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A beomaster 6000

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Craig
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Craig posted on Wed, Jun 12 2019 7:05 PM

Following on from Peters BM8000 I have decided to take a look at this unit, came by way of Solderon (well I have to have something to occupy my time!) I'm not sure about these "modern day" pieces, prefer the metal and wood construction...and the micro-computer thing is also daunting, but they do look rather slick with the digital display.  


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sonavor
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This post I made last year shows what they look like taken apart. They are often heat fused shut so you have to break the seal. 

-sonavor

sonavor
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Here is another post on the dampers.

-sonavor

Dillen
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Drill a small hole, inject grease while rotating the damper spindle, melt or glue the hole shut?

Martin

Craig
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Craig replied on Thu, Jul 4 2019 12:32 PM

Martin

Thats quite a cracking bit of lateral thinking!

I'll try and drill a hole in what will be the top of the drum when it's in it's normal position to help reduce the possibility of leaking through the sealed up hole.

Craig

Craig
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Ok.….here we go, bored a 2mm hole in the side of the damper drum carefully so as not to damage the internal turbine blades.


Craig
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Managed to pump a reasonable amount into the hole before the air needed to be worked out in order to get more in, had I not been confident that there was still a fair amount in there anyway, because the paddle was still fairly stiff to rotate before I started, I would have been tempted to bore a second hole opposite the first to allow the displaced air to come out. I worked the air out with a wooden skewer and got a bit more in rotating the paddle all the time.


Craig
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Sealed the hole up with a blob of plastic epoxy...…..the damping is increased by some 25% or so....not massively but as I said it was quite firm when I started....however it had bled over the internals so some grease had clearly been lost.


sonavor
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My concern would be that the grease that liquified and leaked out was due to a deterioration of the product. I have seen that in a number of these devices and at the same time have some that are still perfectly intact. I think it is related to the environment the units have been exposed to. Similar to some Beocord 800x-9000 having worn belts while others have belts that have deteriorated into a black glue substance.

Hopefully your fix will work fine but I have to wonder about the state of the original damping grease that was still inside. In the end it isn't critical to the Beomaster working. You will just need to keep an eye on any leakage in the future.

Still, an interesting solution and I enjoyed watching the implementation.

-sonavor

Craig
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Well.....pro's and con's I suppose....if things don't go well with the damper all I've done is drill a 2mm hole in the case and plug it up, time will tell. Got the control panel removed, awkward exercise depressing the tabs with enough force to release them but not too much to break them ;¬)


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sonavor
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Craig:

Well.....pro's and con's I suppose....if things don't go well with the damper all I've done is drill a 2mm hole in the case and plug it up, time will tell. Got the control panel removed, awkward exercise depressing the tabs with enough force to release them but not too much to break them ;¬)

Haha, yes a lot of these repairs have pro's and con's. 

If you think that panel was awkward wait until you remove the display piece to get to what is under that. It is another exercise in carefully navigating some plastic tabs.

-sonavor

 

BEOVOX141
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Craig:

Ok.….here we go, bored a 2mm hole in the side of the damper drum carefully so as not to damage the internal turbine blades.

Hi Craig

It looks like a delicate operation, how did you make sure chips from the drilling did not end up inside the damper?

The damper is a fascinating (and without a doubt expensive) piece of engineering, and very typical for the way B&O approached solutions, sometimes perhaps forgetting the benefits of the KISS principle.

Thanks for sharing the journey, I have a 6000 waiting to be brought back to life, so any tips and tricks a can collect before the surgery improves the chance for a speedy recovery of the patient. Big Smile

 

Craig
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The answer to that is that I'm not sure no swarf made it into the internals, on the balance of probability some will have, will there be damage as a result possibly but I would say unlikely.

Seperated the pushbutton panel from the switch assembly...


Craig
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Lots of dead skin cells and a crumpled corner of the sticky back plastic...….


Craig
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As its the standby button I don't know if it was actually working prior to removal......the switch clicks in and out to applied pressure so I suspect it worked fine….however as I need to do something about it I eased it back to reveal the contacts beneath


Craig
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the flexible contacts did have a small amount of dirty dust on them which cleaned right of with a cotton bud and some alcohol.....thing is do I really need to take them all out? I could do so and gold plate them, but is it really necessary? I will ponder for a while....I don't think it would do any harm. 


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