Well, i think I know what went wrong... The "c-clip' that holds down the lever that attaches to the solenoid was not snug in the groove.  As such, the lever worked its way up to the point of not activating the switch at the top of its travel.

If I understand things, this switch is supposed to reduce current to the solenoid in order to hold the tonearm in the "up" position.

So I managed to fry the solenoid...  Crap.

After I disconnected it, just having the unit plugged in caused Resister 56 to start a smokin'  Any pointers would be appreciated.

Hi Cray

You are right, the Switch puts the 4R1 into Line with the Coil 0RL1 and reduces the Current, when Switch is open. When Switch is closed the Emitter of 0TR4 is GND

Check out if 1TR16 and/or 0TR4 is short to 4R1 (8,2 OHM Ressitor). Seems that 1TR16 draws to much Current, that only can happen when 0TR4 is short between B and E

Try to measure the Coil 0RL1 how many Ohm´s do you get there?

Best Regards

Christian

Thanks Christian-

The resistance in the Coil 0RL1 was only 2 Ohms.  No question, it was fried.  I tried to disassemble it in hopes of rewinding the thing, but when I tried to bend the end of the rod straight to remove the plunger, it snapped right off.  The plastic was melted and it was impossible to unwind.  So it had been under high current for at least two or three records.

I looked the rest of the circuit over and it seemed to be okay.  R56 (the one that comes off of the collector of TR16)  did get so hot as to turn the yellow color band black...  And it was out-of-spec so I replaced it with a 47 Ohm 1 watt resistor.

So I've got it all working again.  Switch is engaged and coil stays cool.  I've let it run a couple of hours just to make sure.

Now I need to figure out how to get a replacement solenoid for my second deck.   I thought about 3D printing a new spool and winding a new one, but I managed to break the end off of the plunger.rod which sort of scuttled that idea.

I'm sort of surprised that nobody has found an "off-the-shelf" version that could be adapted for this.  Most of the ones I can find have a resistance of 20 Ohm (not 10) . I would need to match the throw distance, and the required current for initializing and holding and figure out how to mount it in the bracket.

Hello Cray,

I am brand new to this forum. I have just experienced the dreaded toasted solenoid you speak of here. Beogram 4002 (type 5503)

I have many questions regarding this repair. Too many to list here. I will tell you in advance that I am a novice in diagnosing this particular machine but am very mechanical and can solder.

I have removed the solenoid and taken apart the rod from the plunger piece ( it actually screws out by the way). My question for you is, how do you remove the copper sleeve (with spool attached) from the bracket? I don’t want to mangle it.

Also your post mentions your making a new Spool and re wiring it.
I don’t know if I have the expertise to perform this task and will ask you if this is something that you might have time to do for others?

I have emailed you. Don’t know if you got it? I have other questions for you about this machine.

I will start a new post and ask more if I don’t hear back. I don’t know if this message goes out to all or just to this part of this thread. Please PM

me.

If anyone else can help, I would greatly appreciate it.

thanks,

Cliff

Hello Cray,

I am new to this website and this will be my first post.

I’m happy to find your post about this problem as I too have experienced the dreaded fried solenoid.
My question for you is how do you remove the copper sleeve from the bracket?

I have already removed the rod and plunger ( the rod is threaded and unscrews from the plunger).
I want to remove the bobbin for closer inspection to access a repair if possible.

I am not confident in my expertise in performing the rewind task, as there are too many variables beyond
my experience. Is this something you are willing to do for other people with this problem? Yours looks like it worked out fine.

Also I may need to replace R56 transistor as you have done. Is percentage tolerance important to this part?

let me know,
thanks,

cliff 

Hi Cliff-

It is hard for me to remember, but i think the copper sleeve can be pushed out in one direction.  One side is flanged way more than the other so I would try to work it out the easier way.

If you want to try to replace the solenoid, my 3D design is on a website called "tinkercad.com".  Search for "Beogram 4002 Solenoid" and you can find it and order one printed and sent to you.

Winding the solenoid is not difficult.  You can see in my photos how I did it with a drill.  Just wind enough wire on the spool to fill it up.  It doesn't have to be perfect to work.  The printed spool has a hole in it and a groove to accommodate the wire.  It is important to get the right gauge.  Measure the resistance of your spool after you get it wound.

Also, I would measure the resistance on your existing spool just to make sure it is fried.

Good luck!

Jeff

Thank you very much Jeff!

Measured my solenoid. 0.2. 
plastic spool has melted itself fast to the inner core.

my work is definitely cut out for me. (No pun intended)

thanks again!

Cliff 

Hi Cliff-

Looking through my box-o-parts, I found my first attempt at winding this solenoid coil.  It measures 7.5 Ohms and it may work fine.  I think I re-wound a second one that got closer to 9 Ohms and that was the one I installed in my repaired project.

Yours for free if you want to give it a try.  Just drop me a line as to where to send it.

Jeff

Oh boy!

please PM me and I can give you my address!
This would be perfect!

thank you very much!

Cliff