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A Beovox MS150 Project

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sonavor
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sonavor posted on Fri, Mar 30 2012 5:31 AM

While delaying the completion of the Beomaster 6000 project (I have been recapping some other amplifiers before diving into the volume motor repair), I came across these Beovox MS150 speakers that are in need of restoration. The MS150 speakers have been on my radar for a while now but this was my first chance to get a pair and they were within driving distance (for me) to pick up...so no shipping. 

As you can see, the 8 inch and 10 inch drivers need new foam surrounds. That is to be expected. I haven't opened them up to check the crossovers yet but I am figuring I will be replacing those capacitors as well.  The real issue I will have is the top grill covers. Both speakers are missing those. Even without them I had to buy these speakers. If anyone has any spare top grill covers please let me know. 

I am also trying to decide the best place to order surrounds. I have bought surrounds off Ebay for several of my CX100, CX50, S55, S120.2 and RL140 speakers.  All of those refoam projects came out great. I imagine the same surrounds for the S120.2 8 inch driver should also work for the MS150. I will see if that company also supplies the 10 inch surrounds. 

In any case, parts will have to be ordered so it will be a couple weeks before I can really get started.  


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sonavor
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...with the grill covers (no top cover)


Peter
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Answered (Verified) Peter replied on Fri, Mar 30 2012 9:06 AM
Verified by Jason

When I had a pair of these, I had them reconed with a rubber surround. The sound was excellent - Recone Lab were so impressed they put them through their sound chamber - ruler flat response! They are the pair pictured here.

Peter

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Step1
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Step1 replied on Mon, Apr 2 2012 8:41 PM

sonavor:

Gotta wonder what happened here. The circular housing for the tweeter and mid drivers has a really nasty scratch. It indents into the plastic. Lucky whatever did that missed the drivers! I wonder if I should attempt to fix the scratches. Without a top grill the scratches will be visible. Not critical for the sound of the speakers of course but I want the end result to look as good as possible. Sanding the damage could make the problem look worse though.

 

I would be tempted to do something about the mark - ideally fill it cleanup then overspray but not sure if you would get the original finish... It does look like the same molding as the S-120 etc. so I don't think you will struggle too much for a spare...?

 

Oh regards the lack of front panels - I know it is nice to have a complete set but IMO these speakers look so much better without anyway - and they are a pain to store without getting damaged too!

Olly

sonavor
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Going over the scratched area with my hand, it isn't as deep as I originally thought.  It is more of a scrape. I think the first thing is to try and carefully clean it up - just hitting the scraped area.  Matching the black paint it would help conceal it somewhat.  I haven't seen any S120 or M150 series speakers parted out so I don't like my odds for that option. If you come across one however, that would be a good option.

sonavor
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I see what you mean about the stands and the rubber stops.  The M100 stands don't have a hole for the rubber stops like some of the other B&O stands.  I'll have to mount a rubber block on the stand where the speaker will rest.

Thanks for noting that.

sonavor
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Wow, the Good HiFi surrounds and the crossover parts from Dillen both arrived today.  That was faster than I expected as I haven't started to prepare the drivers.  Here is a picture of the new parts.


Step1
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Step1 replied on Sat, Apr 7 2012 9:08 PM

Looks Good :)

Olly

sonavor
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Thanks.

Starting with the 8 inch woofer on one of the MS150's.  Here is a picture of the woofer removed.  I should have included the mounting hardward in the picture but I'll show it later on the re-install.  This picture shows the driver, the rubber gasket (re-usable) and the outer frame ring.  The parts separated by carefully applying pressure...pulling on the driver chassis while pushing the outer frame ring.  The rubber gasket held it snug but released fairly easy.


sonavor
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This picture shows preparing the 8 inch woofer for refoaming.  You can see a lot of debris from the old foam surround and glue.  It is important to get it all really clean prior to opening the dust cover (if you are going to shim).  Otherwise, small pieces of debris can fall into the voice coil.  I am planning on using shims for this project.  It will be my first time using the shim method.  So far I have been lucky in that my previous refoam projects (3 pairs of CX-100, 1 pair of CX-50, 1 pair of S55, 1 pair of S120.2 and 1 pair of RL140) all turned out great without using shims.  The RL140 woofers were the most difficult.  The tolerance is really tight.  I used a very low voltage on my frequency generator to sweep a 20Hz to 100Hz signal as I attached the surround to make sure there was no rubbing.  The S120.2 woofer (same 8 inch driver it appears as the MS150) was the easiest to refoam.  However, after reading several posts on Beoworld on the speaker refoam subject and seeing some of the good pictures posted of performing the shim method, I think it is time to try that method.  I can see that, at the very least, it takes the guess work out of the process.  I just didn't want to risk anything falling into the voicecoil while I was working.  But it is time to try it and I will be careful. 

I am going to clean up all four MS150 woofers before refoaming any of them.  I like getting all of the dirty work out of the way so I can get one step completely out of the way before going on to the next.


Søren Mexico
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sonavor:
I am going to clean up all four MS150 woofers before refoaming any of them.  I like getting all of the dirty work out of the way so I can get one step completely out of the way before going on to the next.

I like that, nice and clean, now glue the foam to the cone, before you cut the dust cap, and start shimming.

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sonavor
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I am working on cleaning up the other three bass drivers right now.  Tomorrow I will pick up some different thicknesses of plastic (acetate I believe it is called) for the shim process. I will have to be extra careful on cutting the dust cap on the 8 inch drivers because there are two leads going underneath.


sonavor
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It looks like I will only get one set of 8 inch and 10 inch drivers cleaned up today.  The 10 inch driver was more work to clean and prepare than the 8 inch driver.  Here is a picture of the 10 inch driver after removing it from the enclosure.  The 8 inch driver is actually heavier than than this 10 inch driver.


sonavor
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Here is a closer look at the 10 inch driver before cleaning. You can from the dust and insect remains that this speaker has not been in service for some time. In fact, on the spider underneath the cone I found a real, live spider. Kind of humorous. It is no longer a live spider.


sonavor
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The old glue on the metal frame was harder to scrape off.  The glue on the cone was also tricky as it wanted to pull up paper from the cone. I lost a small bit of paper but I didn't want the layer of old glue.  There was also glue that went over the edge of the cone to the back. I think I got it cleaned up pretty good in the end. The cone material is stiff all the way around and out to the edges.


sonavor
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This is the first speaker 10 inch woofer ready for the new surround...but I am going to remove and prepare the woofers from the other MS150 speaker first. I sanded out a couple of the rust patches of the speaker frame and hit it with a little semi-gloss black paint.


sonavor
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One last picture tonight.  I pulled the two woofer drivers out of the second MS150 cabinet. The 10 inch was just as easy as the first one to separate the driver from the gasket and frame.  The 8 inch was harder.  The gasket had been glued to the foam surround. The speaker was probably assembled before the surround and properly dried or someone just decided to glue the gasket. There was some oil on the side between the frame ring and the gasket so maybe someone before me had attempted to separate the pieces and gave up.  I was able to eventualy pry the pieces apart without destroying anything but the gasket has a few cracks. I think it will be okay. I don't think you can buy replacement gaskets like the one pictured can you? Anyway, these two drivers are out and ready to be prepped. 


Søren Mexico
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John I dont like glue on paint, IMO its better to glue directly on the steel surface.

Collecting Vintage B&O is not a hobby, its a lifestyle.

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