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Beogram 1202 and 3000 problems

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Peter8300
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Peter8300 posted on Wed, Jul 21 2021 10:28 AM

I have some weird problems with my BG 1202 and BG 3000, hope some of you can help.

1:
On my 1202 at records end the pickup arm is dragged somewhat violently back before lifting. I have isolated the problem to the cam wheel by exchanging it with the one from the 3000 and voila the issue is gone. Also put the one from the 1202 into the 3000 and then the problem is there instead. Switching around again and the problem is back to the 1202. The two cam wheels are identical to my eyes, see pictures below, the 1202 on the left, 3000 to the right.There's also pictures of the innards of the two decks, the 1202 is the one from 27. Aug. 1973 the 3000 from 4. Jan. 1974.

Click the pics to see them in full.


2:
The 3000 is running way to slow, the fastest I can get is around 22 RPM. When turning the brass stud driving the idler wheel with my fingers it runs quite slow but with the motor on it runs quite fast without the idler wheel engaged. Also the wheel that drives the belt is quite smaller than the one in the 1202 - see pictures.
Probably the motor needs some TLC but the difference in size of the belt wheels puzzles me.

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Dillen
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Dillen replied on Wed, Jul 21 2021 3:59 PM

The cam wheel was replaced during production.
Perhaps this was the reason.
Did you compare the other side as well?

Martin

Peter8300
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Dillen:

The cam wheel was replaced during production.
Perhaps this was the reason.
Did you compare the other side as well?

Martin

 

Bingo! There's a small protrusion in the cam wheel from the 1202 at the end of the blue arrow in the picture. Contemplating cutting it off and sand it smooth.
That's the only difference as far as I can tell.

But the strange thing is that it used to work just fine, so why would it all of a sudden stop working?

Also just checked my second 1202 and it has the exact same wheel with the protrusion and works like a charm. (fingers crossed no jinx)

What a conundrum but it gotta have something to do with the wheel.

Peter

Dillen
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Dillen replied on Wed, Jul 21 2021 7:48 PM

Well spotted - but nothing runs in that groove (it's a dead end).

The difference may be too minor to spot, and will most likely be in the form of a structure being rotated ever so slightly with relation to the stop/start points.

Martin

Peter8300
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Big problems, simple solutions!

I cleaned the cam wheel in soap and water earlier today but to no avail. Then 30 minutes ago I thought of cleaning the cobber "plates" on the cam wheel with isopropyl alcohol as they were a just a tiny tiny bit sticky and voila now it runs perfectly. It's the small things in life that matters Big Smile

So now on to the 3000 which is running to slow. Just did a quick and dirty clean and oil of the idler wheel assembly which helped quite a bit. Next I will disassemble it and do a more thorough cleaning and oil.

Another thing; Is it possible to clean the silent switch without taking everything apart?

Peter

Dillen
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Dillen replied on Thu, Jul 22 2021 2:05 PM

Yes, it's important NOT to lubricate the small cam arms. They MUST run dry and clean. They should be free to "rattle".

The muting switch can be given a shot of contact cleaner.
I use "Kontakt 60" for tasks where I cannot take things apart and then exercise the contact a dozen times or more.
Kontakt 60 evaporates almost entirely and leaves no sticky residue.

Martin

Peter8300
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Dillen:

Yes, it's important NOT to lubricate the small cam arms. They MUST run dry and clean. They should be free to "rattle".

The muting switch can be given a shot of contact cleaner.
I use "Kontakt 60" for tasks where I cannot take things apart and then exercise the contact a dozen times or more.
Kontakt 60 evaporates almost entirely and leaves no sticky residue.

Martin

Thanks but it seems like you would have to take everything apart to get to the switch right?

And BTW how do you take the electrical wires off the motor? They are rather stuck on mine.

Peter

Dillen
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Dillen replied on Thu, Jul 22 2021 3:50 PM

Peter8300:

it seems like you would have to take everything apart to get to the switch right?

Usually, it's right there in plain view. There are two types if I remember correctly.

Peter8300:

And BTW how do you take the electrical wires off the motor? 

You don't.
You disconnect them at the screw terminals.

Martin

 

Søren Mexico
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If your muting switch is this type, check here but try Martins contact spray first

Collecting Vintage B&O is not a hobby, its a lifestyle.

Peter8300
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Søren Mexico:

If your muting switch is this type, check here but try Martins contact spray first

Thank you Søren, I did see your great post about this, but I was hoping there would be a simpler solution :-) I'll try the contact spay first.

Peter

Peter8300
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Goddammit! Next problem. I wanted to adjust the tonearm to be parallel on a perfectly fine working BG1202 but something went wrong. The tonearm dropped about 10 cm from the platter and it wouldn't go back up. Turned the deck around, nothing to see, the cam wheel in the right position. Turned it around again and the arm fell out of it's socket. Apparently I didn't secure the screw enough or something! Anyway I can put it back on but now the lift plate is loose and no matter what I do I can't get it firm again. Have I dropped a part that's now missing? Can some of you very wise people give me some advise here.

Peter

 

Søren Mexico
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If you dont have the manual, get one. here a pic from the manual

Collecting Vintage B&O is not a hobby, its a lifestyle.

Peter8300
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Thanks Søren, I actually have an original service manual in Danish but somehow it slipped my mind to take it out. Regardless I still have no idea why the lift plate is loose... Will investigate further, maybe just take the whole damn thing apart build it up again or not...!

Peter

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