The processor check shows P O, so I'm assuming its good.  I'm out of town, so should be able to get a look at it soon.

After getting a good look, and waiting for parts, someone had been in there before and replace a few of the caps.  I replaced the powerboard caps and rectifier, hoping for the best, but no dice, and also discovered that the board has the wrong polarity on one of the main caps (POP!).

So still some digging to do.

Well after 2 years, I'm back at this.

I got the right caps in, but the same issues, system turns on, can select all the sources but no sound. All display segments are good, but cant tell about the level meter. I adjusted the right side no-load current to 10 mV, but the left wont budge out of 0.0-0.8 mV.  Ill replace the trimmers, but they tested ok in situ.  I'll look at the transistors around as well, as those were bad on my Beomaster 6000.

I still have the tape, FM, boards to recap, but I didnt think those would affect sound output. If anyone has any advice I'd greatly appreciate it.

Thanks,

Max

Hi Max

Have you tried connecting the speakers direct to the board inside the unit or tried plugging headphones in ?

Gordon

Missing blinding plug at the rear socket panel?

Martin

I havent updated in awhile, but have made progress.  I should have taken a holistic view from the top.  I realized that most of the issues were all on the 15V power, and after testing connections I found that a trace on board 4 had cracked.  Fixed that, same issues, and tested every trace, and sure enough there was another crack on the trace next to it, not visible to the naked eye, it was under the solder pad.  And now, it almost works! All lights on, controls, tuner P1-P5 and phono.

Biggest issue is the left channel is now out, and I am not getting any (0.5 mV) over 3TP100/101, that I am still working on. Weird thing was that I did have signal after replacing R124, but same low o.5 mV.  Then I took out and I tried testing TR110 and 111, as the similar position TRs on my Beomaster 6000 had caused a similar issue when the adjustment resistor for no-load went bad on that, but now there is no sound at all. I'm testing from the internal speaker connections.  The jumper is in and has continuity.  The cassette deck had expected melted belts, and the FF catch was totally gummed up, but now its not going into FF and play, so I have to fiddle with the mech, I hope its not the solenoid. Also the level meter is very slow response, and pegs if I touch the rec level. Finally tuner P6 wasnt working, it turns out the white gear connecting the tuning wheel to the tuner snapped, and I'm not sure if it will be possible to easily fix.  The gear is between a solid metal bracket, and I have to slide the tuner clutch into it (seems a poor design).
Oh, also the program door closes onto the Open bar, so I'm thinking it may have been dropped.  Not sure if I can adjust the brackets yet, cosmetics will be towards the end.

But I am making progress.  Biggest thing is getting the left channel up, as tuner P1-P5 all work for radio, its getting there.

-Max

For the left channel, I'm thinking it's the Darlingtons, which I'll have to order.  Tape has a broken peg on the back supporting an idler wheel that is snapped, and the FF solenoid is not engaging in FF or play.  P6 cog is still an issue, but with all the issues, I have to take a break on the 7700. I have a bulb kit for a BM 2400 to distract (and give space on the workbench)

Well good news/bad news.  Back at this after fixing a Beomaster 2400 and Beogram 1800.

Got the left channel good (transistors), and able to adjust the no-load to 10 mV.  TT and AUX play well, however no left channel on radio (I think it may be a bad connection somewhere, just coincidence its the left).

FM6 may be resigned to fate, unless I can find a new gear, that old plastic just snaps, and I cannt figure out a way to secure it outside of the bracket.

Still working on the tape solenoid issue, but I wanted to make sure I could get sound before continuing.