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  • Re: Beogram 8002 repair

    I replaced TR21. Unfortunately it made no difference. I still think something is wrong inside the can. I took out C28 but it measures good. 46.7uF and 1.4ohm. I'll replace it just to be sure, it was an 85 degrees type.
    Posted to BeoGram (Forum) by Premiumverum on Tue, Oct 20 2015
  • Re: Beogram 8002 repair

    And not to forget, thanks for the explaining diagrams! That seems like some very handy software you are using.
    Posted to BeoGram (Forum) by Premiumverum on Fri, Oct 16 2015
  • Re: Beogram 8002 repair

    I disconnected P6-4. As soon as I plug in the BG it has 4.88V on P6-4. When I press play it goes to 1.22V, stop and it goes back to 4.88. The BG will operate for about 5 seconds this way, then won't respond at all showing various nonsense in the display, or nothing. The resistance I measure from processor pin to P6-4 is 3.24K, corresponds nicely to R11 so the trace and resistor seem fine I think there is something going wrong inside the can. Maybe I'll change the electrolytic capacitor (gets
    Posted to BeoGram (Forum) by Premiumverum on Fri, Oct 16 2015
  • Re: Beogram 8002 repair

    Mostly when I plug the BG in the display shows the . and when I press play it says 33 (not 33.33, only the first two digits show). This is what I call 'on'. I can change it to 45 with the 45 button. No respronse from the << or >> or other buttons but this makes me think the buttons are connected. After a while the display dims out. sometimes when I plug it in the display has . . . displayed. There doesn't seem to be a pattern. I replaced the push in connector of the buttons
    Posted to BeoGram (Forum) by Premiumverum on Mon, Oct 12 2015
  • Re: Beogram 8002 repair

    The +/- 15V are not there whether play or stop, something is blocking the power supply regulators from coming on. I tested TR21 in my transistor tester, B=224, Vf=635 which seems fine to me. TR6 and TR19 also tested good. I could test the others later. I measured +5V on P6-3 when on and +4.9V when off, the pin connected to 'reset' on the processor. Should this pin be 5V under all circumstances?
    Posted to BeoGram (Forum) by Premiumverum on Fri, Oct 9 2015
  • Re: Beogram 8002 repair

    Hi Sonavor, thanks for the answer! The time it takes to fail differs greatly, it doesnt get better when it has been standing. Unfortunately I haven't had time to work with the BG till today. I've been measuring and reading your BG8002 thread. The problem now is the table turns on, shows the red dot, the buttons work, but won't start the TT, just change the display. No response from platter or arm. When I measure pin 4 of connector 6 (on/off signal) I get 0.736V when off, it becomes 0
    Posted to BeoGram (Forum) by Premiumverum on Thu, Oct 8 2015
  • Beogram 8002 repair

    Hello all, I have had a BG8002 as part of my 8000 system for about 4 years now I think. Unfortunately it started acting up some time ago: not starting, showing 33 as soon as I plugged it in, just erratic behaviour pointing to the common problems of bad caps and or connections. Some caps were already replaced by the former (very knowledgable) owner. I replaced the rest of the old caps. I resoldered and cleaned the connectors on main and processor PCB and every other bad looking joint. Worked fine
    Posted to BeoGram (Forum) by Premiumverum on Sun, Sep 27 2015
  • Re: Eliminating noise - Sony TV to Beosound Essence

    See this thread: http://forum.beoworld.org/forums/t/13950.aspx A DAC will also work, the hum/noise is electrical. Using an optical which uses light as a signal will not let this hum through but you will lose volume control because the TV's preamp is bypassed.
    Posted to General Discussion & Questions (Forum) by Premiumverum on Fri, Aug 7 2015
  • Re: Beogram CD 3300 lid closes and then jumps up 0,5cm, closes fine again, plays well

    I am glad it worked, and great that you posted some pics. Enjoy the CD3300!
    Posted to The Workbench (Forum) by Premiumverum on Sun, Aug 2 2015
  • Re: Beogram CD 3300 lid closes and then jumps up 0,5cm, closes fine again, plays well

    It's the cap (black and white block) between pin 5 of p73 and pin 2 of p72 on the PCB diagram. Looks like it is soldered to the connectors, probably on the underside as you say! Do let us know if replacing it solves your problem.
    Posted to The Workbench (Forum) by Premiumverum on Tue, Jul 28 2015
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