Hi.
I am having some issues with the picture - it is pulsating. It shows good quality picture for about 3 seconds at the time, then loses it for a fraction of a second, and then the cycle starts again.
I have tried to change resolution, but it has no effect on this.
The AppleTV is 3rd generation A1427, and works perfectly with another TV. The Beovision is type 9311. It is connected via HDMI-DVI-cable with no adapters.
I have not yet connected the sound and bought the converter, because I luckily started testing first if I could get picture through.
What could be wrong?
Have you tried cycling through all the ATV3's resolutions? Press the MENU and UP button (on the remote) for 6 seconds, and the ATV3 will cycle through all resolutions at 20 second intervals. Press PLAY to keep the one that you want.
Otherwise, it could be an HDCP (high-bandwidth digital content protection) problem - non-HD ready TVs will not usually accept an HD input with HDCP. The HD audio extractor that I use (for ATV4 into BV26) has the added benefit of stripping out the HDCP, so the TV does not have any problems with the ATV outputs.
(EDIT: This is the extractor that I use: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00NAJ4UM2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
I would try another HDMI source and see if it does the same thing.
I had a similar issue with connecting AppleTV to a BV6-23 with the same adaptor - in the end concluded that it didn't have the HDMI board - also what mark of 7-32 is it as others maybe able to help further define the problem.
Is your TV HD Ready?
http://bogo.custhelp.com/app/answers/answer_view/a_id/2646/~/which-bang-%26-olufsen-televisions-qualify-as-hd-ready%3F
Serial number min. 19135130 or upgraded with a special kit in the past….?
Ralf
Living Room: Beosystem 4, Beolab 7-2 (Center), Beolab 9 (Fronts), Beolab 8000 (Rears), no Subwoofer. Screen: Sony KD-85XH9096Dining Room: Beosound Essence MK II with Beolab 4000 on stands, fed by Amazon Echo Show 8Home Cinema: Beosystem 4, Beolab 7-4 (Center), Beolab 1 (Fronts), Beolab 4000 (Rears). Projector: Sony VPL-HW55Home Office: Beosystem 3, Beolab 7-4, Beolab 5000, Screen: Sony KD-55XH9005 on Beovision 7-40 stand, ML to Beosound 9000 MK3 and Beosound 5/Beomaster 5 (1 TB SSD version)Bedroom: Sony KD-65XH9077, Beosound Essence MK II with Beolab 6002 and Beolab 11 (all white, wall-mounted)
In storage: Beolab 5000/Beomaster 5000 (1960s).
Guy:Have you tried cycling through all the ATV3's resolutions? Press the MENU and UP button (on the remote) for 6 seconds, and the ATV3 will cycle through all resolutions at 20 second intervals. Press PLAY to keep the one that you want.
Tried, but it pulsated on everyone of them.
Guy:Otherwise, it could be an HDCP (high-bandwidth digital content protection) problem - non-HD ready TVs will not usually accept an HD input with HDCP. The HD audio extractor that I use (for ATV4 into BV26) has the added benefit of stripping out the HDCP, so the TV does not have any problems with the ATV outputs.
My cable is this: https://www.belkin.com/us/p/P-AV10089/ The description says that it would fit to use with for example MacBooks, and it would not have audio in it - does matter? In any case this extractor sounds handy..
Andrew:I would try another HDMI source and see if it does the same thing.
It was connected with this to Mac Mini, and it did not pulsate. However I could not watch for example Amazon Prime with it, because there was some sort of restriction regarding to the resolution of the setup. Everything else worked but Prime.
kallasr: Is your TV HD Ready? http://bogo.custhelp.com/app/answers/answer_view/a_id/2646/~/which-bang-%26-olufsen-televisions-qualify-as-hd-ready%3F Serial number min. 19135130 or upgraded with a special kit in the past….? Ralf
It is less than that I am afraid. I was told earlier that it would be HD-ready. You think this might be the reason for the pulsating? It seems however that ATV has been successfully connected to older models than this or have I misunderstood something?
kallasr:Serial number min. 19135130 or upgraded with a special kit in the past….?
How to check if it has been upgraded with that kit?
Guy: Otherwise, it could be an HDCP (high-bandwidth digital content protection) problem - non-HD ready TVs will not usually accept an HD input with HDCP. The HD audio extractor that I use (for ATV4 into BV26) has the added benefit of stripping out the HDCP, so the TV does not have any problems with the ATV outputs. (EDIT: This is the extractor that I use: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00NAJ4UM2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
I bought one, and it worked - I have working AppleTV on non HD-ready 7-32. =) Thanks.
The extractor has a mini-USB-USB-wire, but no power source was in the package as the guide stated. I tried to connect one, but it had no impact - what is it for?
Another issue: Now if I would like to connect a digital TV-receiver, how would that be possible? Scart seems to be useless, for the picture quality was too low as I tested with an older receiver.
I think I have the same configuration,: Apple TV 4 bv7-32! HDMI goes direkt to The DVl plug
I tryed the converter:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00NAJ4UM2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I've got no picture and no sound!
Then I try this converter:
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B07FX6C7TP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And have a good HD picture and good sound.
TOH:The extractor has a mini-USB-USB-wire, but no power source was in the package as the guide stated. I tried to connect one, but it had no impact - what is it for?
This USB port is for extern Power and just be connect to a 5Volt powersupply!
Best regards
wilfried
TOH: I bought one, and it worked - I have working AppleTV on non HD-ready 7-32. =) Thanks. The extractor has a mini-USB-USB-wire, but no power source was in the package as the guide stated. I tried to connect one, but it had no impact - what is it for? Another issue: Now if I would like to connect a digital TV-receiver, how would that be possible? Scart seems to be useless, for the picture quality was too low as I tested with an older receiver.
I'm glad that it works, but it is strange that it works without the power connection! As explained above, I use the supplied usb cable to connect to a spare iPhone power plug, and if I disconnect this it stops working (the picture disappears)! I can only assume that yours is getting power over the hdmi input - according to hdmi spec pin 18 is supposed to supply 5V at up to 50ma.
With regard to adding a DTV receiver, I actually use SCART on mine and it works fine (although not as good as ATV). To get the best (for SCART) picture you need to make sure that the DTV receiver is outputting RGB (use the receiver's settings menu), and that this is connected to one of the TV's SCARTS that accepts RGB - they may all do, I am not sure.
Otherwise, and for the best picture, you could simply add a simply HDMI 2-to-1 switch before the audio extractor. Something like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Splitter-ABLEWE-Aluminum-Bidirectional-Blu-Ray-Player-Black/dp/B07SR1S2JL/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=hdmi+2+to+1&qid=1575543607&sr=8-5
EDIT: Or you could try something like this that both switches and extracts the audio (although I am not sure if it removes the hdcp): https://www.amazon.co.uk/Converter-Extractor-Optical-Toslink-Support/dp/B073TXX3KV/ref=pd_cp_107_1/259-4841843-0724661?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B073TXX3KV&pd_rd_r=2aa8228d-b170-4a57-a154-350c746105aa&pd_rd_w=tzTAI&pd_rd_wg=SbKiu&pf_rd_p=90a1ae50-b353-4b88-b984-b1b8b30d3309&pf_rd_r=8SS8EKQ03C9V6JSP0CDX&refRID=8SS8EKQ03C9V6JSP0CDX&th=1