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Beolink 7000 back light and recapping.

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BO
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BO posted on Thu, Nov 22 2012 9:05 PM

I received a package with some components from Conrad.

 


My Beolink 7000 with very weak back-light.



Assistant

 

1. Remove the two screws

 

2. Remove the cap.

 

3. Remove the last two screws.

 

4. Remove glass panel, don´t touch the inside. Be aware that the small four corner nuts don´t fall out.

 

5. Test the voltage. Should be around 130V

 

6. Disconnect display pcb from the other units. Be gentle with the ribbon cables. 

 

New electrolumiscent film.

 

Testing

 

7. Slide fixing rails to the left and remove them to release the LCD front frame. 

 

8. Remove front frame

 

9. Unsolder old film.

 

10. Unfold LCD display. Try not to touch the surfaces, especially the inside. Be very careful with the "rubber" profiles still on the glass. Those are the actual leads from the PCB to the LCD, if the will be miss positioned or contaminated with dirt dust or grease you will get an improper or faulty readout from the display.

 

11. Remove the luminescent foil. It's attache with two stripes of double sided tape on the backside.

 

Old and new.

 

12. Mark the size. Assure that you get the lead in the same position.

 

13. Cut it to correct size.
 

 

Ready for assembling.

 

14. Mount the new foil in position with two stripes of double sided tape on the back side. put the leads through the holes in the PBB.

 

15. Solder and reassemble in opposite order as the disassembling.

 

16. Testing....I do believe it's working...good...
 

 

17. Adjust the LCD contrast.
 

 

Potentiometer for contrast adjustment of the LCD.

 

18. And now the recapping, unsolder and remove tin housing. The five now visible capacitors should be replaces. The two violet ones to the left, the two smd´s in the middle and the green one to the right. This has been described in other threads  so I won't go deep into it.
 

 

19 Prepare the new components.

 

 

20. Soldered in place.
 

 

21. All components changed. Be careful with the small smd´s, the can be tricky to solder due to its small size. I also changed all other electrolytic capacitors. Not necessary now but just precaution.
 

 

22. Reassembled and working perfect again.Smile
 

 

 

//Bo.
A long list...

All Replies

Leslie
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Leslie replied on Fri, Dec 21 2012 10:51 AM

Some don't but hey, it's Christmas and nothing happened today (yet)!

Brengen & Ophalen

MartinM
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Disassembled my next BL7000. Here is the reason why I remove the CPU board and replace the battery.

I've desoldered one leg and bent the battery back on the other leg exposing the underside of the battery. As can be seen, the battery has started to leak.

 

Close up view of the leaking battery. Last thing you want is acid on the very small traces on the pcb. Even if the battery looks ok, I still replace it given its age.

Leslie
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Leslie replied on Sat, Dec 22 2012 10:51 PM

That's a great shot! Never knew that this could happen! Will check mine(s) if it has the same issue.

Waiting for Conrad partsSmile

What type of battery is this and how can you replace a new one since this has been soldered. Is it save to do soldering on a new battery?

Brengen & Ophalen

MartinM
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The battery is a Sanyo Lithium CR2430 (24.5mm diameter by 3mm thick). I bought some replacement batteries locally that have the solder tabs. I definitely wouldn't recommend soldering directly onto this type of battery.

Take lots of care when desoldering the battery and use an ESD safe area if you can.

 

MartinM
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I'm in the process of cap, battery and backlight replacement of my other BL7000. I've taken some photos here that I missed with the other one regarding the display alignment.

Display flipped up and backlight removed, ready for replacement. You can see the contact pads on the display and the black contact pads on the pcb.

 

Once the new backlight has been cut to size and fitted, fold down the display and ensure the contacts line up as per next photo.

 

You can see the contacts on the display edge that must line up with the contacts just visible below.

 

Dillen
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Dillen replied on Sun, Dec 23 2012 9:19 AM

Very nice thread, good job and very good photos !  Yes - thumbs up

One thing though; Please do this repair ONLY in an ESD-safe environment.
There's a lot of sensitive circuits and components in a Beolink 7000 and it will only
take the slightest static discharge to do permanent damage.

