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  • Re: What is the best TV B&O ever made?

    I'd like to make honorable mention of the beovision 8902. http://www.tvfilmprops.co.uk/det/1617/Bang-and-Olufson-Beovision-8902-Eighties-Television/ I used to have one as my main TV until last year. My SO and I found it started looking a bit dated. But... that was its only flaw! Great picture, beautiful color, superb sound from the big loudspeakers, a fine remote and balanced looks. And the best? Never once in its 30 years has it been repaired and it was still going strong. Now if that is not
    Posted to General Discussion & Questions (Forum) by Premiumverum on Sun, Aug 21 2016
  • Re: How best to hook up Pentas (mk1) to receiver without preamp outputs?

    Hi, Unfortunately your receiver is not the most suitable for connecting active B&O speakers. The hum and buzz you are hearing is a common problem when connecting beolabs to a headphone jack. What you need is a receiver with a volume controlled preamp out. Looking at the onkyo it should not be difficult to find a similar model with the same kind of inputs for not too high a price with this preamp out. Or, you could use the beomaster, it has similar inputs to the onkyo (tape, phono)
    Posted to General Discussion & Questions (Forum) by Premiumverum on Tue, Feb 9 2016
  • Re: Beovision MX7000 hum / buzz through speakers

    Thanks for the reply tournedos. Your story also points to the psu being the culprit. Did you recap the entire mx6000 or just certain parts?
    Posted to The Workbench (Forum) by Premiumverum on Sun, Jan 24 2016
  • Beovision MX7000 hum / buzz through speakers

    Hi all, I have a 1992 MX7000. It has great picture and sound except for one thing: very noticable buzz through the loudspeaker, getting louder the lighter the picture is. The buzz gets louder/softer with te colume control. Pressing mute makes the buzz disappear completely. What can I do about it? I am suspecting bad caps in the power supply. First step I'd take is replacing caps in the +/-5V , 8V and 15V PSU as trouble seems to start in the pre-amp or maybe tuner (buzz reacts to vol control so
    Posted to The Workbench (Forum) by Premiumverum on Sat, Jan 23 2016
  • Beolab 5 SPDIF: no sound on one speaker

    Hi all, A friend of mine has BL5, connected to his imac by spdif via an optical to coax converter. The coax is specifically for digital audio, he did not accidentaly buy ordinary RCA.The BL5 are in option 1, pressing radio on Beo4 turns them on. The converter connects to the first BL5 throught digital in. Another coax cable is used from the first BL5 digital out into the second BL5 digital in. Imac optical>---<Opt to coax converter>-------<1st BL5>--------< 2nd BL5> Sometimes
    Posted to General Discussion & Questions (Forum) by Premiumverum on Mon, Jan 4 2016
  • Re: Questions to repair a Beogram 8002

    The strange capacitor on the back of the PCB is the green big one on the last pic? That is a resistor and should definitely be there, do not remove. First thing is replace the capacitors. Are you sure you got all polarities right? As stuff lights up I'd say you probably have. Next thing is resolder all connectors and inspect thouroughly for other bad solderings. Do not forget the cap in the uprocessor can (probably included in martins kit) and check for bad connections there also. Usually these
    Posted to BeoGram (Forum) by Premiumverum on Thu, Dec 3 2015
  • Re: Beogram 8002 repair

    After some thorough testing I think I can safely assume the BG has been fixed. Next to the bad connector on the crystal I found a bad connection in the pin that connects the ground from the component side of the PCB to the solder side. It caused the uprocessor to sometimes not turn on. Thank you very much for the help and encouragement! On to a next project, what will it be?
    Posted to BeoGram (Forum) by Premiumverum on Tue, Nov 24 2015
  • Re: Beogram 8002 repair

    Today I went back into the BG. I took a peek inside the microprocessor can to see where I'd start and saw... a broken solder on one of the legs of X1! I resoldered. This explained things too well so I immediately put everything back and started the BG... presto, contact! Could this have been the issue all along? How have I been so blind!? I'm back to test mode for now, time to see if everything is now solved for good. The problem with the not stopping arm assembly remains, OPE1 is the suspect
    Posted to BeoGram (Forum) by Premiumverum on Wed, Nov 4 2015
  • Re: Beogram 8002 repair

    Hi Guillaume, thanks for the suggestion! I remember reading your thread before when doing research, I'll look in to OPE1 because I too once had some sparking at P2 testing for shorts.... Unfortunately when I did a quick plug in of the BG this morning, everything was back to square one. Only 33 appeared, sometimes 33 2. No response from buttons. My fiddling with the cpu can seems to have temporarily restored some connection that is now gone again. I'll check OPE1, connector P2 and then get
    Posted to BeoGram (Forum) by Premiumverum on Thu, Oct 29 2015
  • Re: Beogram 8002 repair

    I finally got round to working on the BG again. Checked processor leads, checked connectors on the can. I replaced C28 in the can, I had already removed it last time for testing its value. This changed everything, I think for the better! BG starts with the red dot and responds to buttons, drives the arm and platter looking stable with correct display. This makes me think the PSU and on/off from uP are OK. However, not all is well yet... New symptoms When play is pressed the arm drives in but never
    Posted to BeoGram (Forum) by Premiumverum on Wed, Oct 28 2015
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