The AUX input to the 1611 is standard - any off-the-shelf connector will do although make sure that the AUX end is the output, rather than input.  See here for details of audio aux link:

Many thanks Guy,

I am trying to get it to work, but it’s not. However, I don’t have the Beo4 remote and am trying it with the Logitech Harmony Hub. This can simulate pretty much any remote. 

if I remove the IR Eye, should it play sound anyway ? If so I could try that as part of the diagnosis as to what is not working. 

UPDATE

I have got it working, but found my main problem was that in my test room, the IR Eye is not responding to Remote Commands from my Harmony Connect Remote. The IR Eye in another room is working perfectly with my Harmony Remote. 

Perhaps I have a partially faulty IR Remote ? It responds to manual presses and adjusted  vole  , switches On/Off etc but does not respond to IR. When I press the remote buttons, the IT lower LED on the Eye does flash in the same way the other room does. 

Any ideas what to do about the IR Eye for this partially working situation ?

Many thanks

Bob

Good news that you now have something working!

I was not aware that any of the Harmony remotes could control B&O equipment.  You may not be aware that B&O use a different frequency (455kHz) for their IR transmissions, hence very few other products are able to control them.

However, given that one of the two B&O IR sensors is working, it would seem that the other is faulty.  If it is getting power that is something, but perhaps there is a faulty data connection?  Do the volume buttons on the IR eye work?  Oops - I should read your post!

Let me research another thought and get back to you ...

When I lived in Milton Keynes there was a dealer there - now sadly closed.  You could have nipped round and borrowed a remote!

Perhaps a fellow forum member lives locally and could lend you a remote for testing?  I am pretty sure that there used to be a couple.

Hi Guy and bwel,

In order to work as an "ML driver" (ie. to act as an Audio Master to an ML network), the 1611 converter must be the later type that carries the full type number 1161166 on the sticker.  The converter should not have an IR eye connected to it, but each link room box (ie. Beolink Passive/Active) that is connected to it via Masterlink will need to have a working IR eye connected.

the music source will connect to the Aux socket of the 1161166 converter as Guy suggested and each link room box can then "call through" the audio from the converter.

I would suggest trying to find a Beolink 1000 or Beo4 remote to get everything working, as 3rd party remotes can be quite troublesome in this type of setup.  If you need any help with cables to get everything connected, please feel free to get in touch via my sponsor link at the foot of the page.

Kind regards, Steve.

Many thanks Guy and Steve,

Most of the setup is now working, but the issue remains with one of the Beolink IR Eyes. These are connected to their respective Beolink Passives. 

I find that from one room, the remote will send the input code source (eg TV) back through the Passive, over ML and in to the 1611 Converter to open up the Aux In audio source. Manual presses of the Eye buttons control volume etc once the Source has been switched in.

When I press the Remote Control buttons, the Red led on the Eye Flashes 

For the second room, the Volume and Mute work ok only with manual presses of the IR Eye, but do not work from the IR remote. It seems that the Remote IR is either not recognised by the Eye or that the link from the Eye via the Beolink Passive is not being transmitted back to the 1611 Converter  

When I press the Remote Control buttons, the Red LED on the Eye Does Not Flash like in Room one  

I’m wondering if it’s; a faulty IR Eye, a broken transmission wire to the Passive or perhaps as Guy mentions, a programming issue of the Eye  

Based on my above summary detail of the symptoms., any further ideas  ?

Many thanks

Bob

Concerning the second room:

The IR Receiver receives the IR signal and sends it to the Beolink passive /active ...

The device where the IR receiver is connected to, triggers the LED after receiving a valid IR code.

If the keys on the IR receiver create an action, the IR Receiver is probably not receieving a valid signal. This leads me to the dreaded SMD capacitor for the IR receiver chip ( C10, 22µF 10V ).

You could try to swap the IR receivers and see what happens: if the fault moves to the other room it's the IR receiver. If the fault stays in the second room then it could be one (or more problems) in ascending order:

- Cable in the IR receiver (partly) disconnected

- Cable betwwen Beolink passive and IR receiver damaged

- (IR) Cable not properly connected to Beolink passive or plugged into PowerLink connector.

- IR Connection in Beolink passive defect

Many thanks Ralph,

Given that the Second Room IR receiver works with manual button presses, but not IR Control, it must be definitely plugged in to the correct DIN on the Passive Amp, 

I can try swapping the IR Receiver over tomorrow with another room. But do you think that it could be the Room Option Coding that was also suggested above ?

I have an Beo4 ordered that arrives in a few days, so can also test that later. 

Many thanks

Bob