Beogram 1000 Mexico

60 replies

On my last trip to TX I got my BG 1000 and a BM 1900 ( more in another thread). The BG 1000 is considered the first real B&O made BG. The BG 1000 has a sentimental value to me, it was the first ever B&O BG I have owned, I bought it new 1969 in Holstebro in DK together with a BM 1000 and a pair of Beovox 1000 , I owned this system for about 2 years and then sold it to buy a car. Last year I bought a BG and BM 1000 in DK, but my son fell in love with the BG and kept it there, now playing through a BG 1900 and Beovox P45s. So I brought the BM 1000 over here and had to look for a BG 1000 again. I am still looking for Beovox 1000, and one day they will be there too.

As I want the BG 1000 to perform perfectly I planned to take it apart completely check every single piece for wear and correct function. It came like this in a bad packing, but double boxed.

As you see a lot of damage to the acrylic cover and an ugly glue pad, probably someone had a cleaning or anti static brush glued on there.

It came just like this, no packing between cover and platter, the tonearm not secured to the stand, the cartridge in place, no tape to secure the cover to the base. As you see the 5 pin plug cut off and not there. The cable is white, I have until now only seen grey cables for BG signal cables.

Here the number and type, I think the type 5202 is an early version. The repair manual onsite is for later versions.

I bought this one on Ebay USA so I wonder now if I have a 50 Hz version or a converted to 60 Hz version. Maybe the 5202-1 type is the US version. I did not connect it to try, because I want to check everything first.

Bottom plate and power cable out.

Bottom plate off, looks clean, but as this is a VF version it should have a preamp inside, not so.

Where the preamp PCB should be inserted there is nothing and the connections are bridged, I checked the connectors and it looks OK.

Turned the deck around, and started dismantling from the top, pull off the insert for 7" records, keep on finger over the center hole to avoid the retaining ring to fly away to a never come back place, then with a pressure ring plier pull off the pressure ring. you can now take off the center plastic piece and the rubber mat. The speed selector and speed fine adjustment knobs comes off easily just pulling, mine speed selector knob came apart in 2 pieces, but a little glue will help there.

The platter comes off loosening 3 screws

Platter out

When you lift off the platter the drive belt comes off the platter, fumble a little and you can pull it off the drive pulley

Loosen the 4 screws and the the whole insert comes out, it is now time to pull off the the cartridge.

Wood frame out

Motor support, just to remember how the nylon pieces are fitted

Now desolder the 2 wires on the tonearm switch, disconnect all the other wires in the white connector, loosen 3 nuts on the motor support, use a pliers to lift off the spring loaded disks and pull out the motor with connected wires.

Loosen one grub screw holding the tonearm switch and pull it off take out operating shaft, take off the voltage switch.

The blade spring comes off by pulling it to middle of the rod, lift the rod a little and the spring can be pulled out sideways, then loosen the grub screw in the handle, pull out the rod from the lift lever and then from the lift handle.

All out

Desolder the wires coming from the tonearm, unhook the tracking weight spring, loosen the nut from the shaft and pull it off over the wires, take out the tonearm

Using the base plate as support pull out the  small pin with a side cutter, keeping a finger on the spring doing it, loosen the nut and pull out the lift mechanism

Then I took off the bottom bearing, and found out that the bearing shaft has a screw securing the platter shaft through the recess in the the shaft, this means that you can get the complete platter off without taking off the top pieces (7" insert, plastic center, rubber mat and the 3 screws, easier when changing belt.

And here we are, a main cover ready to clean and paint. And thats how far I got yesterday with 3 hours job.

Location: Mexico city

Retired
Printing machine technician
Restored various 1960-70 items
Rock and Roll music
Collecting Vinyl
Restored Jukebox Wurlitzer 1050

Blimey, 3 hours, that's a lot done, fabulous pics, look forward to future work, anybody contemplating similar work in the future will really appreciate those pics

Great looking project Søren. I'll enjoy watching you restore this one. I know the feeling rejoining an old favorite piece of audio equipment.  Very rewarding.

-sonavor

As you know from my other thread Soren, I have a very similar Beogram 1000 which like yours is an early one. I was lucky to find the Pre-Amp inside mine but they do occasionally come up for sale so keep your eyes open.

