I currently use a B&W PV1 with my BeoLab 6000s, I also have a BL 2 connected to a pair of BL 8000s. To be honest, the B&W PV1 - which you can get for around $600 on eBay easily outperforms the BL 2 in my humble opinion with the Bass sounding much deeper and more powerful. The Klipsh would be also excellent for excellent for movies as long as you go with a 12 inch and up size woofer.

Not that I'm jeopardizing the thread but since we're talking about subwoofer, what's the best active subwoofer for movies under $2000 ? I heard SVS make some nice one.

Hi guys - thanks very much for your answers,

1) do you think the Canton will bring enough to the beolab 8000 to make the difference?

2) I love the BW PV1D that could be an option, ideally it would be a similar/compact/powerful spec like that under 500$

Thanks

Nicoco wrote:

do you think the Canton will bring enough to the beolab 8000 to make the difference?

My opinion: If you're playing movies, then you really want that extra frequency range for an excellent bangboom!  If music, well, you know what you're listening to and whether another half-octave matters.  But since you bought "design-y" speakers, I would also let your design sense help guide you: If you like the way the PV1 looks with BL8000's then definitely get it.  If you prefer the "surprise factor" from a hidden bass speaker that magically improves the 8000s, make sure you have the clearance underneath your sofa and go for the Canton.

Hey Guys, 

I also wanted to improve the low end of my BL 8000 without spending 1000€ on a 15 year old sub. 

I bought a sub second hand to test the setup.

I have a similar (test)setup over Powerlink, but my subwoofer seems kind of quiet, bit dissapointing tbh. 

My setup is the following: 

-Beocenter 2 

-2x Beolab 8000

-1x Boson Accoustics Subwoofer ( HPS 8Wi )

2 PL-Y Adapters 

1 PL-RCA Adapter

It seems that the line level coming from the Beocenter over PL is too quiet for the subwoofer to be effective. Subwoofer gain/volume is maxed, but there is barely anything coming through. Sometimes the subwoofers does not even turn on when playing at normal listening volumes. 

I'm not looking for earth shattering rumble but max sub volume should sound differently in my imagination.

Did I do something wrong with the cabeling? 

Is it the wrong subwoofer?

Is the Subwoofer defective? (It was a cheap used one to test the concept)

Did someone else have a similar problem? 

Is that type of setup an option at all? :D 

^ Bump

You got no answers because nobody wants to flame away with wild guesses, not really *knowing* the truth for you.  Hey, ignorance never stopped me, so I'll venture,... with a concrete example:

I have a pair of Definitive Technology Mythos (SST) that I pulled out of storage.  This model had a powered bass driver built in to the regular speaker.  One Mythos works perfectly, but the other one's bass volume is *way* low; you must turn its bass control up to max just to get it to play like the other speaker, which is only set to about 20%.  It needs a new plate amplifier (or repairs, but DefTech doesn't do that).  So that is my guess for your system: the powered subwoofer's amp is failing.  

It's easy to test, but only if you can open it up and disconnect the built-in amp from the speaker, and have a spare amplifier to take the LFE as line input and amplify it to speaker(s).  (Yes, you can test it with just speaker wire to any old amp, but it'll sound like garbage because without some filter circuit, it'll try to play all the high frequencies too!  No, I don't know whether sending it a whizzing treble frequency can burn its voice coil, sorry.)  A more general test method would be to eliminate all the B&O-ness and the multi-speaker splitting: Try the subwoofer with some other system.  If you play any movie, rock music, or percussive classical, on any subwoofer at a 50% control setting, you should be able to hear *and* see and feel the speaker cone moving like crazy -- really, moving *a lot*; it's obvious.  Good luck!