Hey trackbeo,

Thank you for your reply! 

Maybe I should have phrased the question differerently, tbh. 

 -> I was wondering mainly if powerlink signals were for some reason to quiet/weak for usulal line input on (working) equipment of other manufactuers. <-

I have not yet tried to connect the sub to a proper amp, but I connected the line level input to my smartphone the other day. It was louder than over Powerlink, but also rather unimpressive. I guess my luck with the classifieds had to end at some point :P 

How exactly do you have it wired? Details. Is it possible you're only getting one channel of signal off the PL? Say, L or R not both? I've used PL out from my BS9000 to drive an outboard amp and it worked fine, no level issues, it drove the amp perfectly.

Unless the sub is defective, which it seems not to be if it works via a phone/tablet or such, something in how its connected seems to be an issue. Can you describe in more precise detail how it's wired, and what inputs on the sub are available and which you're using?

beoboehm wrote:

 -> I was wondering mainly if powerlink signals were for some reason to quiet/weak for usulal line input on (working) equipment of other manufactuers. <-

/forum/general-discussion-and-questions/beo4---what-version

One person there says Powerlink outputs 0-600mv.  Another person says both Aux.Out and PowerLink are spec'ed at 1V.  Without evidence, I believe the latter because B&O was shipping around low-level signals on long-ish cables: they should have chosen either "standard line level" or maybe an even higher proprietary signal voltage, just to avoid S/N problems with transmission.  

My electronics is a little weak, but if you are splitting your cable without an amplifier, wouldn't you expect each half to have a lower signal, depending proportionally upon the impedance each presents to the source?  Or maybe Jeff's Left+Right conjecture is correct and you're not getting both sides' bass...

Here is a quick diagram of the cabling layout i used.

The BL8000s work absolutely fine with this setup. 

I tested the R/L chanels. Both seem to work ->subwoofer works (quietly) with either one of them disconnected.

That should work, it's how I'd have done it. Is there any way you can get a different sub, even on loan from a friend, to see if it's the sub itself? The input impedances of the Beolab and the Sub should be high enough that splitting it shouldn't be an issue, not for line level signals like that. Maybe try swapping the Y connectors to make sure one isn't defective in some oddball way?

Thank you, Jeff! 

Good to know that this setup "should" work! 

I really think that I bought a broken Sub. After listening and trying a few times I noticed that its (low) volume is inconsistent and sometimes it buzzes in various ways.
Probably some bad capacitors in the amp, not sure if its worth fixing, bulky and ugly as it is. 

Buy cheap, buy twice. 

beoboehm wrote:

Thank you, Jeff! 

Good to know that this setup "should" work! 

I really think that I bought a broken Sub. After listening and trying a few times I noticed that its (low) volume is inconsistent and sometimes it buzzes in various ways.
Probably some bad capacitors in the amp, not sure if its worth fixing, bulky and ugly as it is. 

Buy cheap, buy twice. 

Sadly often true, but not always. So worth a shot. It does sound like something might be odd with the sub. Hope you get it all sorted out and find a sub that works for you.