You won't disturb the fuses (I've never seen soldered in ones with these machines?)as they are on a separate board.

To remove the whole assembly for better access,remove the two screw's adjacent to the power selector which secure it to the chassis from beneath the machine.You can then rewire the new  power cable to the back of the power selector.

It would be simpler and less fiddly though,to simply cut the power cable inside the machine and then connect the new cable to the original with an in line connector?

Nick

Okay, power cable is cut...  I decided to solder it to another cable using standard western union splice and then use heat shrink tubing over the solder joints but I am finding that all the harvested cables I come across have an insulator diameter that is too large for the black plastic grommet coming out the back.

Does anyone know of a supplier of generic A/C power cables of various diameters? Or another solution on how to pinch an AC cable between the two pieces of grommet and fit it in the case? 

Are you using flat flex cable like the original,or trying to use round cable?The cable gland/clamp needs to distort the cable to clamp it,so you will need to use plier's to close the clamp and fit it into the chassis cable access hole.

Are you in the U.K.?I have a box of spare cables,kept "just in case",hey ho!

Nick

Thanks Nick.

I (gently) used vice grips with the flat cable I was using to close the plastic clamp until it fit back in the chassis. Then I used the method I described above to splice the new cable.

I have never used heat shrink tubing before... it is a clean look (even though you won't see it unless you pop the hood).

Next step is to put in a new RCA cable... I feel like I'm getting close to getting this operational.