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Beocord 6500: drawer not moving

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KolfMAKER
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KolfMAKER posted on Fri, Feb 8 2019 4:56 PM

I have recently gotten a Beocord 6500 (type 4936). Unfortunately, the drawer does not respond to pushing the open/close contact button on the left of the front panel.

Putting power on works, alle lights on the front panel light up. When pushing the drawer button, there is no movement, and also I do not hear any parts moving/trying to move.

I am not familiair (yet) with the mechanical system behind this. So I am looking for tips, pictures or videos that help me solve this issue.

Anyone who can help? 

 

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solderon29
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There were four plastic transit locks in the bottom case of the machine originally,but I imagine that they have been removed?

The drawer mechanism is driven by a motor and belt.The motor may have seized,although it's unusual,but the belt may have broken or stretched?

The drawer runs on rubber rollers which may have become distorted it the machine has been out of use for some time.This may prevent the drawer from moving,but you should hear the loading motor running.

You will need to dismantle the machine and lift the main pcb to investigate further.

Another possibility,is that the front sensor switch is not making proper contact,if the machine has not been reassembled correctly at some stage?

If the drawer functions when you have removed the top case,this would be worth investigating.

Nick

 

 

KolfMAKER
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Thanks Nick for your response and suggestions!

Here's my response:

Four plastic transit locks: They have come with the deck and are parked in the four slots at the back. I am quite sure that the former owner has once transported the deck without using these transportation locks. I could also see that from the front panel, as it was not aligned straigth and the 5 pins (at the bottom of the front panel) were not aligned in the frame holes. I did manage in the meantime to get that all alligned and back in position.

Drawer mechanism: I have just succeeded in dismantling the casing, cassette operation panel and front panel. After that I have taken out the 6 red plastic locks to be able to move the main PCB up. And have access to the bottom of the drawer including the drawer motor and wheel.

Drawer motor & belt: I haven't seen yet that the drawer is driven by a motor and belt. I am not sure if there is a belt in this system. So far it seems, the motor drives the big black wheel directly. (See picture )

 

My questions now:

  1. The drawer motor is a 16 volt motor. Could I do any harm if I try if the motor runs with a 9 volt battery? (It makes sense I think to test the motor this way. If the motor runs, then the problem is not the motor but could be the touch button)
  2. Is it necessary to keep the flatcable of the operation panel attached to the main-PCB, or can I do without that connection (to keep the operation panel out of the way)

 

Beobuddy
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As Nick mentions, the big gearwheel is driven by a large belt.

You cab take out the complete gear by removing just 1 screw. The motor and the gearwheel can then be inspected.

solderon29
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If the belt is intact and in place,you can drive the mechanism from an external supply,but disconnect the motor from the main pcb so as not to damage the drive circuit.

If you connect a meter to the pcb connections for the motor,you should be able to read the drive voltage when you press the drawer  "open"switch  zone

Nick

KolfMAKER
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Thanks Nick!

I have taken the whole motor+belt+gearwheel and disconnected it from the PCB. This also enabled me to check the belt. It is intact and the tension is good.

As this is the safe way to put some power to the motor, I did with a 9 volt battery. After connection, it immediately started spinning. When changing the polarity, I could also see that the motor started spinning in the reverse direction. So motor and belt are both fine and working.

Somehow, the motor is not getting power when the drawer eject is being pushed. My next step is to check if the contact of the drawer release button is making proper contact. I checked how to pieces of the front panel are attached to each other. I haven't yet found a way to get clear access to the touch button on the left for drawer eject. So if you have an advise, let me know.

 

 

solderon29
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Can you switch the machine on and off via the stand-by button on the front of the machine?

You can get to the back of pcb 4(the front display pcb)by removing the three recessed Philips head screw's in the top of the moulding,then dropping the assembly forward.

Investigate the soldering at connector P7 on that pcb.

Nick

KolfMAKER
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Yes, the stand-by button on the front panel is properly working.

If I push the eject button, then I can hear a click and feel a kind of physical switch. But again, I am not sure if it works properly.

 

solderon29
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Check the soldering on P7(pcb4)anyway.

Otherwise check around IC12 on the main pcb.This is the driver chip for the drawer motor.

You should see some activity at pins 6&7 when you "click" the drawer button.

Nick

KolfMAKER
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Thnx Solderon!

I checked the soldering on PCB 4. It is in good shape making good contact between the button pins and the PCB trails.

Concerning IC 12, which chip is that on the main PCB?

(I have attached an overview picture of the PCB)


KolfMAKER
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Correction. I just found IC 12. It's the one in 'portrait' in the bottom right corner.

KolfMAKER
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Correction. I just found IC 12. It's the one in 'portrait' in the bottom right corner.

KolfMAKER
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I found there are two IC 12's. One on the large (upper) PCB, and one on the smaller PCB that's located underneath the large one.

Someone advised me to tip all soldering points of IC12. So I did with both IC 12's I found. This did not solve the drawer not opening issue.

Also I should add that besides the front panel control for opening/closing the drawer, also the controls for Play?FF/Rew do not work.

 

Any suggestions?

solderon29
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Ah,that's significant!!!

Those functions all share the same data route from the keyboard to the processor.

Check the soldering on the connector P13 on the main pcb.

Nick

KolfMAKER
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Thanks solderon29!

I checked connector P13 (connecting the cassette control panel to PCB 4), but also connector P7 (connecting the front panel to PCB 4). Both connector's soldering looks good. (See picture of PCB4 bottom)

Besides, I also measured all wires in both flat cables, just to make sure there are no broken wires in the flat cables. I measured from connector point allhe way to the soldering point on the PCB. All wires in both flat cables are fine.

Would you have another suggestion?


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