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Beolab without a remote.

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Mortattoo
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Mortattoo posted on Wed, Jun 24 2020 3:28 PM

Hi Guys,

I have been gifted a couple of things of late that I just have no idea what i am doing with. Seems this lockdown has prompted people to trash a bunch of useful things that I can play with but i have no idea where to start!

Amongst the highlights,I have a Beolab 3500 and a Beolab 2000. I have no remote control or any cables with these.

I am thinking of a project to turn the 3500 (first) into a stand alone bluetooth and wifi speaker. (Can't even figure out how to get into the 2000 without a can opener or maybe dynamite)

I have searched and read a fair few subjects and queries on the forum but, it would appear, that a remote is needed for all of them. Is that the case? (Either that or i can't quite find the right keywords for the searches!)

I was planning on hacking a couple of cables together to a breakout board and to run it through a esp32 to give me connectivity or maybe a Rpi  (haven't decided yet as, if i can't get it to work "stand-alone", it will be a pointless exercise)

Can anyone shed any light on whether or not i can just bypass the funtions of the remote and hard wire in? Any advise or suggestions gratefully received! (totally new to playing with audio stuff really, so please be gentle).

 

Thanks,

 

Mort

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Jaffrey2230
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Hi neither one of these speakers come with remotes. You can reach out to Steve at Sounds Heavenly to provide cables that would work with your intended set up.

B&O in my life 😊: 

 

  • Beolab 8002 + Beolab 2 + Beosound Core with Essence Remote (Office)
  • Beolab 6000 + Beolab 11 + Beosound Core with Essence Remote (Bedroom)
  • Beoplay A9 Mk2 (Living Room)
  • Beosound 1 with wireless dock (Portable)
  • Beosound Balance (Dining)
  • Beoplay H95 (Focused listening, travel)
  • Beoplay H9 (3rd gen) (retired)
  • Beoplay P6 (Portable)
  • Beotime wall clock (hallway entrance)
  • BMW X5 50i with B&O Audio Package (Commute/drive)

 

 

 

Stoobietoo
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I think you will find it very difficult to get any sort of sensible use out of the speakers without a remote as they are both made to be part of a Masterlink system. The Beolab 3500 definitely has no local control. The Beolab 2000 does have volume control but little else.

It is correct that Steve can most likely provide cables for what you are hoping to do, but I think his solutions require the remote control to initiate the speakers. 

I think people have had more luck with using the Beolab 3500 as a stand alone speaker than the Beolab 2000. 

Stoobie 

Mortattoo
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Ahhh okay, thanks for the replies.

I have found the service manual for the 3500 and (if i can figure out what the different labels actually mean) I can try and hack it from there.

Having almost no experience with audio stuff, the labelling is pretty tough to "guess". But, at the end of the day, there are only 14 pins to each side so there must be a way of figuring out which pins do what and wiring an interface for it to be usable.

The power side is pretty straight forward (I am an electrical tech) but the noise side is a very interesting and fun mystery to me!

 

Thanks, again. Wish me luck!!

 

Mort

Stoobietoo
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If you wanted to invest a little,  you could make a Masterlink system for both speakers without a B&O HiFi or TV (which usually drive a Masterlink system) by using a Beolink convertor and B&O remote control. It will be a wired setup but you can add your choice on music input device to connect to the convertor with the appropriate cable. So you can have a Bluetooth input or a streamer depending on the device you choose to attach.

Google "Beolink convertor as Audiomaster" . You should find quite a lot of info. You will have to run Masterlink cable between the speakers and to the Beolink convertor but the actual setup would be stand alone wireless. A Raspberry Pi would be an ideal thing to connect as you can then have Bluetooth or WiFi streaming. 

Stoobie 

BenSA
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BenSA replied on Thu, Jun 25 2020 12:35 PM

I use the Beolab 3500 as a tv sound bar for my parents. You need a beolink 1611 converter box and a remote. Then you can plug in an aux source (or bluetooth) into the converter box and you will be able to control the Beolab 3500 with a remote. You will also have access to all the sound controls of the Beolab 3500 such as bass, treble etc.Works very well. 

Mortattoo
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Hi Guys,

 

Thanks again for the advice. Unfortunately (due to collapse of the industry i work in, hopefully temporary!) I don't have much in the way of money to throw at this project. I do, however, seem to have a nice amount of time! Funny how those two rarely go together, ha ha!

 

I appreciate the quality of these pieces of equiptment and i fear i won't do them justice BUT I am going to have to try and find work arounds for these to get them up and running. Lucky for me I love hacking things and have enough of a stash of electronics/micro processors/SBC to at least make the attempt.

As a side note, is there such a thing as a 2000 service manual? I have found one for the beolink convertor and the 3500 but the 2000 is pretty hard to find, if it even exists!

 

Cheers,

 

Mort

 

Mortattoo
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PS. Oh dear, i appear to have fallen down a rabbit hole here.....now looking at the possible IR codes for these things and that is a slippery slope!  Smile

 

Stoobietoo
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Ahhh, you've fallen down there have you? I've spent ages trying to research B&O IR control.  I've been trying to use a Raspberry Pi with LIRC to be a universal remote so I can control all my "stuff"  with the Beo 4. What a mine field. The Beo remotes work at 455 kHz and that's the issue. 

Some remotes like the Philips Pronto and some Logitech remotes can learn and send Beo codes but you can spend a fortune down that route when just buying a Beo 4 would be better.

You have two very usable, good quality speakers and it would be a shame to tinker too much and break them if you don't know what you are doing. Believe you me, if they could be made to work without the Beo 4/ BeoLink 1000 remotes, someone on here would have done it by now.

Where abouts are you as I may have a Masterlink cable I no longer use that you can have.

Stoobie 

Mortattoo
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Yep, it really is a proper hole to fall in too! I have a few leads on how to get it to work but will have to see if it actually gets there or not! I will let you all know if i get it to behave, after all I actually only NEED it to switch on, choose a source and switch off again. I mean, how hard can it be... (i am already laughing at myself for that one, feel free to join in!)

 

Thank you for the kind offer of the cable, I am in Bristol and if you really have no use for it I would be grateful to add it to the setup!

 

Thanks,

 

Mort

 

 

 

 

Stoobietoo
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Mortattoo:

...after all I actually only NEED it to switch on, choose a source and switch off again. I mean, how hard can it be... (i am already laughing at myself for that one, feel free to join in!

Really, really easy with a Beo4

Stoobietoo
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I have just bought one of these remotes. Systemline ARC7 (also available as LRN7). They are discontinued but sometimes available on auction sites. It is a learning remote for all makes including B&O. It learns from a Beo remote and can send the correct frequency signals. So far it is working brilliantly. I've had it a week and now I have one good looking, heavy aluminium remote for all my IR stuff.

It has a USB connector on the end and can be programmed on the PC to do macros. I paid £50 as it was unopened box. There were others for around £25/£30. If you went down that line, I'd happily learn all the buttons from my Beo4 and email you the configuration to use controlling your speakers. 

We are just having renovations done (halted due to COVID-19) so when I know which cables are surplus I'll let you know. We are in Exeter and get up to Bristol now and again so could drop them in. They will be fairly short pieces with a Masterlink plug on one end.  Really easy to connect up as part of a system,.

Stoobie 

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