Moving freely, and up and down looks OK.

If want it really well balanced, you should use shims (thin plastic card) to position the motor armature inside the housing, like this Thorens TD124 (Similar motor - I don't have a photo of a BG in shims).

I almost forgot - there are another 2 places to clean the contacts, and that is at the LIFT leaf switch, AND the leaf contact inside the solenoid, with the red plastic arm.

Hi,

Ok, so I managed to open the voltage switch. And you're right :) Parts jumping out and about, but I caugt all 4 springs, 3 small contacts and 1 ball. Cleaned all contacts with metal cleaner. Bought some contact cleaner 60 and hopefully receiving it tommorow, so I can clean an reassemble.

Before I opened the voltage switch, I switched the power on with the motor laying (like in the video). Of course it spins really fast, but I could also hear a low humming tone and some kind of "frequency" from the motor. This frequency was rising very very slow while it was on. This tells me somehow, that the motor spins faster and faster. Because, like I wrote before, when it has been running for 25 min., the speed is correct and the records sound right.

So something is definitely wrong - hopefully, the cleaning of all contacts could solve this. Otherwise, I will disassmble the motor again and take it from there :)

Ok, so I got the contacts cleaned (carefully) with Kontakt 60 - they look like new now :) I let it sit for a couple of hours and reassembled. Reassembling was NOT an easy task with all the tiny bits (escpecially the ball) needed to be hold in place while pressing the small clip in again. But I managed somehow.

Unfortunately, that didn't change anything regarding the slow startup speep. It still starts at 30 rpm and *slowly* rising up till 33.

I'm still suspecting the motor / oiling process / alignment of shaft. But it is almost quiet - only a small humming sound coming from the turntable when assembled and operating.

I think I should take the motor apart again.

Kim

Hi Kim

Did you had a look for the leverarm and it's tip which goes into the gap of the idler wheel as I mentioned?

If the tiny plastic piece is of, only the copper coloured arm sits in the gap and the idlerwheel can move up for a little bit, because the clearence is too big. It should fit not tight but only minimun gap so zhe idler is running free.. Maybe it tends to go in direction to top of the stepped pulley and goes down after a while.

Best regards

Christian

Kim

Well done - you are becoming a master technician, out of necessity.

This is a matter of covering all the possibilities.

Has the idler wheel had the rubber replaced.

If not, the hard old rubber is very unpredictable, and of course it cannot make proper friction contact with the brass pulley, resulting in low speed.

But there is also another possibility which needs to be looked at.

On this picture, at the red arrow is a small cork disk mounted at the edge of the copper plate, which supports the speed wheel's up/down movement.

If that cork disk is damaged or missing, there will be excess friction, resulting in speed degradation.

And your rubber belt?

If it's too tight, there will be excessive bearing friction on the sintered bearings, especially if the axle is not 100% balanced.

I hope all this info can help you solve your problem.

There is a solution , and it is usually one or more of the issues I've mentioned.

The gradually increasing speed (as bearings warm up) points to the oiling.
You can't be safe that all modern SAE30 oils has the right additives needed.

Martin

Hi

Today I went trough a couple of things.

Regading your suggestions:

1) Leverarm still has the small plastic/cork piece, so I think it is fine. Idler wheel is spinning without any kind of noise.

Login to view image

and

Login to view image

2) Furthermore a new rubber belt and idler wheel bought from Martin was already fitted before the oil infusion.

3) I disassembled the motor again to have a look. I removed and refitted the lower bearing tighter to the bottom (it could go down furthermore a very little bit when looking at the two small metal taps on the backside).

Bottom:

Login to view image

Top:

Login to view image

And a drop of oil was added to the bottom bearing housing where the shaft ends - just in case.

After all this I reassembled, and this time there was some improvement. It is almost completely silent (you have to put the ear down to hear anything and only very faint). And the best part - it was going up to playable speed in 5-10 min.

4) Regarding the oil. I have a strong feeling that the final solution would be another reoiling of the bearings. Martin, which oil do you suggest? Can I buy it here in Denmark?

I assume that I should repeat the cleaning of the bearings (as well as the felt ring this time) in acetone again?

Thank you everybody for all your good suggestions and support. I'm learning a lot from you.

Have a nice weekend.

Kim

@ Menahem

This is excactly what I ment now with picture.

Maybe the material of the tip is sometimes plastic and sometimes cork.

Kind regards Christian

I use Mobil Velocite 6 (spindle oil) for sinter bearings.

I think the tip material is some kind of teflon but I haven't analyzed it.

Martin

Thanks. So I ordered Mobil Velocite 6 oil from UK - should be arriving before 10th of February..

I wonder if I should clean the bearings in acetone again? As well as the felt rings?

Kim