I am aware that far from all people have a complete prof. ESD-safe electronic workshop at their disposal but, fortunately,
less will usually do.
I would recommend a good wrist-strap connected to a grounding point in the Beolink 7000 as a minimum.
One of the ESD field service-kits available on Ebay and elsewhere would be next step up and definitely worth its small
cost if you are going to do more repairs of this type or similar.
Something like this (random pick at Ebay): http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ESD-FIELD-SERVICE-KIT-ANTI-STATIC-MAT-WITH-LEADS-AND-WRIST-STRAP-ANTISTATIC-/290805486759#ht_297wt_448

Martin

tournedos
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Dillen:
I am aware that far from all people have a complete prof. ESD-safe electronic workshop at their disposal but, fortunately,
less will usually do.

There are a couple of things that will help as well:

  • Avoid doing the work in very cold weather, as the dry central heating air will help to accumulate static electricity (this in a Nordic context: +5°C and constant rain is not cold weather...)
  • Don't wear a synthetic sweater or other "electric" clothing (cotton is good)
  • Keep the cats well away Big Smile

Once you hear the static electricity, it is up to thousands of volts already. Old MOS technology integrated circuits and transistors may only need 50 volts or so to sustain permanent damage without you noticing it at all.

This is an excellent thread Yes - thumbs up

PS never solder directly on lithium cells, if you value your vision!

--mika

MartinM
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Great advice. Also, I store any boards I'm not working on in anti-static bags. A computer shop is often a great source for these.

jumperger
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Hallo to all of you,

I'm new to this forum and I want to thank you for the very interesting reading.

I own a AV9000 for 21 years now, but as in 1992 I only had the money to buy control center TV and 2 beolab 8000 and beolink1000, I recently bought a beolink7000 on ebay.

As it must be the two way communication does not work, looking for information I found this thread. Thank you!

I want to order the caps from Conrad, but I'm asking myself if there are other caps in the Beolink 7000 that will also have to be replaced, even if they are not related to 2way-communication?

@BO

you are writing :

The five now visible capacitors should be replaces. The two violet ones to the left, the two smd´s in the middle and the green one to the right. This has been described in other threads  so I won't go deep into it.

I searched the forum for other threads, but I did not find any . Some infos were found on the Archived Forum, but the Links posted are dead.

Are there infos I did not find?

I will shortly tell you what are the problems with my BL7000

Battery-pack faulty -> already replace by myself

only 1-way communication

When the remote is lieing on the table it does not "stand-up" on wake-up from stand-by.

Settings are : "MOVE" auto

when I set move to manual and then press the move button the display stands up.

 

Perhaps you do have some tips and tricks for me

Thank's in advance

jumperger

Davedj
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Davedj replied on Wed, Nov 23 2016 9:39 AM

What are all the capacitors that need replacing? And what value are they?

Is there a service manual available at all?

 

I have already changed two capacitors ( 680uf - 25v and 220uf 16v) and it still reads no contact.

Weebyx
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Weebyx replied on Thu, Nov 24 2016 4:34 PM

Davedj:

What are all the capacitors that need replacing? And what value are they?

Is there a service manual available at all?

 

I have already changed two capacitors ( 680uf - 25v and 220uf 16v) and it still reads no contact.

https://plus.google.com/photos/112793489141580542769/albums/5532075977679022401?banner=pwa

 

/Weebyx

BO
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BO replied on Fri, Nov 25 2016 10:14 AM

MINI ELEC CAPACITOR 4,7UF 50V''-40/105 GR

SMD ELKO 22UF 16V 85ª STANDARD

RAD, EL CAP 105°C 6,8 µF 63V 5X11 RM2

 

RADIAL EL CAP 105°C 680 µF 25V10X19 R 

These are the ones I've changed.

//Bo.
A long list...

jamesbong
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So I currently own a BeoLink 7000 and I am having a problem on Step 5.

When I  test it to see it's voltage, nothing happens. [Image in the link below]

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BwCA79DC4kKvMEtjbzl1aS1vcmc

I noticed that you ordered some parts from Conrad, but they don't ship to America so I am stuck with nothing to do.

