Turbo wrote:

go with replacements from an other supplier. I have gone with the latest alternative and I will get back on the deails, -not so easy way to go...

Please keep us updated. I'm not really enthusiastic about replacing my rotting midranges with OEM units.

Hi,

I've (almost) finished my first 'beolab RL7000' 🙂  (= RL7000 + ICE200ASC).

There's a powerlinkconnection and a powersupply added at the rear and a led to the front (behind the speakercloth)!

The ICE200ASC is next to the crossover.  The caps of the crossover are also updated.  I used Audyncap this time.  Just because I could find most of the correct values in their assortiment.  Only the 27uF was a problem and I made that one from a 22uF and a 4,7uF.  The 22uF is hidden under the crossover.

I've taken care to separate all the cables to avoid interference.  Mind the cable to the right.  This one goes to the bicolor LED.  I used a shielded 4wire cable (used for telephone) for this one.  I used the same cable for connection from the powerlink to the ICE200ASC.

The cable from the ICE to the crossover is the original one, but I twisted it.

The only problem left is the autopower on and off.  I connected the 'speaker on' from the powerlink to the 'signal sense' of the ICE, but that's no good.  I'll try the 'Auto_on/off' next week.

Mind the little green led behind the clotch.  I used a 3mm bicolor LED.  Therefor I drilled a 3mm hole through the chassis.  A nasty job to avoid touching the cloth, but I succeeded. 🙂

So next week the Auto On/off, the other speaker and next month the foam rot 😭.

And for the sound.... Well I only modded one speaker, it has foamrot and it's till burning in, but the sound feels relaxed and enough power to swing the RL7000 😐.

Kind regards
Joost 

Interesting, I'm still trying to pick a set up.

You forgot to ground the IcePower board (centre hole on the board). You'll have an earth loop without it.

You shouldn't twist audio leads as it makes them into a transducer.

What's with the wire running from the 47v point used to power second boards?

A.

Hi Andy,

The wire running from the 47V point is the ground 🙂.  I read the tip on the site of that Dutch guy.  Pin 2 is the same as the ground hole in the centre of the board.  I used the groundwire which is present in the B&O powerlink cable.  Well I don't have a 'hum-sound', so I have the impression it works well.

I didn't know that twisting the audio leads was a problem.  It is even recommended in the IcePower Designer's Manual (p6).

The only thing I still have to sort out is the on/off.  The powerlink cable has a speaker-on signal, so it should work somehow. If I can't sort it out, I'll use the Signal Sense.

Kind regards

Joost

The board looks for an AC signal (signal sense) so the signal on/off from powerlink wont work (I'm presuming it's DC).

Fair enough on the 47v being ground I wasn't aware of it.

Pg6 is about reducing EMI to pass EU restrictions, I would follow one of their other examples (none twisted) if it were me, but the difference isn't going to be audiable for that wire length. Pg8 is more appropriate IMHO.

Any update on the sound quality using the redline's?

I may order another two 250ASC's for when I find some 140/7000's.

Cheers,

A.

Hello,

As mentioned above, I finished one RL7000 and just refoamed the woofer. I just have to fit them back in the speaker.

But as I have just become father of our first son, my priorities have shifted a little :-).

Soundquality seems good, but I'm no professional in judging these kind of things.  I have a little hum in the tweeter.   I'll have to take a closer look at that.  Maybe the ground...

PS: I paid 250 EUR for a pair of RL7000, with stands, but also with foamrot :-).

Kind regards

Joost

Gelukwensen Joost!!

Thx!

The end of night's rest :-), but maybe a new beolover :-)

I had a party at the weekend and the pentas were on full for 8 hours 😁. Towards the end the amps started overheating and I lost the left one for a bit. The icepower has a 12v out, I might run a very quiet PC fan over the board next time.