I think that the "IR out" that you're seeing is the socket for controlling the TV's on/off. The IR out to control source devices such as the Apple TV is the "control" socket in the area of the corresponding source input number.

I have a BeoSystem 4 and two BeoSystems 3. The BeoSystem 4 has the benefits of some custom sound settings and the ability to download PUC files yourself. However, the BeoSystem 3 is still very useful (and affordable). Since you're not using it for video, you will not be able to see the menu overlay. So you'll need to remember or write down what the menu commands are for some devices such as a blu-ray player or cable box. You can temporarily connect the BS3 to the TV for the purpose of seeing what the menu commands are in the menu overlay and write them down. The Apple TV PUC, however, is pretty straightforward and intuitive with the remote buttons.

Since the BeoSystem 3 does not connect to the internet to let you download PUC files, you must take is the your B&O dealer to have your dealer load the PUC files for devices that you'll need. The dealer will likely charge you for this service -- unless you have a really great relationship with your dealer. When you do this, you should plan ahead for various devices such as blu-ray players and common TV brands, etc. so that the PUC files will be there if you need them in the future. The Apple Remote PUC is pretty commonly loaded - so you might already have the Apple Remote PUC loaded.

For the more recent Apple TV models, you'll need to get something to extract the audio from the HDMI to send the audio to the BS3 while sending the video directly to the TV. I'm presuming that you're sending the video directly to the TV because you want 4K. I use an HDFury device to split the video and audio from the HDMI for the Apple TV 4K.

Beojeff,

Thank you for your reply. Indeed I plan to use one HDMI input on the TV as configuration page for the BD3. Having said that, I found out the Bs3 my seller has is a Mk 1. So unless he is willing to accept a very reasonable price I will have to pass. I still believe we will have a new center speaker with some sort of speakers connectivity ready.

Sorry double post

Imho yes. See flash your b&o

Thanks for the tips. Any idea what advantage Mk 2 has over Mk 1? I read in earlier post that Mk 3 has 3D over Mk 2, and suggest to avoid Mk 1.

Little search on the old fourm:

- mk1: not full hd

- mk 2: full hd, ok you need a dealer to program it bur fairly cheap to get

- mk 3: hdmi output instead of dvi-d and 3d (less and less screens providing 3d, so irrelavant imho)

the almando solution works if you don’t mind using different remotes and maybe usefull if no b&o sound system integrated

—-

Martin,

Besides the very large number of software updates which effected both versions and the introduction of "Adaptive Sound Technology", the only core changes provided by the mark 2 I can note from reviewing the spec are:-

1. Formats provide 24 pictures per second
2. FHD 1920 x 1080p
3. There are two system module outputs now with the addition of an "F" connector for the US market

The Mark 1 version has "Type" numbers 9600 to 9612 and was sold between June 2006 and Dec 2008

The Mark 2 version has "Type" numbers 9615 to 9628 and was released around October 2008

Many thanks. So it seems if using BS3 solely as sound processor I am good to go as long as I update it with my dealer (plus I will be missing Adaptive Sound Technology)….

May I ask why you use the Samsung remote instead of Beoremote?