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  • Re: copy duplicate Eprom STB-C

    Before you spend the time and effort in trying to find the chip with the right specs (which might not be as easy as you may think), it's better to confirm whether your programmer supports the chip and you have the drivers and the PLCC32 adapter available! Just read out the chip multiple times and see whether the result is consistent and the data makes sense. (I've had some bad experience with programmers that - in theory - were capable of handling certain EPROM's but in the end they just
    Posted to The Workbench (Forum) by manfy on Fri, May 14 2021
  • Re: Beogram CD 5500 open and then close?

    [quote user="Peter8300"] ... There's the adjustment screw next to the drive wheel (or whatever it's called) which kinda fell apart when I opened up the machine. ... [/quote] Could you be a bit more specific? With "adjustment screw", do you mean that white eccentric plastic gear you're pointing at with the torx screw driver?? If so, I don't really see that in the service manual -- and the manual doesn't say anything whatsoever about any adjustment. The part
    Posted to The Workbench (Forum) by manfy on Wed, May 5 2021
  • Re: Beogram CD 5500 open and then close?

    Thanks! I missed that one in the description. That clears things up. The function of the rubber is now obvious. It is supposed to dampen the "bumping sound" when the tray hits it and at the same time the friction holds the tray in place. I would just use a normal flat rubber band that you can find in stationary shops or everyday supermarkets. I just googled "flat rubber band" and checked the images -- they offer thousands of variants. Cut that to size, use Pattex (which is an
    Posted to The Workbench (Forum) by manfy on Wed, May 5 2021
  • Re: Beolab 4500 (mondriaan?)

    [quote user="bwest1000"] also, btw - I noticed a very small dent in the stainless steel. i dont suppose there is any way to repair that? i am really into buying these old beo products. i's like collecting old works of art. [/quote] Hmm, now that sounds trickier. Is it a sharp dent? If so, you may be out of luck. Looking at the pictures from Leslie's post < here >, I'd say there's no way to access the rear side of the panel without destroying it. And to fix a sharp
    Posted to The Workbench (Forum) by manfy on Sun, Apr 25 2021
  • Re: Beolab 4500 (mondriaan?)

    [quote user="bwest1000"] nevermind - found it. i don't really solder or know what to do. i am not sure i should attempt this. [/quote] It looks like a very simple job, but if you don't have any experience it probably also means that you don't have the right tools available. Good tools and all "the little bits and pieces" can cost you easily $50++ Just bring it to any electronics repair shop and give them a printout of the service manual. They will have it done in half
    Posted to The Workbench (Forum) by manfy on Sat, Apr 24 2021
  • Re: B&O Test Equipment..

    You don't really need it! The SN15 service manual and an MC1466L datasheet/app note should more than suffice. There will be only minor differences in the output transistors and the MC1466-external current/voltage regulation resistors and you can easily figure them out by studying the MC1466 datasheet. If the MC1466L is busted you could try a fake chip from China (readily available via ebay) or if you don't trust them Chinese, why not just build your own! < see here > It looks simple
    Posted to The Workbench (Forum) by manfy on Tue, Apr 20 2021
  • Re: Beosound 9000 (Mk1) shows PWR Error 20 in testmode

    [quote user="69er"] I just don´t want to spend time on investigations other people already did. Sharing knowledge helps :-) [/quote] Oh yes, indeed. And this seems to have become the preferred approach to electronics repair, especially in the younger internet-focussed generation... Personally, however, I prefer a more pro-active approach and find it more expedient and beneficial at the end of the day. Anyways, so just let's wait til somebody who's had the very same problem
    Posted to The Workbench (Forum) by manfy on Sat, Mar 27 2021
  • Re: CD disc drive hub friction problem

    I had a similar problem on a DVD drive in my PC once. There's only 2 ways to eliminate slipping: A) increase friction on the hub that's attached to the drive shaft B) increase the clamping force by using a stronger magnet on the 'locking hub' (I'm not sure what's the formal name of that magnetic thinggy that presses the disc onto the drive hub) There are upsides and downsides to either method. If the additional rubber on the drive hub is uneven, you may introduce a wobble
    Posted to The Workbench (Forum) by manfy on Sat, Mar 27 2021
  • Re: Beosound 9000 (Mk1) shows PWR Error 20 in testmode

    [quote user="69er"] I can measure resistors, capacitors and transistors. Also exchange them. [/quote] You really have the equipment for and reasonable experience in SMT repairs?? I just downloaded the BS9000 service manual and it seems that most of the boards are surface mount. If you don't have the equipment and experience it would be a wiser (and probably cheaper!) choice to bring it to a professional repair shop. The unit is 20 years old and spare boards are probably hard to come
    Posted to The Workbench (Forum) by manfy on Fri, Mar 26 2021
  • Re: Beomaster 3000-2 LOUD buzzing noise?

    Hi Christian, In your utube it looks like the sound is coming from the unit itself and it seems that the buzzing noise is increasing in the first 5-10 seconds. Is this correct? If so and provided there are no speakers connected yet, my first guess is magnetostriction. That means an aging transformer with less than perfect coatings on the core iron laminates and/or windings is causing the buzz. Degrading rubber bushings intended to avoid transmission of those vibrations to the chassis can be another
    Posted to The Workbench (Forum) by manfy on Wed, Mar 24 2021
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