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Hi Andrew,

You've got PM.

I'm not that technical, but I was wondering if would not be a good thing to build a netcurrentfilter in front of the ASC200?  Just to cleanup thing a bit before the current enters the ASC200.

Joost

Replied with manuals :)

Dont waste your time IMHO with the netcurrentfilter. The ASC's are very plug-in-play. Couple of connections and that's it sorted. Try them and you'll see how spot on they are "out-the-box". Regards, Andrew

Andrew,

Great, thanks.

Postman with ASC's was at the door, but I wasn't home 🙁

Kind regards

Joost

Hi,

Amps arrived!

A few questions:

1. I'm tempted to place to amp close to the tweeter (nice symmetric in the speaker) in the RL7000.  Can the heavy magnet do any harm to the prestations of the amp?

2. The amps has the possibility to connect balanced audiosignal.  I think the audiosignal in powerlink isn't balanced.  But I believe the signal on the masterlink is.  Am I right?

3. The connections for the sound to the amp are +, - and GRND.  Powerlink has left, right and signal chassis.  So I believe I have to connect left (or right) to the + of the amp and signal chassis to - (which has to be shorted to GRND on the amp because there is no balanced signal).  Am I right?  I know this is a beginners question, but so I am :-)

Kind regards

Joost

A fascinating thread.

Has anyone researched the possibilities to make a mod like this to Beovox 5000 panels? It'll be a very tight fit and feasibility could be questionable (wall installation, an additional wire to hide), but being able to lose the separate power amp between Ouverture and speakers might be worth the trouble.

Hi Henri,  I too was thinking the same thing :-)

1. Only if close to the transformer, but even then the splash out will be minimal and make no difference. You'd be extremely unlucky if it did, and worst case it would shut down the board and go into protection mode. I've got mine pretty close to those big transformers used in the Pentas crossover and it's fine.

2. I'm using unbalanced from my PC, which is why the ground connection is essential to get rid of the earth loop (hum). The device can certainly take either with no problems (see manual I sent). I think with balanced the sensitivity is greater.

3. signal chassis = ground. In the middle of the board is a hole where the ground connection lead goes to. Connect it there or to your mains ground lead. Balanced or unbalanced go to +/- signal input (last two pins of the connection). Don't forget to put + signal also to pin 4 for auto wakeup/standby.

Good luck. Nearly won some RL140's on eBay but couldn't get down London way to collect them :(

Andrew

me too, there are lots of RL35's, and RL45, 45.2, 60 and 60.2, but hardly any of the RL140's pop up, they can be driven quite hard  :-)

Long-term max. input power - 200 watts
Maximum noise power - 140 watts

snoopy wrote:

I dont understand why you want to fix something that isn't broke. The midrange from my Pentas is exceptional, especially the imaging. Mine have had very little use, so perhaps your caps are shot or the driver coils are fried. As cheap as they may have been, they are very good.

They are not, and was not exceptional, they are not as good as the rest of the construction. But that is of course my personal oppinion and I hope you are not affended by that. Even the originals in good condition have some improvement possibilytis in my oppinion.

My originals are not in good condition they are in the early stage of foam rotting, there are several ways to deal with this, re-foaming, new elements from B&O or go with replacements from an other supplier. I have gone with the latest alternative and I will get back on the deails, -not so easy way to go...