hello, to the potentiometer you get up very quickly, the aluminum cover with the sliding gliders is just plugged

in and can be easily levered up with a little feeling!

To get to the attachment of the scale pointer, you have to take the unit a little more apart!

Unscrew the three screws on the floor (please check the service manual), now you can open the device like a book☺!

The aluminum plate with scala is held by 4 screws at the corners, the movable scalene pointer is clamped to the scalp rope with 2 screws.

Bingo ! great Wilfried !

I was little dissapoint about ... looking at the drawing for long  but I didn't understood .

Just plug in ! I was afraid to break it .

I was able to take off the plate with scala . OK now is naked .

 I add some picture , may be useful for others 

completely apart

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to remove plate with keyboard 

1.screw

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2 .just turn this screw  a little  Login to view image

Last pull off the left end

this is the tone panel as Wilfried said ; just pull off 

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Thanks ,

I'll be back with the restore

Bye

Gabriele

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hello Gabriele,

Thank you for the picture documentation of disassembling the beomaster 1001 (1200).

I had not indicated the small hidden screw to stabilize the key unit; in all of my dismantled Masters 1001 and 1200

it was no longer available except for one.

Your Beomaster looks visually good and has a complete scaler (with wheels ?).

But tell me, why did you solder out the board with the DIN sockets?

Your workbench equipment looks professional, everything you need is there!

W.Frankenberg wrote:

I had not indicated the small hidden screw to stabilize the key unit; in all of my dismantled Masters 1001 and 1200

it was no longer available except for one.

yes , but can be view , I'll take a better picture .

W.Frankenberg wrote:

Your Beomaster looks visually good and has a complete scaler (with wheels ?).

But tell me, why did you solder out the board with the DIN sockets?

Yes look good , just some number on volume panel are  shaded .

I take off the din board to have access a died helko : start to ruin the pcb.. was little humming on tape.

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So I start a total recap : every time I replace the caps give a test , and start another pcb 

recap fm board >test OK

recap preamplifier board + Output caps > test OK

recap main amp / power suplly : check....NO FM 

just normal noise , like no input plug to the source...

Damn ..

Power supplies are fine just  -18V on big cap(C467) differ from -23V on sch.

when fm or p1-3 button are pressed dc voltage appear on fm module with right value , but I can't not see any oscillation on module and neither on output of fm module . Here should be in AF .

I suspect for a problem on switch board . There a 20cm bus where switch are soldered ; over this pcb there is a layer a sort of plastic pcb for to get a sord of dual layer pcb ... look at pic sorry for my english.

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I want check the solder point on that pcb .

No one experieced ?

Ciao

Forget . but  very important ...

the amp sound very good from tape input !

hello gabriele,

I assume that FM was ok before the recap.

If the audio signal on TAPE and PHONO is well reproduced, you can already have no error in the preamp in the power amplifier and in the power supply produced.

I do not believe that on the plastic board of the Feh

If you switch on FM, P1, P2, or P3, actually only the control voltage for the ZF board and the FM tuner will be switched!

Now can the tuning voltage reach the diode tuner, can it be adjusted correctly?

A simple (stupid) question: does the FM bulb light up its brightness?

if this is not the case, you will not work zf level if the bulb itself is ok.

If the bulb is lit, at least the ZF stage is working.

Is there at least a background noise?

Do you have a good antenna signal?

did you change the four tantalum elkos on the switchboard when you recap?

could something have happened while soldering there?

You have described that in the power supply the -23V are not correct, you can still adjust the + 33.3V correctly?

I would adjust the voltage and adjustment for FM ZF and Tuner again.

ok, many words, many questions!

By the way, you've saved the preamp board well and hopefully you get rid of the electrolyte well.

On the capacitors you would also without unsoldering the DIN board come, if you had only removed the 6 screws of the rear metal rail.

P.s.. My english come Form Google translater 😂

Lot of information many thanks ,

before another repair-session let see little further :

W.Frankenberg wrote:

I assume that FM was ok before the recap.

If the audio signal on TAPE and PHONO is well reproduced, you can already have no error in the preamp in the power amplifier and in the power supply produced.

W.Frankenberg wrote:

I do not believe that on the plastic board of the Feh

Just suspect , When was lit for fist time only p1,2&3 were working . FM just background noise .I played with button on/off and start sound .

but when switch from Px to FM take about 1-2 second before play in "crescendo" arising .Put some deoxit and fixit . But may be false contact again ..

W.Frankenberg wrote:

If you switch on FM, P1, P2, or P3, actually only the control voltage for the ZF board and the FM tuner will be switched!

Yes Wilfried but , if I see on SM  ,when push p1xfm button, they should set the resistor "tuning" R163...167

may the common line of these on 100k pot do not close the loop (to R153). I'm not expert in hf ..

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W.Frankenberg wrote:

Is there at least a background noise?

Do you have a good antenna signal?

Yes for antenna & background noise (like noise on tape in select without any connector , just noise)

W.Frankenberg wrote:

Now can the tuning voltage reach the diode tuner, can it be adjusted correctly?

A simple (stupid) question: does the FM bulb light up its brightness?

if this is not the case, you will not work zf level if the bulb itself is ok.

If the bulb is lit, at least the ZF stage is working

these are to be checked , but , what you mean for zf ? I mean Z62 power supply to first module on FM pcb .

W.Frankenberg wrote:

did you change the four tantalum elkos on the switchboard when you recap?

could something have happened while soldering there?

No Tantalum replacement ; checking ok for short on switchboard 

when I solder there I used the FM for two days ; Today I only touch final stage pcb . But anyway I also checked all solder point and" hammer" the pcb .

W.Frankenberg wrote:

You have described that in the power supply the -23V are not correct, you can still adjust the + 33.3V correctly?

I would adjust the voltage and adjustment for FM ZF and Tuner again.

I have checked PS at about 33 V so I left so .

I've never tuned a decoder . I've 100MHz scope and a digital scope (often used as BW  analyzer ) and thd tester . Generator till 10M .

I can easy check the dc value on SM... 

Damn! was working & singing very well

Many thanks wilfried for yours precious suggestions