Can you suggest an alternative location I can order the capacitors from?

I have also tested my electrolumiscent film and it is working fine.

The same wires that are connected in Step 5 seem to have a short circuit, but the wires are not tangled up. [Image in the link below]

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BwCA79DC4kKvYjNNbE5JSnNZUHc

I was wondering what could be the problem for that and if there was a solution for it.

Weebyx
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Weebyx replied on Tue, Jun 13 2017 6:54 AM

jamesbong:

So I currently own a BeoLink 7000 and I am having a problem on Step 5.

When I  test it to see it's voltage, nothing happens. [Image in the link below]

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BwCA79DC4kKvMEtjbzl1aS1vcmc

I noticed that you ordered some parts from Conrad, but they don't ship to America so I am stuck with nothing to do.

Can you suggest an alternative location I can order the capacitors from?

I have also tested my electrolumiscent film and it is working fine.

The same wires that are connected in Step 5 seem to have a short circuit, but the wires are not tangled up. [Image in the link below]

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BwCA79DC4kKvYjNNbE5JSnNZUHc

I was wondering what could be the problem for that and if there was a solution for it.

Are you measuring alternating voltage at the backlight ? The voltage for backlight is approx. 110-130v AC, not DC.

Did the backlight work before you disassembled it, or was it completely dead ? I had one with a faulty SMD transistor that caused the backlight to not turn on. Also make sure that the flat cable on the back of the mirror cable, is attached correctly in the holder. Try to unlock it, and take it out and put it back in. This can also cause backlight to not turn on.

Regarding the "short circuit" this is not a short, it is just that you are measuring the connection between the AC transformer that provides the 110v AC.

/Jacob

 

jamesbong
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Weebyx:

jamesbong:

So I currently own a BeoLink 7000 and I am having a problem on Step 5.

When I  test it to see it's voltage, nothing happens. [Image in the link below]

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BwCA79DC4kKvMEtjbzl1aS1vcmc

I noticed that you ordered some parts from Conrad, but they don't ship to America so I am stuck with nothing to do.

Can you suggest an alternative location I can order the capacitors from?

I have also tested my electrolumiscent film and it is working fine.

The same wires that are connected in Step 5 seem to have a short circuit, but the wires are not tangled up. [Image in the link below]

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BwCA79DC4kKvYjNNbE5JSnNZUHc

I was wondering what could be the problem for that and if there was a solution for it.

Are you measuring alternating voltage at the backlight ? The voltage for backlight is approx. 110-130v AC, not DC.

Did the backlight work before you disassembled it, or was it completely dead ? I had one with a faulty SMD transistor that caused the backlight to not turn on. Also make sure that the flat cable on the back of the mirror cable, is attached correctly in the holder. Try to unlock it, and take it out and put it back in. This can also cause backlight to not turn on.

Regarding the "short circuit" this is not a short, it is just that you are measuring the connection between the AC transformer that provides the 110v AC.

/Jacob

 

Thank you for the quick response Jacob.

I am in need of this device working so hopefully you will be able to help me with fixing my problem.

I have measured the backliight with both AC and DC and neither have seemed to work out.

The backlight did not work on the device previously, but when I plug it into a 110v AC directly, I can see the backlight working.

I'm not sure what a "SMD transistor" so, it is possible you can specify what part of the device that is, and explain what it does?

I have dismantled every cable on my BeoLink 7000 and have plugged them back in, so I do not believe that this was the problem.

Thank you for clarifying that it was not a short circuit.

I had plugged in the 6v battery into the transformer and there seemed to be no reaction when I tested it.

I figured that either the transformer or the capacitors on the device are not functioning properly, is there any insight you can give me to this problem?

Is there a way to test if the transformer [in the picture below] is functioning properly?

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BwCA79DC4kKvZnY4QXRoRlVTdHhGY0tBMDlUdEpYSzJEVkpJ

Also, is it possible that you are able to give me the specifications of the transformer?

There seems to be no writings on the device itself to tell me what kind of transformer it is.

Thank you for taking the time to help me with this.

\James

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