Update: I did figure out how to get to the lamp. It appears that the filament has gone open. My next question is, exactly how do I get it out of there? I can see a wire leading from the bulb with red insulation on it, and the other one is wavy and attached to something, but I can't see exactly where each one goes. Also, exactly what sort of lamp does it use? I can 'borrow' the bulb from the tonearm of my parts 8000 once I figure out how to remove the old bulb, but I'd like to get some spares. Again, thanks in advance!

-Adam

Further update: I did figure out how to get to the point that the bulb is soldered to (ugh). My question is, what is the best way to go through with the operation? I assume it involves moving the tonearm out from the rest point, pulling the plug, pulling the housing out to some length, carefully unsoldering the old bulb, soldering the new one in, and putting it back. My question remains, is a suitable replacement available? If I'm reading the service manual correctly, the original bulb is rated for 5V@60mA; is this correct? Has anyone attempted to replace it with some sort of LED? Some help with this issue would be appreciated.

In somewhat related news, I have finally acquired a genuine MMC20CL cartridge for my 8000! It was previously installed in a Beogram 1600, of all things; the MMC20E which came with my 8000 will be replacing it. My question is, what sort of tracking weight does the CL cartridge prefer? I'm not sure exactly what I've had it set to when using my SoundSmith SMMC20EN due to the fact that the weight slider is still missing, though I may be rectifying that soon. I'm pretty sure I've had it tracking at somewhere around 1.25 grams, though. Is this suitable for the CL? Again, thanks!

-Adam

Hello Adam,

you can check the service manual for your beogram 8000. 

In case you need to change the bulb I can try to find the contact details of a guy called Martin from whom you can get bulbs, belts, etc etc.

akoitidis wrote:

Hello Adam,

 

you can check the service manual for your beogram 8000. 

In case you need to change the bulb I can try to find the contact details of a guy called Martin from whom you can get bulbs, belts, etc etc.

Thanks for the response. I have checked the service manual, but the lamp is only identified by its part number of 8230069, listed as IL1, rated at 5V@60mA. I was hoping that someone around here would know of a modern equivalent for it, or whether or not it'd be possible to sub in an LED of some sort. As for Martin, if you're referring to user 'dillen', I am indeed familiar with him. I was hoping he'd chime in on the subject.

-Adam 

I can supply the correct lamp.
Don't fit a LED. It doesn't always work. We mustn't forget that an incandescent lamp sends out light continously, whereas a LED
flashes a some (high) frequency to make the light. For indicator purposes this may be fine, but for optical sensors and
controlling purposes it's not always good.

Martin

You are the MAN Martin 👍

Dillen wrote:

I can supply the correct lamp.
Don't fit a LED. It doesn't always work. We mustn't forget that an incandescent lamp sends out light continously, whereas a LED
flashes a some (high) frequency to make the light. For indicator purposes this may be fine, but for optical sensors and
controlling purposes it's not always good.

Martin

Thanks for the reply, Martin! Ask, and ye shall receive... 😁

Glad to know that you have the right lamp. Am I correct in my guess about which bulb is used where? The designation 'IL1' is used elsewhere in the service manual to denote the bulb used for the arm moving buttons, and it's apparently the same 18V@30mA lamp (there designated 'IL2') used in the sliding chassis for the arm movement sensor. Do you have that lamp as well, BTW?

Good to know on the LED thing. I figured that the flickering might be negligible with the LED running on pure DC, but perhaps it isn't quite enough. Guess there are still some applications where incandescent bulbs are better than LEDs.......... 🤔

-Adam

The LED flashing I am talking about isn't from ripple in the supplied power (though that will of course also give flashing).
They flash at a far higher frequency than that of rectified mains.
They are made that way - it's their way to emit visible light and the frequency is a deciding factor for the light color.

I have all lamps used in these decks.

Martin

Hi Dillen!

I have a Beogram 3000 tangential that appears to have the sensor light for moving the tone arm burnt out. 
Do you still have the part available? If so, please send me the details to order one so I can get it working again :-)

Cheers,

Brian