If the punch of the bassdrum seems to come a little bit later from the subwoofer than from the mainspeaker, the sub is "slow".

I don't know the B&W PV1 sub mentioned above, but I do know that the basic REL (the Quake) does a very good job. The price is around EUR 450,- which is very good value for money.

Well, I know, most of you recommend the PV1. Actually, BL2 is the easy choice: one just has fully compatible B&O items and only needs PowerLink connections. But, right, PV1 is better (and BL9s are even better). So, how do I connect a PV1 to my setup?

- In order to relief the BL8000s from playing the lower bass, they need to be connected to the BL2: can one do that with the PV1?

- One needs a PowerLink to coaxial cable in order to connect the sub to the audio master's PowerLink: will the PV1 start and go to standby together with the BL8000s?

Cheers, Jean-Sebastien

One thing the PV1 will not allow you to do is 'relieve' the BeoLab 8000s of the lower bass, they'll just carry on playing it regardless of whether a subwoofer is connected or not. This is, to be honest, the biggest advantage of the BeoLab 2 over other subs, is that it's designed to work specifically with B&O speakers.

Honestly, get the BeoLab 9s. There is now way you'll be able to get 8000s sounding anything like Lab9s, they're streets ahead not just in terms of bass performance, but also in terms of midrange and especially treble...

As already mentioned, BL9s will be your best solution in my opinion, also baring in mind the size of you room. I think it goes without saying that BL5s would work brilliantly in such a large room, but I appreciate that these speakers are unfortunately not affordable to everyone.

Dave wrote:

You get a powerlink to coaxial cable and connect the sub to the BS4 powerlink (if you have the BL3's daisy chained 🙂)

Then all you have to do is set the bass setting to it's lowest on the BS4, and tweak the crossover and volume settings on the PV1, voila, BL2 beater. 

I know this thread is a bit outdated, but I am considering buying a sub to go with my two BL4000s and Apple Airport Express. I am considering the PV1 (second hand due to my student budget) since it is supposedly a very good sub and also a fair bit cheaper than the new BL11 (which you cannot by second hand). The problem is then the lack of frequency splitter in the PV1. The solution from Dave seams to me to be a bit slacky. Wouldn't it be almost impossible to make the transition in from lower frequencies to higher once smooth and even?

If yes, then the new BL11 seams to be the only good option. Has anoyne compared it to the PV1?

Thanks,

Thomas

If you don't have a surround processor or some other way to change what frequencies go to the sub vs. your beolab 4000s, then get a B&O sub. 

I have a BS1 surround processor and recently because of suggestions here went the a B&W asw850 (their former highest end sub and way more powerful than the PV1) and it is awesome.