Hi styppen,

Yes, this is possible!  You will need to find an MCL2AV link room box, the matching IR receiver (rectangular version) and some MCL cable to connect this to the Speaker 2 outlets of the Beomaster.  Your Passive amp can then plug into the MCL2AV with a fully wired Powerlink cable to run the extra speakers, with separate control of the mains system from the kitchen:-

(For Steve's solution) If you don't already have a Beolink Passive, then consider buying an MCL2P amplifier instead.  This has basically the same functions, but with the advantage of having a 15v dc power output that is meant to power the MCL2AV - this saves having to find a separate power supply.

Hi Steve, thanks for your reply!

Is the rectangular IR receiver really necessary in this setup with MCL2AV? 

My wish is to have a Beolink Passive with the circular IR eye. Correct me if I'm wrong, but the way I understand, the IR eye controls the Passive amp. That means that by pressing PLAY button the Passive amp is turned on and whatever audio signal comes to the Powerlink input on the Passive would be played on the speakers in the Kitchen. Additionally, I would like to control the volume of the Passive amp in the kitchen with the volume buttons on the IR eye. I don't really need the timer functionality.

Now the question is, how is the audio signal sent to the Passive? One way is MCL2AV as you suggested and then connecting the Passive amp to the Powerlink output on the MCL2AV. Since the audio signal coming from Speakers 2 output is at speaker level, is the signal then attenuated in the MCL2AV to line level? This means that the audio signal coming out of MLC2AV Powerlink output is on line level?

I was also thinking about the preamp outputs on the Beomaster 5500. These are standard RCA/Phono outputs meant for power amplifier. This would mean that the signal in preamp outputs is line level. Could I use the preamp outputs on the Beomaster 5500 and use the triggered Powerlink cable from SoundsHeavenly and send line level audio signal to the Passive amp? This approach sounds to me like a bit of a hack and I would lose the MCL functionality but I would get the desired results.

L Spad wrote:

... or use a BeoLink 1611 converter to go from MCL to ML if you’re keen to use the BeoLink passive with the circular ‘eye’. Steve’s option will work out significantly cheaper I’d have thought. The only reason you might go this way is if you’d like to build a bigger ML based system over time e.g. adding a BeoVision to the mix at some point

good luck!

I did some research on the Beolink Converter 1611. The device has three ports: TV/AUX (Datalink), Powerlink and Masterlink. Correct me if I'm wrong, but the TV/AUX Datalink port on the Beomaster 5500 is only an input. Right now I have a non-B&O TV connected to the TV/AUX input.

I am a bit confused as to how the Beolink Converter would be incorporated into the setup I am trying to achieve. Could you explain it in more details?

styppen wrote:

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the TV/AUX Datalink port on the Beomaster 5500 is only an input.

It's an output as well - you can check this for yourself if you look at the circuit diagram in the service manual. All 7 pins are connected.

styppen wrote:

I am a bit confused as to how the Beolink Converter would be incorporated into the setup I am trying to achieve. Could you explain it in more details?

You connect the Beolink Converter 1611 to the BM5500 (TV/AUX socket) with a 7-pin A.AUX cable only.  Then run ML cable from the 1611 to the kitchen, where it would connect to the BL passive as an input.  Then connect the round 'hockey puck' IR sensor to the passive, and also connect your passive (CX50) speakers.  

If the Aux-in is already engaged, you will have to use the suggestion from Steve = MCL (to a 2A) with a 2P or passive unit as amp.

The 1611 converter that you must use for driving a MasterLink bus (Passive kit with round ir-eye) needs the Aux connection to work.

This means - if you want to keep the 5500, you should use MCL.

If you want the option of having ML (maybe for further rooms), you must exchange your master and get one with built-in ML socket (the Aux there can then be used independently for your non-B&O tv).

MM

The 1611 converter connects to the aux datalink socket on your beomaster 5500. You then can connect it to ML sources using the masterlink socket on the converter. The 1611 functions to convert the ML data language to the MCL language your beomaster 5500 speaks. I can see the problem if you are already using your aux input for a non B&O tv. The powerlink socket on the 1611 converter is purely there to allow ML devices to respond to button presses on your beomaster 5500 in certain option cases.

The two solutions offered differ slightly in cost but the fundamental difference is that if you use Steve’s solution you are sticking to the MCL system. I had a reasonably large MCL based system for a long time. It’s great in that it allows the use of 2 way controllers like the BeoLink 7000. It also benefits from allowing the addition of local sources via its 3 datalink inputs (see Steve’s great tutorial on connecting multiple beograms). Having said that MCL is old now and parts are becoming hard to find. in Steve’s suggestion the BeoLink passive is purely acting as a dumb amplifier - all of the control is handled by the mcl2av. That a means you must use the rectangular IR receiver - the circular one will not work in this setup (as far as I’m aware - you may be able to hack it)

The solution I suggested opens the door to a masterlink based system and makes use of the features of the BeoLink passive to control source selection as well as acting as the amplifier in your link room. This means you must use the circular IR receiver. All of the necessary cables and items are available frequently on eBay so it might be easier to get up and running via this route. From the original post I wasn’t aware your aux input was committed - you could connect the TV to the tape2 input?

Given that the passive is required for either solution the deciding factor is the relative cost and availability of an mcl2av, MCL cable and the rare and hard to find 4 pin speaker link connectors versus the cost of a 1611 converter and masterlink cable. Obviously Steve can supply all cables (thanks as ever for the great service Steve)

Forvthe record I’ve made extensive use of both options in my home setup  (at one point simultaneously - ML indoors and MCL in the garden). As far as I know these are the only two options that are ‘officially supported’ - you may be able to hack something but I imagine you’d spend a lot of time and effort for a less good outcome. Just my 2p

Sorry - my mistake - just remembered the 5500 Doesn’t have separate aux/tape 2 input as the 6500 and 7000 do. I upgraded from a 5500 to a 7000 a while ago and forgot the different inputs. As such Steve’s suggestion is likely your only viable solution 

Here are the connections of the 5500.

With a 7000 it will be easier - as already suggested use the A.Tape 2 for the tv and the A.aux for the 1611 converter.

Or go the simple and low cost way of MCL....which should be fine for just one room.

MM