Watching with interest!

ben

Hi Søren! The deck is easy to take apart, the motor is a bit less so. You will have to clean the bearings very thoroughly - you know the drill - and dip them into hot motor oil. I took a jar of Mobil 1 up to 100 degrees Celsius, kept it at this temperature for a good 30 minutes with the bearings soaked in it, and let the lot cool down afterwards. The motor took ages to reach its nominal speed prior to that, and it now starts instantly. I use a good old bain-Marie of boiling water to do so! 😎

I didnt take apart the motor yet, but will do so, however it is turning light and without resistance (normal), I saw your thread Jacques. The preamp doesnt matter as the BM 1000 I have can be used with or without preamp, I will continue looking for one, we want it to be original, Martin has one of mine, he took it out of my sons BG 1000, but I dont think it fits in this one. I appreciate your comments  and interest in the thread.

It has been sparse with threads in the vintage forum lately, I am following Sonavors and Jacques threads and both of them are now waiting for spares before they can get on. I have spares from Martin for BM 1000 and BM 1900, and will post as I get there also to do I have my BM 2400 that went down after 3 years good work.

But here what I did yesterday

This is the biggest damage on the top plate

I scraped off the worst of the glue, then the rest with acetone, then wet sanding with 220 grain in the glue area, then wet sanding with 400 grain all over, taking care not to damage the B&O sticker.

All clean and sanded I covered the holes where needed with paper strips rolled over a pencil and then inserted in the holes, masked the chromed nut and the B&O Sticker with thin clear tape (better than masking tape as it is thinner). Ready to clean one more time with acetone and then paint.

While I had all the sanding utensils out and ready, I started on the ugly acrylic cover, I placed it on a sturdy cardboard box that nearly fit into the cover Bad idea as I sanded with 30 micron the cardboard damaged the inside of the cover, I had to cover the box with a cotton rag, and later sand the inside with 15 micron and so on), I then wet sanded with a 30 micron sheet, parallel to the long side until the deep scratches was gone, the most difficult was the damage you can see in the first pics. I then went to 15 micron sanding parallel  to the short side until all the grains from the 30 micron was gone, then down to 9 micron, long side, until all then grain from 15 micron was gone, then down to 3 micron, short side, I now had like a haze on the acrylic, not quite clear, I then took to Novus No. 2 scratch remover, and that did it. With 25°C in the garage this was a boot camp, 2 hours hard work, sweating like after a 5 Km run. I have some more covers where I tried with Novus No. 3 and 2 and 1, It didnt turn out as well as this one.

As you see nearly perfect, before finishing the deck I will give a good work with Novus No. 1 to protect and give the last shine.

Here the sheets I used, bought on Amazon, I used 1/10 of each sheet, always sand wet and cross wise then it is easier to see where and how you are sanding, and always sand until the grains of the last used disappears, and use a lot of water. Dry off water and let dry to see where you are at.

Location: Mexico city

Retired
Printing machine technician
Restored various 1960-70 items
Rock and Roll music
Collecting Vinyl
Restored Jukebox Wurlitzer 1050

I was wondering Jacques, the Bain-Marie is Baño de Maria in Spanish, and Bain Marie in Frances, As I understand this the Englishmen and North American citizens use the France variation just with - in between, or do they have their own word for it ?

It should be something like Marie Bath. Well this is maybe better posted in Grumpy old men, I´m sure Rich will know

Location: Mexico city

Retired
Printing machine technician
Restored various 1960-70 items
Rock and Roll music
Collecting Vinyl
Restored Jukebox Wurlitzer 1050

Painted Grey Hammered

Location: Mexico city

Retired
Printing machine technician
Restored various 1960-70 items
Rock and Roll music
Collecting Vinyl
Restored Jukebox Wurlitzer 1050

Impressive restoration.... as always!

I look forward to your extremely interesting progress reports! 😁 Drinks With a cuba.

Jeff

Location: Victoria, British Columbia

My B&O Icons:

BeoCenter-9500.png BeoCenter-9500.png
Beovox.png Beovox.png
Beotime.png Beotime.png
Beosound.png Beosound.png
Beogram-400x.png Beogram-400x.png

Søren Mexico wrote:

I was wondering Jacques, the Bain-Marie is Baño de Maria in Spanish, and Bain Marie in Frances, As I understand this the Englishmen and North American citizens use the France variation just with - in between, or do they have their own word for it ?

It should be something like Marie Bath. Well this is maybe better posted in Grumpy old men, I´m sure Rich will know

I  think the French term 'bain-marie' is used in UK, if memory serves. ¿ Baño Maria en español ?

 

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