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LG GX + Stage is here, some initial feedback

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moxxey
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South West, UK
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moxxey posted on Mon, Jun 15 2020 9:19 AM

Firstly, photo to follow. Not quite fully set it all up yet.

LG GX 55" + Stage + BeoRemote arrived Saturday. First impressions? Picture quality is simply stunning, especially for 4K-sourced movies and content. HD looks good, too.

Surprisingly the TV has a fairly decent speaker. Indeed, it's so decent sometimes I can't tell if the Stage is on or the TV speaker when watching something like the news and other regular TV.

Apps are good. So good I've realised I won't need the Apple TV. You get the Apple TV app, Netflix, Prime Video and other apps I use.

But, some less good news...

- Stage sometimes doesn't turn on with the TV. Anyone have any ideas on this? Very frustrating.

- BeoRemote, as expected, doesn't work with the TV yet. No access to the B&O app on the LG Appstore.

- No UK catch-up apps! No iPlayer, no All 4, ITV Hub, nothing. Incredible.


All in all though, thoroughly recommended.

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Jaffrey2230
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Washington DC
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I live in a high-rise building and the walls are all plaster walls and steel frame (so you have to use the toggle bolts on plaster since you can't drill into the steel frame) and it's very common to see 65 inch and larger TVs mounted directly to the wall. I am assuming some of the wall mounted storage units (like the ones in the kitchen)  are probably much heavier than even a TV so if those stay on, a TV should as well). My 2 cents worth....

My B&O Home: 

 

  • Beolab 8002 + Beolab 2 + Beosound Core with Essence Remote (Office)
  • Beolab 6000 + Beolab 11 + Beosound Core with Essence Remote (Bedroom)
  • Beoplay A9 Mk2 (Living Room)
  • Beosound 1 with wireless dock (Portable)
  • Beosound Balance (Dining)
  • Beoplay H95 (Focused listening, travel)
  • Beoplay H9 (3rd gen) (retired)
  • Beoplay P6 (Portable)
  • Beotime wall clock (hallway entrance)
  • Beoremote X (poor man's Halo Big Smile)

 

 

 

trackbeo
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Only 1.5 cents...  because those kitchen cabinets in commercial construction high-rise are screwed into furring strips (often 6" wide ripped plywood pieces) which are themselves screwed between the metal studs, behind the flange (the drywall is screwed into the front side of the studs' flanges), at designated heights above the floor, specifically for cabinet installers.  (Sometimes it's done in the bathroom too, for towel bars.)  So kitchen cabinets have extra planning & material holding them up.

Molly bolts are excellent but make sure you buy for the proper thickness of the drywall.  If not deep enough, the behind-the-wall portion digs thru the paper backing of the drywall, weakening it.  If too deep, the pre-formed metal crimps don't angle against the backside but waggle around 1/4" in space.  The dig-out of too-short Molly bolts is the same problem you get with toggle-bolt wings if you tighten them down too much.  However toggle bolts can, if properly installed, support greater weight than Mollys.  Toggle-bolts also work better when there is extra thickness that you can't buy a proper depth Molly for.  

This problem is why many professional installers switched to Toggler anchors  -- *NOT* the little Toggler SnapSkru self-drilling jobbies from Home Depot, but the 3" long Toggler SnapToggles, which have a pair of fixed zip-ties pulling the front flange to the rear toggle.  You can carelessly just yank on the ties to get the flange seated without fear of digging out the back.  This is important because "typical" installers are sometimes inexperienced and always in a big hurry and use a power screwdriver to tighten down regular toggle bolts, which can not only dig in but can start whirling around behind the wall if not held back properly.

Zip-Togglers are great, but I still chose to off-center my BV10 wall bracket by 1" just to hit an actual pre-existing wood stud!  When you lift that sucker and consider the angled force rotated out from the wall, you just won't trust some crappy piece of thin metal or "engineered" plastic...  But for a flat mounting of a modern lightweight panel, this would not be an issue.  I should probably have ripped down my drywall to add a stud and do it right but I was lazy and in a hurry.

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