I received a package with some components from Conrad.
My Beolink 7000 with very weak back-light.
Assistant
1. Remove the two screws
2. Remove the cap.
3. Remove the last two screws.
4. Remove glass panel, don´t touch the inside. Be aware that the small four corner nuts don´t fall out.
5. Test the voltage. Should be around 130V
6. Disconnect display pcb from the other units. Be gentle with the ribbon cables.
New electrolumiscent film.
Testing
7. Slide fixing rails to the left and remove them to release the LCD front frame.
8. Remove front frame
9. Unsolder old film.
10. Unfold LCD display. Try not to touch the surfaces, especially the inside. Be very careful with the "rubber" profiles still on the glass. Those are the actual leads from the PCB to the LCD, if the will be miss positioned or contaminated with dirt dust or grease you will get an improper or faulty readout from the display.
11. Remove the luminescent foil. It's attache with two stripes of double sided tape on the backside.
Old and new.
12. Mark the size. Assure that you get the lead in the same position.
13. Cut it to correct size.
Ready for assembling.
14. Mount the new foil in position with two stripes of double sided tape on the back side. put the leads through the holes in the PBB.
15. Solder and reassemble in opposite order as the disassembling.
16. Testing....I do believe it's working...good...
17. Adjust the LCD contrast.
Potentiometer for contrast adjustment of the LCD.
18. And now the recapping, unsolder and remove tin housing. The five now visible capacitors should be replaces. The two violet ones to the left, the two smd´s in the middle and the green one to the right. This has been described in other threads so I won't go deep into it.
19 Prepare the new components.
20. Soldered in place.
21. All components changed. Be careful with the small smd´s, the can be tricky to solder due to its small size. I also changed all other electrolytic capacitors. Not necessary now but just precaution.
22. Reassembled and working perfect again.
//Bo.A long list...
excellent - you are a LEGEND
BeoNut since '75
Now THAT'S what I called a workinstruction! My great compliments to you Bo
Please post others you did with your B&O gear (I know you did)
Brengen & Ophalen
Can you show us the BOM (Bill of Materials)?
BOM, I bought these from www.conrad.se but they ara aslo avalable from www.conrad.com with the same product id.
Produkt
Antal
Pris
Summa
LYSFOLIE VIT 112X87 MM [Product ID: 184030-I5] Leveransstatus: I lager
1 Styck
79:00 SEK
MINI ELEC CAPACITOR 4,7UF 50V''-40/105 GR [Product ID: 460508-I5] Leveransstatus: I lager
2 Styck
9:00 SEK
SMD ELKO 22UF 16V 85ª STANDARD [Product ID: 421509-I5] Leveransstatus: I lager
18:00 SEK
RAD, EL CAP 105°C 6,8 µF 63V 5X11 RM2 [Product ID: 445491-I5] Leveransstatus: I lager
3 Styck
27:00 SEK
RADIAL EL CAP 105°C 680 µF 25V10X19 R [Product ID: 445099-I5] Leveransstatus: I lager
Great post Bos00 !
Sorry, Can anyone help with how to get the "Red One line status display" repaired - Totally dead, but two way communication works great when programming Timers ?
Top job Bo, congrats, I actually lived in Halmstad from 73 to 81
Collecting Vintage B&O is not a hobby, its a lifestyle.
Søren Mexico: Top job Bo, congrats, I actually lived in Halmstad from 73 to 81
Interesting, I moved here -84. I bet you miss the rainy winters
Regards
Bo
Staggering! Wonderful job and beautifully presented. I am deeply impressed.
Peter
Peter: Staggering! Wonderful job and beautifully presented. I am deeply impressed.
Thanks
Hi,
I also have a couple of BL7000's that have fairly weak back lights. After reading this thread I decided to have a go at replacing the backlight as well as full recap and battery replacement on both BL7000's. I ordered a couple of backlights from Conrad and caps from Mouser. Followed the instructions in this thread and have successfully completed the replacement. Only tricky part was aligning the display contact pads with the contact pads on the PCB.
Top is the cold source backlight from Conrad. Lower is the Original B&O Backlight. Interestingly the backlight voltage on my Beolink measured about 95 volts. Yet to measure what it is on the other BL.
Picture below shows the display board and keyboard flipped up exposing the lower CPU board. Even though two way communication worked on this remote I decided to replace all the capacitors since I had the remote apart. Just as well as the IR area around the top of the display board had the tell tale fishy smell of the leaking SMD caps. My ESR meter will read up to 20 Ohms but it would not give a reading on the SMD caps! Amazing the comms still worked.
Lower CPU board removed and shows the Sanyo CR2430 battery. This measured around 3 volts but I decided to replace it with a new one considering it is 20 plus years old.
Beolink on left with new backlight. Difficult to photograph, but it is very bright and clear. Display looks washed out in photo but it is just the camera having difficulty with the two brightness contrasts. Photo does not do it justice. Beolink on right is next up for same treatment.
MartinM:I also have a couple of BL7000's that have fairly weak back lights. After reading this thread I decided to have a go at replacing the backlight as well as full recap and battery replacement on both BL7000's.
Very nice to see.
As you mentioned, aligning the contact pads are the delicate thing in this operation.
Great job MartinM, now I definetely will give it a try myself. Ordered the components at Conrad.
I have seven of those that needs new backlights so let's start with one first!
@Leslie,
I like your new profile picture.