"Beolab 2 is slow": what does it mean?

15 replies

Dear all,

I have quite a large living room (about 120 sqm) where my BL8000s sound a little weak. I know I'd better buy BL9s, but I want to keep my BL8000s for the moment so I am considering adding a BL2. Note that I am listening to music only (no home cinema in this room)

Some of you said in previous threads that BL2 is slow. The concept of speed for a subwoofer is strange to me, so I am sorry that it could be a stupid question, but what does it mean exactly?

Subsequent question: which are the consequences of having a slow subwoofer? Does it deliver a distorted or unphased sound (and therefore would it be preferable not to have such a subwoofer at all to play music; I understand the answer may be different for movies)?

Thanks a lot for your input. Kind regards,

Jean-Sebastien

I find the lab 2 can struggle with certain types of music, sometimes it seems a little boomy which I feel is because it struggles to cope with all thats going on like say indie music as an example but then on say dance music it sounds awesome!

In answer to your question, once you have a lab2, there is no going back! despite this "slowness" it really is a must have addition and I for one would not go without.

For music one needs a subwoofer that is accurate and precise. It is felt by many that the BL2 is just to 'boomy' to provide that accurate sound experience.

There is only one 'driver' cone on the bl2 the other 'speakers' in the unit are 'passive radiators' that work in symapthy with the main driver so you might be able to imagine that this adds a lack of distinct bass sounds.

How many time are we going to reccommend the PV1 for setup's like these 😕 Here goes anyway,

Try the Bowers & Wilkins PV1! It's fast (accurate), perfect for music and half the price of a BL2. The BL2 with its passive radiators, when listening to music, spoil the lower register - to my ears. I disliked what the BL2 did to my BL4000's

You get a powerlink to coaxial cable and connect the sub to the BS4 powerlink (if you have the BL3's daisy chained 🙂)

Then all you have to do is set the bass setting to it's lowest on the BS4, and tweak the crossover and volume settings on the PV1, voila, BL2 beater. 

I agree with Moxxey, get a pair of Beolab 9's. If you want to keep the Beolab 8000's and add a sub than I would choose the Bowers & Wilkins PV1 as suggested by the rest. Amazing sub, really 🤒

Well, I know, most of you recommend the PV1. Actually, BL2 is the easy choice: one just has fully compatible B&O items and only needs PowerLink connections. But, right, PV1 is better (and BL9s are even better). So, how do I connect a PV1 to my setup?

- In order to relief the BL8000s from playing the lower bass, they need to be connected to the BL2: can one do that with the PV1?

- One needs a PowerLink to coaxial cable in order to connect the sub to the audio master's PowerLink: will the PV1 start and go to standby together with the BL8000s?

Cheers, Jean-Sebastien

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