generally competent bunch, but clearly not trained on the intricacies of B&O technology. However, even they could have walked on water, neither they or I knew or could have known about the TV connections issue and therefore did not have the right equipment in place - this needed to be addressed during the purchase conversation.

With regards to using the "B&O Input yes or no".

This is not an issue of B&O or not, it becomes an issue when it is B&O and 3rd party equipment.  Proof: When I connect my B&O 3200 and the Playmaker, the wireless system does not work. When I unplug either one, the system works. This happens regardless of which position the switch is in.

This aspect also was not know by the Sales Representative at the time of purchase.

There is one other aspect I did not cover yesterday in my original post. For reasons of space efficiency I had placed my Playmaker on top of the Transmitter. I was unable to use the Air Play function from my iPhone/itunes. In investigating this further I discovered that as both units are wireless they interfere with each other. Proof: the moment I moved the Playmaker to a further location this problem went away. 

Maybe this is also covered in the bowels of one of the manuals, however, I have not found it.

This then brings me to the last point. What Ferrari is to automobiles, B&O is to the world of audio.

Both of them provide pride of ownership and joy. Both are beautifully designed and made of exquisite material and have the ability to perform at the highest level. I am fortunate enough to own both and will add one other thing they have in common - the most useless and non-user friendly manuals in the Universe. I have suggested to Ferrari to take a paige out of the Mercedes manuals and I will suggest to B&O to take a lesson from Bose. 

I am sure that the B&O manuals have all the technical terms and information needed - however, it is not delivered in a format that is readily understood by your average enthusiastic but not technnoguru customer. If this makes me an idiot - so be it! However, it is idiots like me who pay the bill!

I have recently installed a Bose system with sound bar in my office - what a breeze. And guess what - the TV using Optical Out worked perfectly well and can be controlled by the Bose remote. 

Net, net - I look forward to many years of enjoyment and without doubt this issue will be resolved, it will just require more time and more money.

I also would like to re-iterate that the technical support folks at B&O are going out of their way to help me solve this issue

All of this frustration could have been avoided with more pro-active communication and information.