Sorry for the frustration but I don't know if I ever read that post.  I left AK long ago and have not been back.

Oh that part was very appreciated.   I do not work on this every day.   I have kids, house cottage etc.   Its something I get around to when I can. 

Reading comprehension?   What are you referring to?  Memory probably, I have recently had a few bouts of encephalitis which did affect my short term memory.   I do remember you sending that clip but no recollection of the above post.  Its not intentional.   Sorry.

This: (Maybe I should have said memory instead of comprehension)

link  Banned   Join Date: May 2014 Location: MIchigan Posts: 313

What about a flaky mute circuit? Is that a new part?

#link      link 07-05-2014, 01:12 PM

link  Phil   Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: N/W NJ, USA Posts: 1,082

No. The muting relay is mounted on a small circuit board that is part of the DIN plug subassy. The relay is covered by a U shaped piece of springy sheet metal (shielding). Pull it off and the relay is revealed; the clear plastic cover is retained by 2 plastic clips midway on it's long axis. The relay closes and shorts the signal wires when it is de-powered (whenever power to the deck is cut or in use, when TR7 is turned off from supplying relay coil with power) Your issue is (if you're thinking of keeping your unit), to discover if the cartridge is good. You could open the relay, lift the contacts, and slide pieces of paper between them, but to do this, you would need to open up the deck which requires un-hooking the 3 leaf springs as well as opening the case (like a book, it opens). Another possibility is a broken signal wire at the relay-board terminals; the tiny coaxial cables from the tonearm board to the muting board have even tinier/fragile inner wires that are a bit of a PITA to repair when they break; I have had them break from handling when all is apart/loose on the bench. You might have an intermittent connection there. Your best bet is substituting carts, whether a known good one on your deck, or yours on another deck. If you're entertaining keeping your 8002, I'd run a flag up on the TT or general forum with that query ASAP __________________ Yamaha C2-x, TX1000, PX-2; B&O 8002/mmc1&2, Voice, Benz Glider; Marantz DV 9500; Krell FPB 300/B&W Naut 801s link; 07-05-2014 at 01:16 PM. link

#link      link 07-05-2014, 01:18 PM

link  Banned   Join Date: May 2014 Location: MIchigan Posts: 313

Well if I get it for free I might attempt. Its working fine now so for what ever reason one time it had static feeback in parked position. Even if the mute failed why would it make this loud electric sound through the speakers?  What ever it is, it is partial as it works fine most the time. How can it self heal like that?

#link      link 07-05-2014, 02:16 PM

link  Phil   Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: N/W NJ, USA Posts: 1,082

resistive contact in the mute relay is probable. Or it could be broken wiring that is intermittently resistive. Or it could be in the cart. (you can try finding something a little bigger than the cap for a Bic pen. Start play, then move the arm to a spot midway between the edge of the turntable and park position, stick this little block under the arm and hit play. The arm will lay there on the block and the relay will un-mute, (but after a spell, the smart machine will realize that the arm is doing nothing and will return it to the garage and turn itself off!). During this time, you could perform the classic "stress test" to see if the problem is local. The stress test consists of tapping the arm and cart smartly but lightly with maybe a Bic pen, disturbing the cartridge by flexing it a little in its plug. Then go over to the DIN plug and play with that including tapping sharply with the pen as well. This may localize the problem without any disassembling. __________________ Yamaha C2-x, TX1000, PX-2; B&O 8002/mmc1&2, Voice, Benz Glider; Marantz DV 9500; Krell FPB 300/B&W Naut 801s And, going back to these posts, I discovered you were banned there. Hmmm. Maybe I'm not the only one who you've frustrated? (sorry if I seem judgmental, but your lack of "awareness" has certainly frustrated me!) As you can see from the time-stamps, you were actively in this conversation but fail to recall it.

Hey thanks for digging that up.   I have a vague recollection of the first post but not the second.  

I do own this multimeter.  Is this one good enough?

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Now cool it down boys. @rajod, if you want to know if your DMM is good, look for reviews on the net, also how to use it, As Dillen once told someone, we dont educate technicians or electricians, we do like to help, but the basics you must learn somewhere ells.

When I started out, I had to do my homework, hours on the internet, and then i did my first one a BM 901, and went from there.   

Soren, thanks for the suggestions.

I think the issue was his frustration over my memory issues on some old posts.   Which I can appreciate.  

But I was never close to being heated in this discussion so I think you might be reading too much into it.

I fixed the problem with the intermittant channel drop out (knock on wood)

I was hesitant to open up that beogram because its working and all the plastic pieces are like new intact.  

As I said before the DIN socket felt loose, not the connection but the housing.   So  I did not want to pull on the plug in fear of pulling the entire socket out, same thing with pushing it in.   

Today a channel dropped and it would not come back up even with the power on/off trick.   

The issue was so simple.   The Din socket was tight but one of the pins must have not been inserted all the way.    Once I knew how the socket inside was held down I was not afraid to push it in too hard.   It pushed in maybe 1/4" further.   As soon as I did that the channels are both up.   Been fine all day too.    When it went out before jiggling it made no difference because the the DIN cable and socket were moving as a unit.   The connection was still marginal.   

I still don't understand why powering it on/off made it work before though.    One of the pins was not making enough contact which would drop the voltage of one channel by maybe 50 percent but only intermittent.  

Anyway happy that its fixed with no soldering needed.

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A resurrection!

Well done!

Oh it was too good to be true.   A few days later it started acting up again.      I pulled it apart and lubricated it, remounted the power supply (the top was no snapped in)   Also found the ground to the inside of the case was off.   Left channel is still low.   So It probably is the mute relay that just so happen to begin to operate properly when I reseated the plug.

It could be the cable itself so I am waiting on a replacement cable.  If its not the cable.   There are a few things I can try.

1.  Pop open the plastic mute relay switch and Spray it out with contact cleaner.

2.  Cut the wires that operate the mute relay.  Not sure which ones.

3.  Replace the mute relay (if I can find the part)

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I like your foot, but I don't like the solder joints at all...

Agree with Jacques, and are there components missing on the PCB ?, and where do you get your pedicure🙂